So I've got a B16a2 running obd1-P30 Starts first time every time on the button, fast running okay, tickover not good. Ticks over at about 1500-2000, now iv'e cleaned the Iacv, tightened up the fast idle all to no avail.
Car bogs down when moving away almost stalling untill it's cleared so seems like it's rich on tickover also. Also when I start the engine it'll tickover quite low for just a few seconds then I hear the iacv open and it gets faster.
So my question is what is the most likely cause of these symptoms.
Blonda

 

What is "tickover"? I tried using context clues but it seems quite ambiguous.

 

Idle

 

Have you tried actually setting the base idle speed? You could also check for vacuum leaks, depending on size it could actually cause the engine to have a higher idle. Do you have any check engine lights? The more information you give the easier it is to help you.

 

Ive never heard the phrase "ticks over" and you said it 4 times.

 

It's a UK / US thing, seperated by a common language, here in the UK we say tickover or idle both mean the same thing.

Anyway, here's the thing, I put a Honda B16A2 engine obd1 with p30 ecu in a classic mini and used a tried and tested wiring system.
So far so good, engine starts first time every time but after about 2-3 seconds of low "IDLE" around 500-600 I hear the iacv open, air
rushing in and up she goes to about 1500 rpm. Also at the same time I get a mil light code 23 I think which is Knock sensor, I have replaced the knock sensor still no change. I have cleaned out the iacv and set base idle screwed right in, also screwed the fast idle right in. The car is very difficult to drive at low speed it almost stalls when moving away but then gradually clears itself it's like it is way too rich at low rpm.
Blonda

 

why are you running a b16a2 with a P30?

 

You need to actually set your idle the correct way... then proceed from there. Screwing it "in all the way" forces the IACV to over compensate and leads to other issues. Here is a very basic write-up on how to deal with some of the idle issues:

https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...-here-2127246/

I am sure there are much better ones out there, but you get the idea. Also, the P30 ECU isn't a problem to run in place of the P2T ECU...

 

I think that the fast idle valve may be the problem either stuck or not getting the heat from the water to heat the wax and close it as engine warms up. So going to strip it out clean and see what happens.

 

What ECU would you suggest? I want one without ELD (Electronic Load Detector) and without immobilser.

 

Think I may be on it at last, does anybody know what the symptoms of a bad ECT sensor would be and how it would affect idle?.....

 

I'VE SORTED IT YEEEE-HAAAAAAAA

 

Was it caused by your ect sensor being faulty?

 

Oh there are people out there after all....
No nothing to do with the ECT, it was a connector in one of the ECU sockets D17 for the MAP signal not making a connection, UNBELIEVABLE.
Purrs like a ***** cat now...