b20 build up? LS or b20?
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From: East Coast Destruction
starting my b20/vtec build up. I need some help with a parts lists........i figured might as well learn from people who have done it..........gonna piece together a complete motor so anything goes............PLEASE GIVE ME OPINIONS!
If you are going to resleeve an engine, go with the LS and resleeve it to 2.0. If you are not going to touch the engine sleeves, get a B20...
This is becuase you can get an LS block for much cheaper than a B20 block.
This is becuase you can get an LS block for much cheaper than a B20 block.
Never have actually seen B20's crack personally but i would go with the sleeved LS... hehehe http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com/sleeves.htm
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Well the reason I say this, I have several friend's running high compression CRVTEC's anywhere from 12.0:1-12.5:1 and they are all stock sleeved and holding up just fine for the past year... 12.62@107 full interior EK, and a 12.93@107 full interior Teg.... Both are just running high compression JE pistons, one has aftermarket rods, both run Portflow GSR head w/ SK2 IN manifold, sprockets, the EK just has a CTR IN cam (GSR EX), the Teg is running SK2ST2 cams, both run RC 310's (which are too small), the Teg is running Hondata, and the EK is running an ITR ECU and VAFC... The EK's never been dynoed, ONLY tuned by feel, and the Teg made 230whp and 152 torque... Sorry i went on and on and on but yea.. I'm bored still.. hahaha...
Here’s the break down as far as cost efficiency of choosing a b20 or Ls block.
For sleeving applications. Better to use an LS block since It can be bored out to a 2.0L anyway.
Cost is roughly $250 for LS block plus sleeving, we have that at $880.00 for bore/hone/hot tank/deck.
So for about $1130 you get a sleeved 2.0L block or whatever bore size you desire.
If not getting sleeved, the B20 block is a good choice since they can be had for like $750-900.
Overall, it all depends on how far you want to take your motor to. If not going to redo the internals, and you aren’t really going to race it often, the basic b20 is good enough. But if you are going to be adding turbo, changing internals, high compression, etc, might as well invest an additional $300 or so in getting a stronger reinforced sleeved block.
Also Sleeved B20 block is waste of money unless the block is already messed up in the first place. Get an LS.. theyre much cheaper.
Wil
For sleeving applications. Better to use an LS block since It can be bored out to a 2.0L anyway.
Cost is roughly $250 for LS block plus sleeving, we have that at $880.00 for bore/hone/hot tank/deck.
So for about $1130 you get a sleeved 2.0L block or whatever bore size you desire.
If not getting sleeved, the B20 block is a good choice since they can be had for like $750-900.
Overall, it all depends on how far you want to take your motor to. If not going to redo the internals, and you aren’t really going to race it often, the basic b20 is good enough. But if you are going to be adding turbo, changing internals, high compression, etc, might as well invest an additional $300 or so in getting a stronger reinforced sleeved block.
Also Sleeved B20 block is waste of money unless the block is already messed up in the first place. Get an LS.. theyre much cheaper.
Wil
GSR bottom will set you at around $500-700 just for the block. plus sleeving, $1400-1600 total. Kinda pushes it to the non-budget level.
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