Best Transmission fluid to use
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by psi420 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I remove VSS and funnel fluid down through there.</TD></TR></TABLE>
My shop manual says the tranny is "fill to spill". In other words, to fill it to the correct level, you need to keep filling until the fluid reaches the bottom of the fill hole. Since the VSS is on top of the tranny, if you don't measure how much you're putting in, you're likely to overfill.
My shop manual says the tranny is "fill to spill". In other words, to fill it to the correct level, you need to keep filling until the fluid reaches the bottom of the fill hole. Since the VSS is on top of the tranny, if you don't measure how much you're putting in, you're likely to overfill.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94CivicSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
My shop manual says the tranny is "fill to spill". In other words, to fill it to the correct level, you need to keep filling until the fluid reaches the bottom of the fill hole. Since the VSS is on top of the tranny, if you don't measure how much you're putting in, you're likely to overfill. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Gimme a break, read your fluid capacities.
2.25 qts and its full.
My shop manual says the tranny is "fill to spill". In other words, to fill it to the correct level, you need to keep filling until the fluid reaches the bottom of the fill hole. Since the VSS is on top of the tranny, if you don't measure how much you're putting in, you're likely to overfill. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Gimme a break, read your fluid capacities.
2.25 qts and its full.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by psi420 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Gimme a break
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just telling you what I read. Seems like a lot more trouble to remove a sensor when you've got a fill plug right there.
Gimme a break
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just telling you what I read. Seems like a lot more trouble to remove a sensor when you've got a fill plug right there.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BabyDaddy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Redline MTF
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Bah! I used Redline MTF after I installed my Quaife, and several of my synchos crapped out. I switched back to Honda MTF, and no grinding except for going into 5th. I doubt I'll ever use Redline ever again after that endeavor...
</TD></TR></TABLE>Bah! I used Redline MTF after I installed my Quaife, and several of my synchos crapped out. I switched back to Honda MTF, and no grinding except for going into 5th. I doubt I'll ever use Redline ever again after that endeavor...
damn...we just installed my friends clutch...on his 91 DX hatch w/ 5spd D16A6 and he used..i forgot what brand but it was for automatic transmissions
. and now he could barely get it into first. he has to start the car in first now. also when he puts it in reverse it sounds like its grinding even with the clutch in. will auto trans. fluid mess up his trans.? oh yeah sorry for bringing back an old thread..didn't want to start a new one..late.
. and now he could barely get it into first. he has to start the car in first now. also when he puts it in reverse it sounds like its grinding even with the clutch in. will auto trans. fluid mess up his trans.? oh yeah sorry for bringing back an old thread..didn't want to start a new one..late.
i've been using castrol gtx 10w40 in all my honda trannys for 4 years and have not had a single transmission related problem. I use Honda ATF fluid in my 6 spd Z28 tranny though!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Typically, Swepco ATF (Southwestern Petroleum Company) uses more "shock absorbing" additives in its make-up. This can help under "High load" situations, such as "quick shifts" common in drag racing and road racing. The properties of the Swepco 20wt ATF are unique and this keeps the fluid from "pushing out" from between parts causing metal to metal situations. Regular oils can be compressed (to a point) and can be pushed out causing wear and damage. You can contact Dann Oebker at (520) 419-4242 about this product. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, thank you for the info. (and nice built up in the mag!! is it done yet?) so you recommend this over the Honda MTF and the GM Syncromesh? and the 2.25 quarts is the quantity for H22 trannys, right? thanks.
Typically, Swepco ATF (Southwestern Petroleum Company) uses more "shock absorbing" additives in its make-up. This can help under "High load" situations, such as "quick shifts" common in drag racing and road racing. The properties of the Swepco 20wt ATF are unique and this keeps the fluid from "pushing out" from between parts causing metal to metal situations. Regular oils can be compressed (to a point) and can be pushed out causing wear and damage. You can contact Dann Oebker at (520) 419-4242 about this product. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, thank you for the info. (and nice built up in the mag!! is it done yet?) so you recommend this over the Honda MTF and the GM Syncromesh? and the 2.25 quarts is the quantity for H22 trannys, right? thanks.
I have geard this crap over and over again about use only Honda approved fluids. IMO its a crock of **** just to get you to buy their stuff with the Honda name on it. You know the Honda Radiator fluid for instance is made here in Cali......and has the same ingredients as most other brands? I run Castrol Syntec in the tranny 10W40 and have no problems what so ever........i got 240,000 miles out of my old D16A1 tranny and i commuted for a longtime and shfted the hell out of it. I have since done a motor swap but the tranny never had a problem. Shifts were very positive and smooth. Now i have a JDM Xsi tranny with castrol syntec and feels awesome...........these trannies require motor oil cause they have closer tolerances than most other manual trannies.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MikeSarr_GSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ATF is no good for your synchronizers. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Not sure about other brands, but the Swepco 20wt ATF is great.
Not sure about other brands, but the Swepco 20wt ATF is great.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iakona »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yes, thank you for the info. (and nice built up in the mag!! is it done yet?) so you recommend this over the Honda MTF and the GM Syncromesh? and the 2.25 quarts is the quantity for H22 trannys, right? thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for the nice comments about the Mag. I am done with my portion of the Acura project (H22 engine build) so far. It went to the International Auto Salon for display, so the project is going nicely.
I really like the Swepco ATF. IT works killer. I like it better than the Honda MTF, but I am not saying the factory stuff is bad either. I have yet to try the GM syncromesh since I have had exceptional luck with the Swepco ATF.
yes, thank you for the info. (and nice built up in the mag!! is it done yet?) so you recommend this over the Honda MTF and the GM Syncromesh? and the 2.25 quarts is the quantity for H22 trannys, right? thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for the nice comments about the Mag. I am done with my portion of the Acura project (H22 engine build) so far. It went to the International Auto Salon for display, so the project is going nicely.
I really like the Swepco ATF. IT works killer. I like it better than the Honda MTF, but I am not saying the factory stuff is bad either. I have yet to try the GM syncromesh since I have had exceptional luck with the Swepco ATF.
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