Planning a b20 build, what do you guys think so far...
84mm bore, deck the block .010, piston highth will be .020 valve clearance problem?
12.0:1 compression (rough estimate, but will be close)
Crower stage 2 cams with Crower spring and retainer kit, should i stick with toda B's?
Eagle rods? what is your take on that
How difficult is this going to be to tune with 93 octane, and hondata(if it is even possible on 93 octane)
Just starting to map this out. Got my car paid off finally. This will be going into a CRX or EF hatch...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by acuratech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Planning a b20 build, what do you guys think so far...
84mm bore, deck the block .010, piston highth will be .020 valve clearance problem?
12.0:1 compression (rough estimate, but will be close)
Crower stage 2 cams with Crower spring and retainer kit, should i stick with toda B's?
Eagle rods? what is your take on that
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sleeve the block if you are doing that. 12:1 with the thin b20 sleeves is risky. I prefer Toda B's to Crower stage 2's and Eagle rods are the stuff.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by acuratech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Planning a b20 build, what do you guys think so far...
84mm bore, deck the block .010, piston highth will be .020 valve clearance problem?
12.0:1 compression (rough estimate, but will be close)
Crower stage 2 cams with Crower spring and retainer kit, should i stick with toda B's?
Eagle rods? what is your take on that
How difficult is this going to be to tune with 93 octane, and hondata(if it is even possible on 93 octane)
Just starting to map this out. Got my car paid off finally. This will be going into a CRX or EF hatch...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't buy Crower valve springs, especially w/ B's, IMO.

 

i'll let you know on tuning with the high compression as soon as i can get my car finished and back on the street, bout the same as you stated but with sleeves and skunk stage 2 cams

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rob &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Sleeve the block if you are doing that. 12:1 with the thin b20 sleeves is risky. I prefer Toda B's to Crower stage 2's and Eagle rods are the stuff.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I Assume VTEC?? Run 10.5:1 though for the street. By adjusting camgears, you can effectivly alter your dynamic (always changing)compression ratio. Advance intake=more air starts filling the cylinder sooner as the piston goes down the bore. CAUTION don't advance too much- Ive heard 4 deg? The less compression will put less stain on the "thin" sleeeves. I'd think you would be happy with a set of stg 2 crower(63412) or skunk2's stg 2. eagle rods solid 215whp if running Hondata or equivelent

 

Iwould like 250 whp. If i end up sleeving a block i would prefer getting a b18c, and punching it out to 84mm. Also i have been looking at the toda spec b cams, springs, and retainers. Would you think a b20 would be safe at say 11.0:1 to 11.5:1? That should put me close to my goal? Maybe?

Oh i about forgot, yes it will be vtec with a b16 or itr head....

 

if you want 250hp get yourself a turbo....

as a general rule even with itbs your REALLY pushing the upper envelopes of a street motor at 250 hp n/a

 

baslically youd be looking at 85mm+ b18c block 13:1+ cr jun3's or similar cams and itb's along with extensive headwork and a whole lot of tuning to make 250

200 hp however is much more attainable and a good goal imho

you can even get 200 on a 1.8 with some good tuning...

heres an example of a profesionally built motor thats in the 250hp range
a bargain at $15k

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=497891

 

i assume b20 vtec?/
skunk stage 2, tune fine on 93, and sleeve it

 

OK, i got a little to compare to now. Did not realize how extensive 250 hp would be to build...maybe the 200 range would be alot easier on my budget... I do think i want to stay in the 12.0:1-12.5:1 range so guess i will start doing my homework on getting a B18c sleeved.. Any recomendations on sleeves?

 

GE sleeves

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by warwagon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'll let you know on tuning with the high compression as soon as i can get my car finished and back on the street, bout the same as you stated but with sleeves and skunk stage 2 cams </TD></TR></TABLE>
I have 13:1 w/ stock ls sleaves and 83miles (still) on the motor
needs more work too. But I will keep my info posted as I tune/break in.

 

TODA B
Crower stage2

 

why dont you like crower, cause they break?
Damn bigger base circles, Crower

 

i just started breaking mine in, but have hit vtec a couple times, and I ABOUT SPOOGED ON MYSELF, vtec is a whole new world to me, i have only had ls motors until now, and i am in love

 

Still on the drawing board..... Not sure what cams to use, torn between the Toda, and skunk2. The more i hear about toda b's the more i like them. I do know to use the same brand valvetrain, and cams. Homework is a bitch... Worth it in the end i guess..

 

toda B's = good stuff

 

well i took my stage 2' skunks to like 8300 today and holy cow, untuned they pull like a mickey fickey, i ran a 9.1 1/8th with my shitty ls tranny hopefully i'll get er to a dyno soon and put all potential on the ground, and get my a/f tweaked a little

 

Well you could buy a Dart Block that was bored to 85mm and had the extended deck height. Then buy a B16A and transfer all the parts over, execept using custom connecting rods (longer). $2000 for block, ~$1000 for old B16 swap. Then you would have a 1.8L or so engine, but it would have a staggering rod ratio. It would be a little anemic in the lower RPM ranges, but with the right valve train you could take that sucker up 10,000 RPM's. You only need about 130 ft-lbs at 10,000 RPMs to hit 250 HP. Of course the motor would be setup to optimize the 7000-10000 area, so driving around town probably would not be too fun, like in traffic. Unless it was in something lightweight, that could run with an anemic low end. I would definently recommend a B16 tranny or ITR tranny. But as said earlier, you could probably do this with Forced induction. And if you want 200 HP than an H22 would probably be the most direct route to that.

 

OK... I was doing more homework on the B20 tonight. Why cant i just get a LS block and sleeve it to 84mm? From what i read it will cost about the same as a B20 longblock that has weaker sleeves. What is all the hype about "b20" if this is the case? Is it the "b20" stamp on the block? If you guys don't mind i would like you to post what you paid for your b20s and your LS blocks to be sleeved...

 

sleeving a block should cost 750 period with GE sleeves

 

i hear good, and bad about GE sleeves. What do you think about darton sleeves?

 

its 750 for JUST the sleeving but once you factor in the additional costs that go with it like bore/hone and stuff and if you pay to have the motor assembled it gets more expensive. also add in forged pistons and rods too and its alot more than just a stock b20 motor.... also the main point of a b20 is that you dont have to sleeve it , its 84mm outa tha box... id say for sure its cheaper to buy a b20 compared to buyin then sleeving an LS motor... the thing is though that you have to understand the limmitations on a b20 motor, for the goals that you are looking for a sleeved b18c would be the best bet. next would be a sleeved b18b or b20 but why not hte b18b? you could do it though without the sleeving in the b20 you just cant run as high of compression or rev as high..

200 hp and 150 tq though is for sure attainable in a stock sleeved b20 with 11:1 and a decent set of cams

 

thats why i assemble my own motor. honing is at most 200 more.
and ive seen plenty of stock sleeve, b20s run 12.5 compression. u just gotta know how to tune right.

 

I plan on assembling it myself. I want the block sleeved, and honed redy for the pistons. I have made my mind up. I have a friend with a 2000 b18c5 short block with a cracked stock sleeve in #2 cylinder. I think i can get it for like 100 bucks. I will look at it tomorrow and see if it is ok to sleeve, and i will go that route. Thanks for all of your assistance on this...