Battery Relocation
I judt did a search and nothing showed up. I'm putting my battery in my trunk. is there anything i need to worry about like the resistance of the wire or anything like that?
use low gauge wire, like 2 gauge.
unless you're got a sealed battery, you need to put the battery in a sealed case.
unless you're got a sealed battery, you need to put the battery in a sealed case.
use low gauge wire, like 2 gauge.
unless you're got a sealed battery, you need to put the battery in a sealed case.
unless you're got a sealed battery, you need to put the battery in a sealed case.
i've also seen people relocate the battery to where the resonator sits behind the front bumper. that way it's not in the passenger compartment, but it's also more exposed. something to think about.
i've also seen people relocate the battery to where the resonator sits behind the front bumper. that way it's not in the passenger compartment, but it's also more exposed. something to think about.
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i've also seen people relocate the battery to where the resonator sits behind the front bumper. that way it's not in the passenger compartment, but it's also more exposed. something to think about.
Some chrysler cars do that from the factory. Stratus maybe?
Some chrysler cars do that from the factory. Stratus maybe?
too much work to install on. anways i know that you had to turn the steering wheel all the way to one side then you could remove the access panel in the wheel well and the battery was wedged up in there. i guess i've never looked at the specifics of that area, but it sounds kind of appealing if you can pull it off....for one, you'd keep the wire lenghts A LOT shorter, which makes the install easier and probably more effective. also, it will lower your center of gravity which will help you as long as its not too far on the edge of the car.....i guess trying it is the only sure way of knowing.
here's the picture, i saved it from another thread which i couldn't find.
sorry to whoever's car that is...
he custom welded a bracket to hold the battery in place. as far as it exploding in an accident, it seems like it would do a lot less damage exploding down there then it would in your engine compartment, though i guess the chances of it being damaged enough to explode would be greater since it's more exposed. maybe i'll do it and weld a cromoly cage around ti to protect it. blah, gotta get my swap done first....
[Modified by serious, 6:03 PM 11/22/2002]
sorry to whoever's car that is...
he custom welded a bracket to hold the battery in place. as far as it exploding in an accident, it seems like it would do a lot less damage exploding down there then it would in your engine compartment, though i guess the chances of it being damaged enough to explode would be greater since it's more exposed. maybe i'll do it and weld a cromoly cage around ti to protect it. blah, gotta get my swap done first....
[Modified by serious, 6:03 PM 11/22/2002]
Try to find a good quality 1 gauge or 2 gauge cable with multistrand conductor. The multistrand contruction helps make the wire more flexable and thus easier to route through your car. Sometimes welding cables are alittle too stiff to route easily. Good cable will not give you resistance problems......you can measure the ohms before installing as well.
Some other tips that may help:
Ground the battery to the chassis really well. I double grounded it in the rear hatch and used a 4 gauge cable to run ground to the front original location. Overkill...Yes but no chances of a faulty ground with that.
The extra fuse or circuit breaker is very important. Yes there is a fuse under the hood for the engine bay but it won't protect the cable from the engine bay back to the trunk. You will need an additional fuse/breaker in the positive cable within 12-14" of the battery.
An if you plan to make trips to the drag track you might as well start thinking about the battery kill switch that they will require. Remember that it needs to cut battery power as well as the alternator power.
And bolt that thing down good too. Tech rules will require it but it would also suck to have a 30lb battery chucked at the back of your head during a crash
Good luck
[Modified by SLPR, 3:31 PM 11/22/2002]
Some other tips that may help:
Ground the battery to the chassis really well. I double grounded it in the rear hatch and used a 4 gauge cable to run ground to the front original location. Overkill...Yes but no chances of a faulty ground with that.
The extra fuse or circuit breaker is very important. Yes there is a fuse under the hood for the engine bay but it won't protect the cable from the engine bay back to the trunk. You will need an additional fuse/breaker in the positive cable within 12-14" of the battery.
An if you plan to make trips to the drag track you might as well start thinking about the battery kill switch that they will require. Remember that it needs to cut battery power as well as the alternator power.
And bolt that thing down good too. Tech rules will require it but it would also suck to have a 30lb battery chucked at the back of your head during a crash
Good luck
[Modified by SLPR, 3:31 PM 11/22/2002]
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