JDMCRX

iTrader: (2)

I just remebered that my old block i notched the block for the eagle rods for the d series i wonder if ill have to notch mine

Trailz-EX

I just built a D series with eagle ESP rods... had to notch out the bottoms of the cylinders...

I had the cylinders bored .020 i feel that if i had not done that the rods them selves wont fit down the cylinder when you go to assemble the bottom end.
the bearing caps on the rods basically slid down the cylinders making contact on the walls but not scratching them.

it didnt take a whole lot to notch the block to make them fit, like a 1/4 inch in and an 1/8 inch down into the cylinder should be enough.. just do that till they fit, and leave and least an 1/8 of clearance between the rod and where you notched..

i believe that the eagle SIR rods you dont have to notch, but i dont know for sure.

Cray91

I am pretty sure that you have to notch for all of the rods. There is one that is the exception, but for what it takes, just notch it.

Burke

just got done notching a z6 for eagle h-beams

beerbongskickass

http://www.theoldone.com/artic...Ftips/

JDMCRX

iTrader: (2)

Yeah that what i thought rrrr im gonna have to pull the motor out hmm

Trailz-EX

u put the motor together and in the car before at least spinning the cranck to see if it turned? just turn the key and let those nice rods fit themselves into the block!

HA HA DONT DO THAT!

JDMCRX

iTrader: (2)

Lol nah man its not that i live 700km from home and i get late friday nigth and saturday to work on the car thats the prob so for me to put the rods in id have to yank the motor. Thats the part im not liking.

So now the debate is i think im gonna just either sleeve the one that blew up or pull the motor out one weekend and see how much i can get done in one day and so forth.

Trailz-EX

i dont think you can work around the crank your def. gonna have to pull it.. good luck to ya