I've watched many youtube videos on how to remove the pin from a harness connector in order to repair a broken wire. I also bought this special tool, but for the life of me, I cannot figure out how to get the pin out of this connector.

It is the wiring harness connector that goes between the front passenger door and the body of the car. I have two broken wires (power door lock and tweeter).

Can anyone help me with this?
Thanks,
Nate

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/uiwpqdmmy...mfyZzRuascwPZa

 

Took me 10 seconds to find this.
http://www.carolinahondas.com/instal...nda-plugs.html

 

Guess you have to know exactly what to google. I've tried these techniques, and I still can't get it out. I wish I had x-ray vision so I could see where the retainer clip is. I may just go to plan be and go around (actually through the connector) with another piece of wire.

Break out the hay baling wire and duct tape.

 

Then you're doing something extremely wrong.

And all I searched for was "depin honda connector".

 

Stupid me. I searched for "repairing terminal connector Honda." Guess we all can't be snarky geniuses.

 

When I went up to the Honda dealership to get the ATF fluid, I picked a technician's brain on how to get the terminal connector out. He was almost completely wrong. He did recommend the use of a large straight pin, but the where and how to get to the release was wrong.

Here's the pin I used.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3w2lbqlljpeh1jo/IMG_1901.JPG

 

For this connector, it took some trial and error, but I was able to repeatedly duplicate this procedure. Pull the secondary release on the connector out (a white tab on the bottom). Bend the pin in a slightly downward arc. Insert it this way all the way into the top hole, keeping it tight against the top. Run the tip of the pin against the bottom of the hole while you slowing withdraw it. You will feel a click as the tip of the pin passes over the top of the release. Insert the pin all the way. The pin should now be between the release and the terminal pin. Withdraw the terminal pin using light to moderate force.

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/lad18x9e2...yX4c_Wx_wNPt3a

 

I was able to pry open and uncurl the crimp tabs on the large connector pin and pick out all the broken copper strands. With the smaller connector pin, I could spread the insulation crimps, but could only make a small gap in the wire crimps using a small screwdriver and a hammer.

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/5vqnypjmo...IY9p0CTsgtvn6a

 

I cleaned all the grease out of the terminal pin using lacquer thinner, denatured alcohol, and compressed air, scratched up the surface of the metal, crimped in the wire on the pigtail, and soldered it. Lastly, I crimped down the insulation. I think it's a good repair.

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/erzsgmi4j...QBfAgc8kc3uN6a

On the smaller connector, I pushed the wire down into the gap I created with the flat head screwdriver and hammer and soldered it in place. Forgot to take a picture of that one, but its a solid repair, too.

Note: when soldering, make sure you heat the wire up to the melting point of the solder and touch the solder to the wire, not the soldering iron tip, otherwise you'll have a cold solder joint. It is helpful, however, to place a bead of melted solder between the tip and wire to facilitate the heat transfer, but melt the solder in with the solder touching the wire.

 

The last step in the repair is to solder the the pigtail to the harness. Make sure the finished length doesn't result in tension on the repaired connector pin. I positioned the connector the way it would sit plugged into the door and judged where to splice the wires accordingly.

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/5jhqvnbo6...6yNqzMquVb5oCa

I could have used an extra 1/8" on the upper wire, but it was a bitch to solder. Took two people. I think it will be fine.

 

Nice write up. I kept meaning to get to the door harness on my 97 CRV. Finally just sold it with the locks and mirror not working. Too many other projects.

 

From a former aircraft electrical technician.
Denatured Alcohol, maybe, on some plastics, but, never Lacquer Thinner.
Mineral Spirits is the safest for plastics and rubber boots.
That is what is in engine cleaner, which protects damage from the above.
If you really want to go high tech, use this product http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...ationMilitary/

 

Sorry for not making myself more clear. I cleaned the broken terminal pin after I removed it from the plastic connector. I know what lacquer thinner can do to plastic. Thanks for the link.