I've heard that d16a6 blocks have more, and sturdier material around the main bearing journals. And, as such they are the best choice for an SOHC block.

Any truth to this? I currently have rods, and pistons, and an a6 block. I'm going to have it built soon (hoping it'll hold 200ft/lbs for years), but I want to see if it's my best choice, or if it's just like the rest of the SOHCs.

Thanks

 

I've always been told that the D16Z6 is the best overall SOHC powerplant for a Honda...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mikeyp5d &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've always been told that the D16Z6 is the best overall SOHC powerplant for a Honda...</TD></TR></TABLE>

+2


-MIKE

 

He was asking about strengh of the block not the power it can make, I think the a6 block is good

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BiG Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He was asking about strengh of the block not the power it can make, I think the a6 block is good</TD></TR></TABLE>

Is there a difference in block strengths between the a6 and the z6? I don't know myself.

 

subscribing cause i've been wanting to know too.

 

88 89 crx blocks had steel main caps making it the best!

 

i heard the a6 has iron mains

 

d16a6 has steel main caps. This is why it is superior to the z6.

 

what about a d15b block? im not saying its good i was just wondering how it stands in strenght

 

forgive my ignorance, as i've yet to take apart a block.

but what is a main cap? and how are iron ones superior?

 

they aren't iron they are steel, steel&gt;aluminum. As far as the other question goes about the d15. Pretty much every other block has the same relative "strength". For a high horsepower build however the a6 block will give you that much more added security. There is a 300+whp d series block on stock sleeves in the FI section. Main caps refer to the cranks main line. The main caps hold the cranks main line bearings. Basically the crank sits in the main line. When a block gets align-honed. It is being aligned off the mainline.

 

Excellent, thanks for the replies. I'll double check my block but they looked like steel, as opposed to alumninum.

I don't think I'm going to make a 300whp monster but a good 200+whp on a 28R should keep me happy and safe... until I get itchy for more, lol!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stop the Beast &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Excellent, thanks for the replies. I'll double check my block but they looked like steel, as opposed to alumninum.

I don't think I'm going to make a 300whp monster but a good 200+whp on a 28R should keep me happy and safe... until I get itchy for more, lol!</TD></TR></TABLE>

You don't have to look. Put a magnet up to it. If its attracted it's definately not aluminum.

 

When was the last time you ever heard of a honda crank breaking a maincap? I know that all of the D16 blocks are capible of 400+ whp. Its just the head that usually holds them back (w/forged rods & pistons).

Honestly, I would rather go with aluminum endcaps. I wouldn't trust dissimilar metals on either side of the two most important part holding the rotating assembly. My opinion is to use whatever you can find that's in the best condition and have it examined. A forged rod with internal problems could easily snap before a problem-free OEM rod, so don't exactly be looking at design differences for longevity.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When was the last time you ever heard of a honda crank breaking a maincap? I know that all of the D16 blocks are capible of 400+ whp. Its just the head that usually holds them back (w/forged rods & pistons).

Honestly, I would rather go with aluminum endcaps. I wouldn't trust dissimilar metals on either side of the two most important part holding the rotating assembly. My opinion is to use whatever you can find that's in the best condition and have it examined. A forged rod with internal problems could easily snap before a problem-free OEM rod, so don't exactly be looking at design differences for longevity.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are correct about honda mains being reliable but the fact remains that the a6 mains are strongest.

 

with the D16a6 the 88-89 and 90-91's have different main girdles I believe, the 88-89 have the steel and the 90-91 are aluminum I believe. I have boosted both the z6 and a6 and had much better luck on the Z6, but thats just from experience, the Z6 ring lands held up alot better, usually the first thing to go on a d-series. Plus you have to take into consideration with a z6 it already has the vtec oil and water pumps which in my mind provide better protection under engine stress. Just in my experiences stay away from the Y8 engines on stock form because of the oiling problems which lead to low compression on #4 and #4 spun bearings.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by King-Kong &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">with the D16a6 the 88-89 and 90-91's have different main girdles I believe, the 88-89 have the steel and the 90-91 are aluminum I believe. I have boosted both the z6 and a6 and had much better luck on the Z6, but thats just from experience, the Z6 ring lands held up alot better, usually the first thing to go on a d-series. Plus you have to take into consideration with a z6 it already has the vtec oil and water pumps which in my mind provide better protection under engine stress. Just in my experiences stay away from the Y8 engines on stock form because of the oiling problems which lead to low compression on #4 and #4 spun bearings.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are the oil and water pump different, I have to check those part numbers. As for the internals I'm going with eagle rods and wiseco pistons, so hopefully those won't explode.

 

man, people are making 300whp on STOCK d-series, if you cant make that with forged internals you need a better tuner. You can easily make 340who with internals and alot more power depending on your setup, turbo size, wastegate, intercooler, tuning software/tuner, charge pipes, exhaust, etc etc etc. I would recommend taking your head down and getting it cleaned and ported mainly on the exhaust side and if you have a little bit of money left over run the zex 59300 camshaft, they are amazing for the money.

Best of luck .... Chris

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stop the Beast &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Are the oil and water pump different, I have to check those part numbers. As for the internals I'm going with eagle rods and wiseco pistons, so hopefully those won't explode.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah making the 300whp won't be an issue. I'm only building the bottom end because I'm in a situation where it's dirt cheap and I havea choice of bottom ends to start from-might as well make the best one I can.

Although, some people have warned me that more issue than commonly noted can arise in built motors and I might be better off using d-series engnies as "disposable" 6,8,12,18 months whatever, boom! and then get a new(used) one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stop the Beast &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah making the 300whp won't be an issue. I'm only building the bottom end because I'm in a situation where it's dirt cheap and I havea choice of bottom ends to start from-might as well make the best one I can.

Although, some people have warned me that more issue than commonly noted can arise in built motors and I might be better off using d-series engnies as "disposable" 6,8,12,18 months whatever, boom! and then get a new(used) one.</TD></TR></TABLE>

they may be disposable, but if that thing goes out on the highway cause there's that v8 that was ******* with you, you're gonna be so pissed that you didn't wait longer and build it right. It's not the money that's an issue when it comes to this, it's the time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicsitek GanGsTa &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You are correct about honda mains being reliable but the fact remains that the a6 mains are strongest.</TD></TR></TABLE>



This is true...but in my opinion the a6 and z6 are the best sohc motors over all!

 

D16Z6 SOHC

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hazw8st &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">D16Z6 SOHC </TD></TR></TABLE>

werd Yo

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hazw8st &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> D16Z6 SOHC</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mikeyp5d &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> werd Yo </TD></TR></TABLE>


D16Z6 SOHC turbo!