Battery Relocation Question, Proper Wiring
#1
Battery Relocation Question, Proper Wiring
I have done a lot of research both on here and other sites about relocating the battery to the trunk and the proper way to wire it up to the front for power to the starter and fuse box. From what I have read and what I am planning to do is to run a fused main wire to a distribution box. From there one wire to my fuse box and then one to my starter. From what I have seen that is perfectly acceptable.
My neighbor tells me that is a bad idea and is a good way to short out my components within the car. That if the starter pulls for extra amps being on the same circuit as everything else it could fry stuff out. That I need to run an independent, unfused, wire from the battery to the starter, then one to the fuse box.
I know there are a lot of people who have went the relocate route and I wanted to hear if anyone has had any long term issues only running one primary and splitting it between the two. Just for my own peace of mind.
My neighbor tells me that is a bad idea and is a good way to short out my components within the car. That if the starter pulls for extra amps being on the same circuit as everything else it could fry stuff out. That I need to run an independent, unfused, wire from the battery to the starter, then one to the fuse box.
I know there are a lot of people who have went the relocate route and I wanted to hear if anyone has had any long term issues only running one primary and splitting it between the two. Just for my own peace of mind.
#2
Honda-Tech Member
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Re: Battery Relocation Question, Proper Wiring
ive done it a few different ways...
the one that i the most issues with was running one wire from the battery to the starter, then from the starter to the fuse box. always seemed to cause the starter to stick. idk, but bad starter, maybe bad setup.
on my current car, i run it from the battery to a 150amp breaker, then from the breaker to the remote terminals, then one leg to the starter, one leg to the fuse box. 6 years later, zero issues. i think im running 1 or 0 gauge wire too.
the one that i the most issues with was running one wire from the battery to the starter, then from the starter to the fuse box. always seemed to cause the starter to stick. idk, but bad starter, maybe bad setup.
on my current car, i run it from the battery to a 150amp breaker, then from the breaker to the remote terminals, then one leg to the starter, one leg to the fuse box. 6 years later, zero issues. i think im running 1 or 0 gauge wire too.
#3
Old Fart
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Re: Battery Relocation Question, Proper Wiring
Best way is to run directly to the starter motor, [through a fuse or circuit breaker then run a lead from the starter, [same terminal] to the fuse box, [6ga at most] a fusible link should be used on the lead from the starter, [at the starter] to the fuse box.
There is no need for any "splitter box" or anything other then a fuse or breaker between batt. and starter, the less connections the better.
A ground from batt. to chassis should be of the same gauge as the power cable, it should be as short as possible and make contact with the cars floor pan, seat belt bolts make excellent ground points.
Also make sure there is a good chassis to engine ground in the engine bay.
2ga cable should be enough it will handle 225 Amps, unless you are in a very cold climate and then I would go to 1/0 cable, [350A current capacity] with appropriate size fuse/breaker. 94
There is no need for any "splitter box" or anything other then a fuse or breaker between batt. and starter, the less connections the better.
A ground from batt. to chassis should be of the same gauge as the power cable, it should be as short as possible and make contact with the cars floor pan, seat belt bolts make excellent ground points.
Also make sure there is a good chassis to engine ground in the engine bay.
2ga cable should be enough it will handle 225 Amps, unless you are in a very cold climate and then I would go to 1/0 cable, [350A current capacity] with appropriate size fuse/breaker. 94
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