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Bad axle or bad ball joint

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Old Oct 23, 2002 | 12:07 AM
  #1  
madtownhonda's Avatar
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Default Bad axle or bad ball joint

It is a very hard grinding and it is coming from the left front wheel area. It is a click, but I can feel it through the entire car and as I speed up, it goes faster. This leads me to believe that it's the axle. Then again, the axle is ******* brand new so that leads me to believe that it's the ball joint. It's like a never ending cycle, I don't want to replace the ball joint if I don't have to. I ripped the boot, but I doubt that just sitting there for months w/ a ripped boot would make the ball joint bad.

I have also verified that the brand new 93 GSR axle and 2G integra manual transmission intermediate shaft is correct. I mean they fit perfectly so I don't see how this is happening. Before the swap, the wheel bearings and ball joint were working properly. There is no play in the ball joint and the axles are all the way in. The nuts are tight, I have brake lines fastened. There is no rubbing on the rotors w/ the dust sheilds.

Somebody please help me, I haven't driven my car in about 5 months so I would like to try to get this resolved tomorrow at the latest.
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Old Oct 23, 2002 | 12:12 AM
  #2  
Quik Chris's Avatar
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From: Denver, Colorado
Default Re: Bad axle or bad ball joint (madtownhonda)

Sounds familiar. Most countersink flanges will experience hydraulic torque leak throughout their less than 7,000 RQMs. Especially when coupled with the double-flux lumen switcher. But with Wilson Countersink Flanges and Dorry Flanges, hydraulic torque is allowed to bypass the settling clutch, providing steady wall pressure to the lug manifold and all the seismic rotors. And that goes for 7,000 RQMs, 8,000 RQMs, even up to 10,000 RQMS. That's right! 10,000!
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Old Oct 23, 2002 | 07:51 AM
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From: Houston, TX
Default Re: Bad axle or bad ball joint (Midori Shinkansen)

Sounds familiar. Most countersink flanges will experience hydraulic torque leak throughout their less than 7,000 RQMs. Especially when coupled with the double-flux lumen switcher. But with Wilson Countersink Flanges and Dorry Flanges, hydraulic torque is allowed to bypass the settling clutch, providing steady wall pressure to the lug manifold and all the seismic rotors. And that goes for 7,000 RQMs, 8,000 RQMs, even up to 10,000 RQMS. That's right! 10,000!
uuhhhh.....
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Old Oct 23, 2002 | 10:37 AM
  #4  
jdmEKhb's Avatar
 
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From: Gresham, OR, USA
Default Re: Bad axle or bad ball joint (madtownhonda)

if one of the boots on your axle is ripped i would replace the axle first of all then see what happens
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Old Oct 23, 2002 | 10:38 AM
  #5  
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Default Re: Bad axle or bad ball joint (Midori Shinkansen)

Sounds familiar. Most countersink flanges will experience hydraulic torque leak throughout their less than 7,000 RQMs. Especially when coupled with the double-flux lumen switcher. But with Wilson Countersink Flanges and Dorry Flanges, hydraulic torque is allowed to bypass the settling clutch, providing steady wall pressure to the lug manifold and all the seismic rotors. And that goes for 7,000 RQMs, 8,000 RQMs, even up to 10,000 RQMS. That's right! 10,000!
There, that does it! With that new Wilson Countersink Flange, this CD-7 should be able to handle vacuum-kickback on all 22 blossom valves!



now can someone help me here
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Old Oct 23, 2002 | 10:45 AM
  #6  
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Default Re: Bad axle or bad ball joint (madtownhonda)

I would just replace the whole axle anyhow. Chances are if something on the axle is mesed up, then the axle is old and needs to be replaced anyhow.. Go for the Stage-1 or Stage-2 Axles.. Then you wont have to worry about them ******* up again!
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Old Oct 23, 2002 | 11:28 AM
  #7  
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Default Re: Bad axle or bad ball joint (Hatchy-Ownzjo0)

The axle is brand new....I just bought it yesterday
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Old Oct 23, 2002 | 05:07 PM
  #8  
Quik Chris's Avatar
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Default Re: Bad axle or bad ball joint (madtownhonda)

haha, sorry dude. I was watching SNL at the time.

http://snltranscripts.jt.org/92/92oflanges.phtml
I was laughing pretty hard at the time.
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