hey, i recently ordered the baker battery from inlinfour.

i notice in the picture on the side it has square shaped terminals.

my civic has round terminals and the main wires in the car have the round connectors.

is the pic on IL4 just a generic pic? or do i need new connectors?

TIA!

 

if you dont get the correct terminals just order the right ones here:

http://www.gotbatteries.com/Productp...On04=&AddOn05=

 

i cant use those. the battery is sealed.

i something to make the end of the wires fit the battery.

 

i cant believe they're selling a motorcycle battery as a car battery. i hope you didnt pay more than the cost of a motorcycle batter

anyways, my suggestion would be to get some large lugs crimped onto your existing cables and then bolt the lugs to the battery that way. the lugs should be available at a marine store or possibly an auto store.

 

i don't think its a motorcycle battery. its small but a few sites i looked at said it was for autos.

i only paid what, $90 for it? most retail at $100 - $120

anyway, these lugs you're talkin bout... what do you mean? do i go into a store and ask for battery lugs?

heres what i've got to work with:

 

trust me...its a motorcycle battery i've sold them for over 3 years part time (as a motorcycle battery). as long as you're not in a cold climate though, it should do the job. it just humors me though that they call it a car battery.

the lugs that i'm thinking of look like the gold ones in the exact center of this image. most are either crimped onto the cable, or some have solder inside so all you do it slip it on the cable and heat with a torch and it takes care of the soldering for you. maybe print out the image and show the people at the stores for clarification.

 

hmmm.....

wondering if i should just sell the damn thing. i don't want to pay restocking fees.

i thought its supposed to be a good battery?

i'm able to recrimp though? what about all my alarm and foglight power wiring?

 

well like i said, as long as you're not cranking it in a cold climate, it *should* be enough power to start a honda. as far as your other wires are concerned, you could either relocate those to somewhere else in the vehicle (somewhere off of the fuse box or something) or you could get smaller lugs for those as well and stack them on the terminals when you go to bolt it all down.

 

Go return the battery and cuss them out for selling you a motorcycle battery. Damn inline four.

 

baker's are pretty good

 

yea, but are they good for cars?

i dunno if i want to return. damn restocking fees and whatnot.

 

lets put it this way: its the exact same design and chemistry as a car battery. its just that the cranking power is less. as long as it turns over your motor (and it will in decently warm weather), then you're good to go.

 

Hello....it is a lightweight battery, of course it is going to have less cranking amps and reserve capacity. What did you expect???
Besides it does not matter if it is a "motorcycle" or " car" battery. A battery is a battery for the most part.

Try looking at a Hawker, Dyna-Batt, Odyssey, or Spoon battery. Hmmm looks pretty similar don't they. It's becasue they are all SLA (sealed liquid acid) batteries.

You can use that battery in your car with no problems and yes you can remove the suare lugs on the battery and replace with the round lugs which someone already gave you a source for.
Yes the lightweight battery will not have as much cranking amps or reserve capacity, but the trade off is weight and space savings. I'm using a similar Hawker battery with no problems....so are my friends. I talked to a guy in MI that drives his ITR with a SLA battery and no problems. Search around alittle, there is alot of inof on H-T about such batteries.


[Modified by SLPR, 4:32 AM 3/28/2003]

 

the battery says not to open for any reason or something to that affect involving the posts.

the search function is in the pooper at the moment. so can't really find anything else about it.

i'd like to use the battery becasue its smaller and lighter. i just don't want it to not be strong enough to start the h22 or arm the alarm or listen to music ya know?

 

I don't own a honda, yet, but I own a neon and people just use walmart extreme tractor batterys. They're about $25 and 15 pounds lighter than the stock neon battery, people have been using them for years without problems. Just get one with the most CCAs.

 

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>the battery says not to open for any reason or something to that affect involving the posts.

the search function is in the pooper at the moment. so can't really find anything else about it.

i'd like to use the battery becasue its smaller and lighter. i just don't want it to not be strong enough to start the h22 or arm the alarm or listen to music ya know?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

It sucks when you have a Honda Prelude, or any othert heavy car, for example, and you're not very fast, because you're lugging around a heavy chasis. I own a Baker Battery, PB19, and I use it to start the H22A. First of all, compared to my old Optima Battery, this battery sucks. My Optima Battery starts the car so easily. With the Baker Battery, it starts after a couple cranks. The Baker Battery is rated at 390 CCA, which is 10 less CCA than required to start a B18C. The H22A requires 500 CCA to start it normally. You now have a 110 CCA differences, and hence it takes awhile to start. But other than that, it shaved my time 1/10th of a second compared to my heavy *** Optima. Dang, I need more ways to lighten this darn car.

Anyways, I have it in a Civic now, and it starts a motor in the Civic just fine. Not sure how it'll do on a B-Series Motor.

[Modified by cpforyou, 6:01 AM 4/6/2003]


Modified by cpforyou at 3:06 AM 4/10/2003

 

I have the Baker Percision batter, running it for 2 months, no issues. I had to order round terminals to get it to work without cutting connections, just can't remember the website, might want to ask in the RR/Autocross forum, as that's where I was given the link.

Austin

 

How do you know that? If that's because that's what the stock Honda battery is rated for, I'd suspect it's actually less.

 

I thought some of these were dry-cell.

 

no those are all SLA (AGM)

 

how did you take off the square terminals? it looks sealed.

its not SLA. its some glass composite crap. lol

 

i had that exact baker battery.. it was a piece of crap.. it died on me after 6 months.. my car had trouble starting with it too.. just keep the stock battery... its better than getting stuck because you wanted to save 10lbs..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsrtyper &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had that exact baker battery.. it was a piece of crap.. it died on me after 6 months.. my car had trouble starting with it too.. just keep the stock battery... its better than getting stuck because you wanted to save 10lbs.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Just eat veggies and lose 10 lbs.
Yeah, I had a friend who bought it from inlinefour.com and it sucks.
I personally bought one from Baker Precision directly, and it works.
Maybe inlinefour.com stores them in bad conditions or something? Who knows right?

Baker Precision
inlinefour.com

 

well poop. i got mine from IL4

well, if it does die, i'll charge it and see how long it lasts.

i dunno. i just wanna make it so i can use it with my round connectors. or, get square connectors.