I was reading the archived post on using b18 rods in a d16 block (here https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=390426 ). I was wondering if there is any block work that needs to be done (notching...etc.) other than the shotpeening the rods? I have no idea what that is but I'm sure I can find it. Thanks for helpin' the newb

 

B18= 1.8 liter
d16= 1.6 liter

 

The bores and strokes are different on both, thats what makes the displacement different.

I think I have heard of this hybrid before. The thing to check is the diameters of the holes for the big and small end of the rod, and that the rod is of equal length so that the piston does not go up higher than the deck. Other wise it should fit OK, I doubt a D series has such high tolerences that the difference of the bolt area widths on the big end would cause interference.

Good luck to ya

 

I think the idea here is to get stronger rods that are cheap.

 

The critical factors are the rod length (CTC) and big-end & small-end bore diameter.

The rod lengths are supposedly identical at 5.394".

The big-end bores are also identical....1.89".

The small-end bores are different, as are the piston pins. The D-pins are smaller, so you'd have to use a B- wrist pin and bore out the D-piston (if there's enough material there to take off w/o copmromising structural integrity), or you can rebush the small-end to use a smaller wrist pin.

B- small end bore ID: .8255" - .8260"
B- wrist pin OD: .8265" - .8268"

D- small end bore ID: .746" - .747"
D- wrist pin OD: .7478" - .7480"

 

And the man IN VTEC comes through w/ the info...Thanks alot

 

ive done this before. get the ls rods shotpeened and then you have to shave the big end down on the sides to fit the crank. call crower and get the rebushing kit and youre done.