Recently my timing belt broke and I had to replace it. I had the timing off 3 times then found an easier way to time the crankshaft and cams and finally it turned on. Only issue I'm having right now however is first off it took 2 tries to start it and it smelled like fuel badly, it has a rattling noise and struggled staying on so I had to give it gas until it could maintain itself running.

Is it possibly a bad water pump? It's not leaking but I heard sometimes they make bad noises when they go bad or a valve lash adjustment is needed or even bad Valves??

 

You did not say what engine this is. I am guessing the cam/s are out of time/or some of the valves may have contacted the pistons when the belt broke. I would recheck the cam timing.
Harold

 

^^ The engine you're working on would be nice. The fact that it struggled to stay running initially doesn't really concern me considering the engine was flooded. However, if at idle it's running very rough chances are when the belt broke some damage was done. Bad water pump? Well, how many miles are on the vehicle. The timing belt and water pump on a Honda should be replaced TOGETHER every 105,000 miles or 7 years. Whichever comes first.

-Amp

 

My apologies to a B18B. It's at around 204k miles so definitely should have changed it then. I plan on changing the water pump when I get home tonight to see if that hopefully resolves the issue I just didn't think it was needed unless it started leaking.

 

If you make the manual tensioner too tight it will howl. Get the belt on with the tensioner loose (all the slack towards the front), rotate the engine three teeth then tighten the tensioner.

-Amp

 

I was wondering how to rid of that slack since I had some in between the cams up top. Dammit I'll try that too then thanks!

 

Start at the crank and work your way up the tensioner and then from the intake cam gear to the exhaust cam gear. Watch the lines facing each other on the gears and make sure the crank stays still.

-Amp

 

Depending on what the RPM was when the belt broke it is a good bet that valves contacted pistons and damage was done.

I would pull the head and inspect the valves and top of pistons. 94

 

even at low rpm valves can be bent. i broke a belt at idle and bent every exhaust valve...honda engines are interference engines and have been for many years. when the belt breaks the valves always need to be checked at least with a leakdown test.

 

An easy way to check for possible damage without pulling the head is first do a compression test. If all 4 cylinders hold pressure you can be pretty confident you didn't damage anything.

If a cylinder or two do not hold pressure you can find out where the damage is by getting or making a pneumatic valve holder. I made mine from an old compression gauge. I took the gauge off and fit an air hose fitting to the gauge end of the hose.

You put whatever cylinder that doesn't hold pressure to TDC, hook up your pneumatic valve holder into the spark plug hole of that cylinder and pump 15 PSI into the cylinder while holding the crank in position. If you hear significant air flow through the exhaust or the intake, you have bent valves in the respective side. If you only hear it from the oil dipstick tube or the oil fill hole, let the crank go. If the piston doesn't shoot down or only moves down slowly (with all the spark plugs removed) then you have a damaged piston (The valves should be damaged too if the piston has a whole in it).

A leak down tester will provide you with the same info as the pneumatic valve holder but with the addition of how much loss you have in each cylinder.

 

Thank you guys for all your help seriously I've never gotten that many replies to solve an issue.

I checked the belt and since I wasn't tightening the belt tensioner pulley enough due to it being stripped, the belt was flopping around causing the noise but now it's good. Found out my axle had broken off too so replaced it and the car was good... But then the steering wheel started clanking hard and went from pointing straight with the wheels straight to the side. So since I had removed the power steering pump years ago for my B18 swap, the damage caught up since it was a PS rack instead of a manual so I think I have to replace my rack and pinion :/. On a dead stop when I steer the steering wheel jumps off so I'm guessing it's time to replace that whole part 😔.