B18A Hi rev theory question
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: El Swapo, Mexico, MX
B18A Hi rev theory question
Everyone,
I chose this section, because I think this is the proper fitting.
I am in the process of building a B18A, and am kinda up in the air about whether to go NA, or turbo. No decision as yet.
I DO know that I want to prepare the shortblock (currently underway) for higher than normal RPM. This is going to be a daily driver, but I would like to see maybe 8500-9000 RPM safely. Is this out of the question for a daily driver?
THis is what I have completed already:
1.Portmatched the head, intake IN/OUT, and have merely deburred it some.
2.Machined .020 from the head, and might have to on the block deck.
3.Recut the Valves 3 angle, and lapped the seats.
What else should I do? The only other *real* engine work I have done was to swap heads on a d16A6, and use the stupid TB style DX injection on it. Therefore, I am not totally newbie, but I am kinda still cutting teeth.
I would appreciate some help.
Just basic guidelines for me to start research on is great!
Thanks,
Scott
I chose this section, because I think this is the proper fitting.
I am in the process of building a B18A, and am kinda up in the air about whether to go NA, or turbo. No decision as yet.
I DO know that I want to prepare the shortblock (currently underway) for higher than normal RPM. This is going to be a daily driver, but I would like to see maybe 8500-9000 RPM safely. Is this out of the question for a daily driver?
THis is what I have completed already:
1.Portmatched the head, intake IN/OUT, and have merely deburred it some.
2.Machined .020 from the head, and might have to on the block deck.
3.Recut the Valves 3 angle, and lapped the seats.
What else should I do? The only other *real* engine work I have done was to swap heads on a d16A6, and use the stupid TB style DX injection on it. Therefore, I am not totally newbie, but I am kinda still cutting teeth.
I would appreciate some help.
Just basic guidelines for me to start research on is great!
Thanks,
Scott
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 6,094
Likes: 6
From: PASADENA, CA, USA
Re: B18A Hi rev theory question (CRneXt)
I guess you're not getting any replies because you're the only one who can choose the path of NA or boost. So choose which way you'd like to go and maybe more people can help you.
If you go NA, I'm sure you'll getta lot of replies to go LS/VTEC.
If you go NA, I'm sure you'll getta lot of replies to go LS/VTEC.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 126
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From: El Swapo, Mexico, MX
Re: B18A Hi rev theory question (Katman)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Katman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I guess you're not getting any replies because you're the only one who can choose the path of NA or boost. So choose which way you'd like to go and maybe more people can help you.
If you go NA, I'm sure you'll getta lot of replies to go LS/VTEC.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Still <U>EITHER WAY</U> I WANT TO BE ABLE TO REV 9000 SAFELY...
ARE THERE ANY THINGS I CAN DO TO THE BOTTOM END TO MAKE IT SAFER TO DO THAT? READ THE QUESTION AGAIN.... I mean really, what can be done to a bottom end to make it able to 'rev faster safely?' Doh!
Modified by CRneXt at 6:09 PM 10/1/2003
If you go NA, I'm sure you'll getta lot of replies to go LS/VTEC.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Still <U>EITHER WAY</U> I WANT TO BE ABLE TO REV 9000 SAFELY...
ARE THERE ANY THINGS I CAN DO TO THE BOTTOM END TO MAKE IT SAFER TO DO THAT? READ THE QUESTION AGAIN.... I mean really, what can be done to a bottom end to make it able to 'rev faster safely?' Doh!
Modified by CRneXt at 6:09 PM 10/1/2003
Mad Scientist
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 5,827
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From: tallafizzy, FL state
Re: B18A Hi rev theory question (CRneXt)
ever though about taking anger management classes?
YOUR ANSWER IS HERE:
https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch
YOUR ANSWER IS HERE:
https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,049
Likes: 0
From: Baltimore
Re: B18A Hi rev theory question (mmuller)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mmuller »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ever though about taking anger management classes?
[/url] </TD></TR></TABLE>
Seriously.
You will get a much better response without all the <U>underlining</U>, CAPITAL LETTERS, and the's
[/url] </TD></TR></TABLE>
Seriously.
You will get a much better response without all the <U>underlining</U>, CAPITAL LETTERS, and the
's
Trending Topics
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 482
Likes: 0
From: Lake Orion, MI, 48362
Re: B18A Hi rev theory question (rsbad454)
If you are really wanting to hit 8500-9000 rpm, you would be probably be better starting will a different engine.
Is there a reason you want to hit such high rpm? Technical or just cool-ness factor?
I ask because its REALLY high for an LS motor. Even with a very well ported head, most camshafts fall off before this mark. I think you'd need to be on the crower 405 or Crane #20 region to be making power above 8000 rpm.
That will not be a street motor or a cost effective motor. You would need to do further portwork and machining to the valve seats/retainer area to run those big cams. And need to push compression way up to use them effectively.
I think that a reasonable street motor would be crower 403s, or maybe 404(which I have heard may require some tuning to get it to idle). Those cams should work with the slightly raised compression and mostly stock ports you have. Get cam gears to tune them. With correct bolt ons and engine management, NA you may be about 150hp, which is what a normal GSR will put down without mods.
If you want to go turbo, then go with a turbo cam like the 402T, again with new retainers, etc. CLAY the head, sine you milled it and that cam has a lot of lift.
Sit down and think more about your goals. Not RPM, thats not really useful. Think how much horsepower/torque you want, and what range it will be over. With a properly sized turbo, it won't shift the torque or hp peak much, just amplify it all.
Right now, I'm building my 1990 B18A1.
I am now looking at porting my own head, mildly. I will step the ports, rather than gasket match both sides, to get better anti-reversion characteristics. Mill 0.030 off it, lap the valves. I have crane #12 cams( a tad milder than the crower 403s), stock bottom end, I/H/E(no cat), cam gears, lightened flywheel, exedy organic disc, and am looking at starting off with maybe ericks racing chip for the stock PR4 ecu. No A/C or P/S
I would love to get 150hp/125 wtq :-)
Is there a reason you want to hit such high rpm? Technical or just cool-ness factor?
I ask because its REALLY high for an LS motor. Even with a very well ported head, most camshafts fall off before this mark. I think you'd need to be on the crower 405 or Crane #20 region to be making power above 8000 rpm.
That will not be a street motor or a cost effective motor. You would need to do further portwork and machining to the valve seats/retainer area to run those big cams. And need to push compression way up to use them effectively.
I think that a reasonable street motor would be crower 403s, or maybe 404(which I have heard may require some tuning to get it to idle). Those cams should work with the slightly raised compression and mostly stock ports you have. Get cam gears to tune them. With correct bolt ons and engine management, NA you may be about 150hp, which is what a normal GSR will put down without mods.
If you want to go turbo, then go with a turbo cam like the 402T, again with new retainers, etc. CLAY the head, sine you milled it and that cam has a lot of lift.
Sit down and think more about your goals. Not RPM, thats not really useful. Think how much horsepower/torque you want, and what range it will be over. With a properly sized turbo, it won't shift the torque or hp peak much, just amplify it all.
Right now, I'm building my 1990 B18A1.
I am now looking at porting my own head, mildly. I will step the ports, rather than gasket match both sides, to get better anti-reversion characteristics. Mill 0.030 off it, lap the valves. I have crane #12 cams( a tad milder than the crower 403s), stock bottom end, I/H/E(no cat), cam gears, lightened flywheel, exedy organic disc, and am looking at starting off with maybe ericks racing chip for the stock PR4 ecu. No A/C or P/S
I would love to get 150hp/125 wtq :-)
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 482
Likes: 0
From: Lake Orion, MI, 48362
Re: B18A Hi rev theory question (CRneXt)
Should read the REALLY big all-motor LS thread floating around...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=520581
Not trying to hate, anyway. I just think that if you want 9000 rpm, go with a B16, and sleeve it to get the displacement up.
LS is going to be a lower speed motor.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=520581
Not trying to hate, anyway. I just think that if you want 9000 rpm, go with a B16, and sleeve it to get the displacement up.
LS is going to be a lower speed motor.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 126
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From: El Swapo, Mexico, MX
Re: B18A Hi rev theory question (mmuller)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mmuller »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ever though about taking anger management classes?
YOUR ANSWER IS HERE:
https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch </TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually the reply I made was taken out of context possibly by the insane amount of underlining. One could tell that I had trouble with all the text, and /u and etc, etc...
Sorry if this was mistaken. I try to type with the same emphasis I speak with, but those who have never spoken with me probably wouldn't know how to take that emphasis. I looked at the reply again, and modified it better, so that it wouldn't seem so harsh. I am still kinda unfamiliar with tuning an engine to be what I want it to be. I do know that I want to beat a couple guys around here. Many of whom are chapping me with D16s. My old swap was weak, but he raped me with that Civic D16.
Is there a way that I can beat them with what I have? I know about the bigger engine slower rev up, but a B18 isn't really THAT much bigger is it?
I mean a 1.6 vs. 1.8... The difference must be mostly in the stroke. Am I right?
Thanks everyone for all the info.
Scott
YOUR ANSWER IS HERE:
https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch </TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually the reply I made was taken out of context possibly by the insane amount of underlining. One could tell that I had trouble with all the text, and /u and etc, etc...
Sorry if this was mistaken. I try to type with the same emphasis I speak with, but those who have never spoken with me probably wouldn't know how to take that emphasis. I looked at the reply again, and modified it better, so that it wouldn't seem so harsh. I am still kinda unfamiliar with tuning an engine to be what I want it to be. I do know that I want to beat a couple guys around here. Many of whom are chapping me with D16s. My old swap was weak, but he raped me with that Civic D16.
Is there a way that I can beat them with what I have? I know about the bigger engine slower rev up, but a B18 isn't really THAT much bigger is it?
I mean a 1.6 vs. 1.8... The difference must be mostly in the stroke. Am I right?
Thanks everyone for all the info.
Scott
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,510
Likes: 0
From: Bellingham, WA, USA
Re: B18A Hi rev theory question (CRneXt)
first off, you should not debur the intake side of the head, those burrs help make horsepower by creating turbulence and atomizing the fuel mixture.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,865
Likes: 1
From: Wooster, Ohio, usa
Re: B18A Hi rev theory question (martini)
ok my sejestion. what i was ganna do over the summer but had no money.
get your head port and polished, 3angle valve job, new valves, dual springs, titanium retainers, crower 404 cams, AEM cam gears, aftermarket intake manifold, larger throttle body, and some big injectors,
then build your bottom end.
new bearings, thrusts, all gaskets, new oil pump waterpump, eagle rods, aris, or je pistons,9:5:1 or 9:8:1 and darton sleeves. u can safly redline at 8k 9k u need a vtec motor.
but reving to 8k u should about 160 whp n/a then if u boost this motor. well your whp could be as high as 350-450 whp.
boost the b18 not rev it.
get your head port and polished, 3angle valve job, new valves, dual springs, titanium retainers, crower 404 cams, AEM cam gears, aftermarket intake manifold, larger throttle body, and some big injectors,
then build your bottom end.
new bearings, thrusts, all gaskets, new oil pump waterpump, eagle rods, aris, or je pistons,9:5:1 or 9:8:1 and darton sleeves. u can safly redline at 8k 9k u need a vtec motor.
but reving to 8k u should about 160 whp n/a then if u boost this motor. well your whp could be as high as 350-450 whp.
boost the b18 not rev it.
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