get the free motor..i would. i wish i could get over on a whole car..lol..i would do it

 

Hell yeah...J you still need to stick with the b16...n o need for competition.

 

Thanks for all the support guys.. Glad I'm not the only one that thinks this way.. I just spent $4k+ on a custom turbo, which was to be installed this week.. If it woulda happened after the turbo, I'd be up a creek...
Now I'll hopefully have a new motor to break in along with a turbo setup.

 

so getting my ecu chipped to a mugen was a bad idea then?? cuz i'm getting it back today.. i have a built block and built head.. running nitrous.. compression is at 10.2.. running 92 octane.. have a v-afc... so what to do now then? i don't race much.. i take long trips... bout 300 mile trips.. good idea or bad??

 

the reason why they disable the knock sensors is to do with aftermarket pistons. i guess they are called pistons skirts (don't know where i heard that) but they hit the sides of the cylinder walls and the computer thinks it is a knock and the ignition is then retarted and you loose power. also i am pretty sure that is not a good computer to run forced induction on. i think all of thoes computers are for NA.

more power to ya on the warranty. i would screw them too.




[Modified by ATurboCivic2NV, 5:51 PM 3/13/2002]

 

What did your timing belt look like?

Stock knock sensors are garbage, they don't work past like 5k on a STOCK motor anyway. They are only used to pull timing for poor gas (in our honda's).

Sounds like your car was built on a Friday at 4:55pm...I'd try and get Honda to cover this one.

Tom

 

Return car to stock and tow it to honda. it's worth a try, right? i really doubt they will ask you if you had a modified ecu @ the time. And if they do... lie. it might sound shitty, but it's your money and your choice. I'd do the same thing.

 

It's funny how many losers cry poverty when it comes to fixing something that wouldn't have broken had they not installed (very expensive) parts that were not designed for.

Why someone would ever instal racing parts into a street car is beyond me. Racing requires rebuilds often. Race components are not designed for long life, hence multiple rebuilds. If you invest the money in such parts, be forewarned that there will be inherent rebuild costs too.

Bottom line, grow up and accept the consequences of your own actions because no one did this to you except yourself.

 

First off, the car's already at Honda, and here's the funny part-they said I ran Nitrous through the motor and it blew!! HAHA(I told them to prove it..still waiting).... the only reason I even got the damn ECU is so I can run Hondata 3b. I have already paid for a full custom turbo kit for it, to be installed and tuned whenever I drop the car off(not happening for a while). The one I got just happened to be chipped to run a B16, so why not use it? Now I've spent all my hard earned $$ and then the motor goes.. the day before it goes into the shop...

Dealerships=


[Modified by BlackOutSi, 12:16 AM 3/14/2002]

 

Looked perfectly fine to me... That was one of the first things I checked. This really is just a big nasty nightmare.. just need to wake up really soon. Any time now..

 

just go and get anything u can out of them... some people are so quick to say how wrong and bad it is... this world is based upon makeing a buck and so much of it is unethical... if u like it or not... its true... iv had my share of run-oins with honda... always worked in my favor though... enuff said

 

well i think your all full of **** about the ecu thing..i have a gsr motor with 12.5 compression and a p28 ecu with a mugen chip and it runs good..and if you can get a new motor from honda DO IT..screw them.

 

Only assumptions are made here as to what was the cause of BlackOutSi motor problems..

How many times has a car with mods been towed into a Honda dealership with severe motor problems and and automatic blame is put on the owner and the modifications done to the vehicle.. Couldnt this same problem happen to a stock vehicle without the mods? well it does...

Its too bad that dealerships get a bad rap for being ****** that they are over the fine line if the job "is" or "is not" a warranty issue..

Years ago I had the ability to make such judgement calls as to if this was a cause of "owner error" or "factory flaw". If I still had that power, I would have to warranty this motor and I would do that without any hesitation and Honda would not have a problem with that..

Nowdays If that happens, "higher ups" make that decision including service managers and people directly related to American Honda.. There assumption would be to put the blame on the owner and his intentions and make them pay instead of fixing their own product...

What I have noticed is that Honda does not stand by their product they way that they used to a few years back.. It seems their major concern is with endorsing sale of vehicles and not to worry about what future problems that may arise later.. when it comes to service/parts cost, then they start "puckering" their tight wad @ss*oles and they screw the consumer..

You are correct BlackOutSi, tell those jack-offs at the dealership and at Honda to prove wrong doing in your part... I would make a loud statement and make them stand by their product...





[Modified by BreakStuff, 10:39 PM 3/13/2002]

 

when you deal with fraud be very careful in covering your tracks...i learned the hard way and almost went to jail for a very long time on the charge of insurance fraud....i learned my lesson, but if you got something that could be covered by warrenty, **** it...return the motor to stock specs and get a new one, doesnt really seem that Honda is strapped for motors, so they can suck a mean one....

 

Well the guys at the Dealership usually try one thing at a time when trying to screw me out of warranty work.. Example: with the paint, first they said it was acid rain and stood by it without backing down. I left, just like they wanted me to. I went back later, and they said bird crap did it.. I left again and said f* it, I'm buying a Carbon Fiber hood.

This time, they threw everything at me at once, within one phone conversation. The Service manager himself called me, and said I ran nitrous through the motor. The car's never seen nitrous, and I told him so. Then he said "abusive driving" isn't covered in the warranty. I then asked if this so called "sports coupe" had a rev limiter. He said yes. I asked if it was emissions limited as far as horsepower goes. He said yes. I then asked how you abusively drive a motor that was designed to make 100hp per liter with a 8200rpm redline. He said "apparently you know how"... that got me going. Wrong thing to say. He proceeded to tell me that I would have to pay for them to remove the oil pan to look at the internals, and that his recommendation to Hondacare(the warranty company) that they not cover it. But, they can't call out the adjuster until the pan was off. I asked him why I would pay them to void my warranty when I did nothing wrong... no answer. then he asked about the service records, I said I would bring them by, and he acted diappointed. These guys are intent on screwing me over one way or another..

 

Hey just wondering, your running stock cams right?? Because if you have high lift/duration cams with stock springs/retainers, it could also cause valve float. Just my two pennies.

 

**** that man, honda and there overpriced $ervice, just to check a check engine light $75 to see the code lol!. I really hope you get the warranty work on it, don't let them push you around, hope you can do something about it. Who gets to say the last word anyways?

 

No aftermarket parts inside the motor.. the valvecover had never even been off since the little japanese robots put it together. Regular oil changes at 3,000miles with 10w-30 Castrol (same thing this dealership uses)...

 

Question about the knock sensor. I have a 92 prelude si h23. Now When I pulled the head off a few weeks ago the knock sensor got stuck and it broke. So I have been driving around like this for the past week with the cel on. So should I worry about anything happening like this? Or does the ecu go into "safe" mode so I loose power. I have not noticed any power lose. Should I worry. Also does anyone know why the h23 non vtec motor has a knock sensor I do not think any non vtec motors have a knock sensor. Why this engine. I thought only vtec engines have the knock sensor until I broke mine.

 

CORRECTION: Honda of America

 

NEVER USE BOSCH +4's!!!!!!!! IF you dropped a valve you need to consider why! I dropped a valve in an 89hb si the day after driving very hard.. Why I dropped a valve was due to the bosch +4's having their nodes drop off inside the cylinder! Think about what that little piece of metal can do once it breaks off inside the cylinder at 7k!!!!??? Mine burned a hole in the piston over a quarter size diameter.. then all the shrapnel from my broken valve and piston got sucked through my intake manifold and into the other cylinders causing damage to all other cylinder walls and pistons!!

So I will make this statement once again.. Bosch +4's have a reputation of losing nodes.. NEVER USE +4's!!!!!

 

Ya know... I was wondering about that, but couldn't figure out how it would affect the other pistons... I found out they were poop after they were installed, and they were coming out and being replaced w/ Denso's since the turbo was going in..Thanks for the input, though.. No one had said anything about them yet.

 

damn just spend the money and get a good ecu and some tuning. You have allready spent big bucks what's a little more.

 

there is another reason for disabling a knock sensor....spoon man is correct it is for racing, and it can also be for a car with forged pistons....becaues of the different material and the different in heat expansion properties they tend to rattle and "knock" in the cylinders till the warm up and sometimes they dont stop at all......sometimes this rattleing can cause the knock sensor to retard the timing thus loosing power....