I did some research and watched a couple vids of a DIY valve adjustment on a b16. I talked to a friend about rotating the crank counter clockwise top put cyl 1 at TDC. Adjust Intake & Exhaust lash on cyl 1. Roatate crank 90 deg TDC #3, adjust Int and Exh. 90 deg cyl #4 adjust Int and Exh. Last 90 deg to cyl #2 adjust Int and Exh. Specs being Exh .008-.007 Int .007-.006

My buddy said that was wrong...he said TDC cyl #1 Adjust Int on cyl#1 and Exh on cyl #4(without rotating the crank and keeping cyl #1 at TDC) once Intake#1 and Exh#4 and adjusted, rotate crank 90 deg TDC #3 cyl. Adjust Int#3 and Exh#2. Rotate crank 90deg TDC cyl#4. Adjust Int#4 and Exh#1. Rotate last 90 deg TDC cyl#2. Adjust Int#2 and Exh #3.

Is this the correct method?

ADJUST

INTAKE 1342
EXHAUST 4213


Every so often I have access to a computer, but do large majority of my research from phone, so sometimes its a lil limited on what sites will actually load for me. If there is a thread that covers this, my apoligies and if so there is a DIY thread w/ good pics, post the link to it please. Thanks in advance.

 

i do each cylinder at a time, as all the valves should be closed when it is at top dead center.

as long as the rocker is off the cam lobe, it really doesn't matter how you do it though.

 

I did the 1st method at the top of the post. All my clearances were off and needed adjusting. I did each cyl at a time and started the car and idle was really rough. >500rpm and struggled to stay running. I thought i might have gone too tight, let the motor cool again, pulled the valve cover, triple checked all of them and they were in spec. I set them all back to how they were before and same thing when I started the car. I took it down the street and it drove absolutely fine until you came to a stop and bad low lumpy idle.

I took it to a shop and 5 'honda' guys stood over the engine bay for an hr scratching their heads. Got no where with them.

Came to work this morning and told my buddy how I did it. He said that is the wrong way. On his first ever valve adjment he did it the same way as I did and got the same exact idle issue. He took it to a shop, asked for a valve lash adjustment. He asked to watch and asked the guy why he adjusted Intake on cyl#1 and exhaust on #4. Guy replied..."cause thats how you do it on these motors with more aggressive cams." Once the guy adjusted his valves using method 2 above, the car's idle was back to normal.

 

sounds like you weren't off the lobe when you adjusted them then.

 

So does that mean I do the second method?

Is there anyone who can chime in with useful advice?

I just want to know if I am supposed to adjust them
INTAKE 1342
EXHAUST 4213

Has anyone done it that way?

 

The helms says do it one cylinder at a time. I tend to follow what it says.

Make sure you're not putting the feeler gauge between the lobe and rocker. I saw a self proclaimed expert doing it this way and he was wondering why it wasn't running right.

 

what? the feeler gauges go between the lobe and the rocker pad.

 

No it doesn't

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...8#post47316838

Different engine but same process

 

So your saying this is wrong?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yv3Ed7VL59E

 

don't know why people have such a hard time with this, juggernaut CTR, if your car ran fine before said valve adjustment, and just had a bit of tick, then obviously you set the valves too tight, and the methods you mentioned are fine to set the valves, i just work on a cylinder at time, doing both the intake and exhaust, and that works fine for most camshafts, but like you stated, depending on the camshaft installed in the engine, you must make sure that the rocker pads are on the base circle of the camshaft for the pair you are adjusting, and for the post that dood put up, that engine in question is a k20, different setup, on a b series, the feeler gauges go between the rocker pad and the camshaft base circle, if you use the method shown in your post you will end up with a noisy valvetrain.

 

Before I even adjusted, i obviously looked what the lash was. I did the adjustment exactly how I was supposed to, or so I think. The clearences were not too tight. Even after it idled like ****, but drove fine, and noise was gone. I let it cool and checked again. They were all the same. So then I set them all back to where they were. Still same idle problem.

I cannot find a thread for adjustment w/ ctr cams. Everyone is telling me it's the same as with any b16. Im starting to not believe that based on what happened and what my buddy told me is the 'correct' way. I just never heard of it that way & cant find anything on it, hence why I need opinions, or strait up fact if that is the way to do it as a second opinion.

Again the car ran fine before this. Valvetrain was a little noisy but it was just intended to be prevenative maint. I just cant see what I am missing.

 

Has anyone adjusted valve lash on a b-series and had a bad idle afterwards? If so did you ever resolve it, and how?

 

well i'll be damned, you're right

 

Anything besides not being off the lobe would cause this issue?

 

Ok finally something!!!
This morning i check all the clearences again. I adjusted a couple that were off. Start the car and same bad lumpy idle. At that point i was like WTF!!! I go take my daughter to school. On the way back, had my foot on the gas to maintain 40 mph. The car started jerking and the tach needle bounced around a lil. Happened again and that time the motor died and a cel finally popped up. Had a paperclip in the car and showed code 15.

IGNITION OUPUT SIGNAL

Gonna check dist igniter, coil, icm, wiring in the dizzy. If that **** doesnt check out then i will check the wiring from ignition to fuse box.
Any other suggestions as to what else to check?
The car still starts, idles bad, and cel will only pop up after the car dies.

 

Realized I never posted the outcome to this....
It was indeed a bad coil and the icm was on its last leg. Replaced both and car idled and ran perfect.
Did the valve adjustment correctly to begin with. Telling my buddy about the idle after the lash adjustment I guess made his brain start wandering w/ his crazy ideas. Glad I listened to the advice on here and didnt adjust them his wack *** way. Thanks to those who helped.

 

You can do the lash adjustment in whatever order you prefer, they just all need to be adjusted the same and properly. As for the ticking, the looser the lash, the louder the valvetrain and the more power you make. The tighter the lash, the quieter the valvetrain. Too tight and you can burn a valve.