i am going to be running a b20z with an ls IM and valve cover, what do i do about the pcv. it is really necessary? its only a stock bottom and a set of cams. ive seen the oil catch can setups off the back of the black but is it necessary on such a mild build?

i dont want to route it back in the intake.

 

how do i set up the catch can so that it doesnt fill up so fast? and what do i do with the barb on the vc, plug it or put a filter on it?

 

???

 

^^very good info sir, really broke it down.

 

Do you have a website up anywhere?

 

so one more time for the slow people (thats me).....

do i have it right that with the three fittings on the can, one goes where the PVC used to be and another on the intake manifold and the last to the back of the block where the oil runs back into the engine?.....


does the vacuum from the intake manifold put vacuum in the can which draws the oil vapors out of the valve cover?


just checking.........

 

The idea of the catch can is to vent the crank case without getting oil back into the combustion chamber. The air is recycled back into the motor thru the PCV in stock form. The air is produced from internal moving parts of the motor like pistons moving up and down. If the vent is not enough and the crank case pressures are too much, it will blow seals, cause oil drain back issues, oil pressure problems and so on. The motor comes stock with less than 100 horsepower and neglecting to improve its breathing capabilities will only destroy it. So the more power you run, the more breathing it will need. You can use the fittings on the back of the block for a drain back as the catch can collects the oil and separates it. The filter on the top of the catch can will allow fresh air to be brought in. The fittings on the side of the catch can connect to the valve cover.

Hope this helps, but please ask if not.

 

i knew some of that but far from all of it, so thank you for that

so i was looking at your pictures again. some of your cans have a fitting where the air filter is and some have both on the can itself. what is the effective difference between those two setups. i can tell that if there is a fitting on the very bottom thats for drain back. i'm not talking bout that but instead i'm talking about this:

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/r...s/DSC00676.jpg

vs this

http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/r...s/DSC00636.jpg


your stuff is looking pretty professional. keep up the good work!

 

I offer 3 different systems:

Billet Breather. This has a removable head with filter elements inside. Same as filter style, just new age.

Breather filter. This has the open element and looks classic.

Billet check valve. For closed systems that require a sealed recirculation. My Mazda and BMW have this style. Replaces the stock pcv and is much more reliable especially for Turbo systems.

Sorry, hard to type on my phone. I will add more info later if you like?

 

definately!....but take your time.....i'm looking for something for my road race prepped EG civic with a stock B20. i might do cams and or a P8R head later, but for right now (while i make it stick to the track properly) i'm keeping it pretty much stock.

 

yea man....sorry i took so long to respond. i've been preparing for a track event coming up


you talk about dual purpose and thats what i have going on kinda. i have to be able to dive my car on the street, but only to the auto parts store or the track. i drive a mobile computer repair truck for a living so i don't actually don't need / have a daily. just a track bitch. it has half a weld in cage and when i acquire a welder and enough practice i'm going to finish it off and race SCCA events but until then it's just lapping days. i instruct HPDE newbs with the alfa romeo and the north west audi club.

here are some pictures of my engine bay because i want you to help me pick out a perfect solution because i think i'm pretty much sold on your custom catch can solution concept.

 

if my engine bay seems clean it's because its a retired show car......i picked it up for cheap and i've been converting it to a respectable track car ever since.


so the first general question is what do you think i need? i just ordered a moroso oil pan cuz mine is leaking so i don't know if that gives us a good oil drain back bung to use, or if thats what you use those for even.....do you think that wouldn't be over kill for my application? it's a track car, but it's just a stock b20 in it now. i might do head work and cams but that has yet to be seen. i just remember you talked about a setup for the track vs one thats nice on the street too. what possible disadvantage could you possibly have streeting a track oriented catch can setup?

and my other question is about oil drainback. you talked about something on the back of the block to drain oil back with.......actually you talked about venting the crank case, so i might be confusing the two. anyways basically my glitch is that i'm thinking i might be able to drain oil back so i never have to empty the catch can. if it's going to take forever to fill, i might not think it's necessary to bother and i'll just empty it once every once in a while in stead of deal with one more line. simplicity is key with this car. but if it would benifit venting the crank case and it also drained back oil from the can, i might be into it.


sorry i wrote a book. breviary is not my strong suit.

 

bump

 

Sorry, I answered that in a pm. When I get to a PC I will post up a good response.

 

It looks bad ***. I appreciate the photos. It helps me design something specific and will flow with its current theme.


I have an aftermarket oil pan too. I use its bung to drain back the oil from the turbo. It could work for the catch can, but is not necessary since the block has 2 fittings to choose from. The fittings are cheaper for it too. Will also keep the hose length short as possible since the back of the block will be closer to the catch can than the oil pan will be.


The more head work and cam profile you have, the more flow you will want from the catch can. The vacuum from the intake manifold will be scavenging crud thru the PCV hole. The vent hole on the Valve Cover will be relieving pressure from the motor as the pistons create it. The less restriction you have venting the crank case pressures, the better the oil drainback will be and the less internal drag from windage you will have.

A track dedicated car will like to vent the VC more than anything. Since there is not much time the track car will see vacuum, it doesnt benefit from having a PCV valve. The track car also doesnt suffer from the inclemental weather issues and only benefits from relieving the pressure.

A street dedicated car will like to catch the condensation and blow-by. This keeps the oil fom being contaminated and breaking down. It also keeps it from being burned in the combustion chamber. Thats why I mentioned earlier its a true combustion cleansing system.


I think it would be best to do a hybrid set up with both style tanks. Vent the case and catch the crud. No disadvantage to running both, but would be a disadvantage to only run one or the other.



My suggestion would be to run the Check Valve Catch Can to purify the combution and dont drain back. Use the breather catch can to vent the crankcase and drain it back to the backside of the block.



either way will actually work, but keeping the crud filtered out is whats important. The above recommendation is ideal.



Word up. I agree, simplicity is the way to be. "Having" to relocate a battery is not simplicity, although many do it anyway. Those huge T1's have their benefits, but the price will get you for sure.


I like the details and the questions are all very good ones. Think of the system like this: Daily driven cars will want to maintain the driveability. Keeping the stock PCV will help with driveability, but will eventually fail and will always allow crud to get into the motor. My check valve tanks put the valve AFTER the crud is caught keeping it clean and free from failure. The track car just wants ***** out power and doesnt care until that same crud is lowering octane. Thats why it can be returned to the oil pan, but never to the combustion chamber. Make sense?

My system has the flexibilty to give you the best of both worlds. Even if you wanted ***** out drag only setup, that can easily be done too. The tanks can be configured any way you like to accomodate the setup.

You want more pictures??

 

Cool stuff, I was researching the idea of using a custom check valve setup for mine and stumbled on the thread.

I'm working with a setup very similar to the guy's above. B20/p8r, but the big difference is that this one is for my daily driver and will be 95% non-abusive commuterizing. I've been thinking about building a can similar to ASP's:



but with a check valve and maybe a baffle to separate the "crud" and pull vacuum on the tank. I have the two prelude fittings on the block already and have been trying to decide what to do with the valve cover. I was thinking of welding over the stock pcv hole and relying on the stock angled outlet or also adding an extra -8 bung.

Would you be able to sell one of your check valve/breathers separately, or have any other input on my setup?

 

do you mean just the check valve by itself? No tank?