I did a H22a swap in my civic a while back, after I got it from the shop it drove perfect for two days. Unfortunatley I learned of the weak auto tensioners these motors have, the timing belt tried to walk off and locked my motor up. I took it to two shops to have a compression test done and everything appead to be good, so I did a manual tensioner conversion and the balancer belt was removed. I started to drive the car again but noticed it had an extremely rough idle, more than it should without the balancer belt. I then realized it was misfiring...bad, and also threw a knock, defective cylinder, and egr code. While the car was idling I took out each plug wire one by one to try and find the miss and cylinders 3 & 4 were not running!! But when I drive the car it feels fine, hits V-Tec fine, but maybe doesn't run as good as it should (not sure cause the 2 days i had it i didn't really get on it). I've changed spark plugs, plug wires, and distributor. It was said to be in acurrate timing also. Did I bend my valves?

 

bump

 

take your car to a reputable honda shop to look at it. or do some homework and fix it. souns like maybe an intermintent problem maybe.

 

why did you remove the balancer belt?

 

I didn't, the guy working on it did. Said it would free up some parasitic power loss from the rotating assembly, like power steering or AC does. But I've recently put it back on because I heard it could cause all kinds of wear and bearing problems.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hatch-22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Did I bend my valves?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Maybe a little bit, just enough to cause a missfire at idle. A leakdown test would be a good way to find out.

 

Well, got a compression test done and i was around 240psi across all four cylinders except for 3 & 4 being slightly lower but still well in the upper range. From what I know severely bent valves would mean a considerable loss in compression. Could slightly bent valves cause the motor to not operate cylinders 3 & 4 at all during idle, but run fine during regular driving? I've checked every other apect, it's getting plenty fuel and spark but no combustion whatsoever, only at idle. The shop told me the motor was in perfect mechanical condition, and that it is probably something in the wiring. Going over wiring takes many hours. What do you guys think, pull the head off and start checking each valve, or start going over the wiring?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hatch-22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> What do you guys think, pull the head off and start checking each valve, or start going over the wiring?</TD></TR></TABLE>
A leakdown test may save you alot of time and money.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chiovnidca &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
A leakdown test may save you alot of time and money.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

got a leakdown test done also, all's said to look good, i guess we're going to go back through all the freakin wiring next week

 

Well, I'm getting ready to have the wiring looked over but before I do I still have a slight doubt about my dizzy. I was told to get another one so I got one off Ebay from a guy that sells them w/pretty good feedback. I got it and popped it on with no luck of fixing my cylinder 3 & 4 missfire. When I told the shop the dizzy was used but said to be in good condition they jumped on me and said I should of bought a brand spanking new one. But what are the odds of another dizzy causing the exact same cylinder missfires of my old one? Do you really think I could of bought a bunk one, I mean I checked all four of the cylinders for spark. All the plugs are getting spark but nothing moving in 3 & 4.

 

The firing order right? 1342 Different dist cap? Check plug wires?