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so i put my swap in last week, i wired mpfi, ad vtec, my car will start but it wont stay on, and it on revs to 3k but it is running terrible, it sounds like its only running on 2 cylinders, but all four plugs are firing, im not sure if i messed up the wiring, or if it is a vacum leak, or what. anybody run into this before, i really need help
thanks

 

It been a long time since I fixed a honda, but check MAP and TPS sensors you might of put it on the wrong one.

 

ill try that

 

i tryed switching the plugs still no difference, car wont stay on, and wont revover 3k, seems like it is have a rough time getting to 3 aswell

 

help

 

Try using someone dist. and see if it fix the problem or check if the timing is off.

 

the car is only running on 2 cylinders,

 

DO you have any check engine lights? Do you have power to the injectors? Do you have the spark plug wires installed correctly? Many things to check much more info needed.

 

Make sure the plug wires are connected to the distributor cap in the correct order. Here's a pic: http://rywire.com/store/faqdesk_info...3af2fbf9d43345 You are sure all four plugs have a strong spark or just that they have spark? How did you test them? Make sure all injectors are firing. What do the spark plugs look like? Are any plugs wet with fuel when you check them after running the car? Is your coolant reservoir bubbling after you run the car for a minute? How did you determine that the problem is with cylinders 2 & 3 (mentioned in other thread)?

 

brand new plugs and wires, they are wet with fuel, there is no bubbling,no cel's. now the car wont start, when car would run i pulled 2 and 3 spark plug out and no change car kept running

 

If those cylinders are getting a strong spark and the injectors are firing then it's either the distributor or compression. Anything preventing combustion would have the same effect when you remove the spark plugs. For example, if the cylinders aren't firing due to low compression and you disconnect the spark plugs, they will still not fire. Here's how you check the spark:

Disable the fuel injectors and get a new or known good spark plug. Set the gap of this plug to your vehicle's specifications and make sure it is clean afterward. Wear gloves (welding gloves work great), preferably with latex or nitrile gloves underneath, and remove a spark plug wire from its plug. Connect the good plug to the end of the wire and hold the plastic deep-well tube at the very tip of the wire end with the threads of the plug touching bare metal on the valve cover. Have an assistant crank the motor while you watch the spark, carefully keeping all body parts away from the plug, motor and car body. Different types of plugs have different colored sparks but usually a good spark is a thick, strong flow of bright pink or is at least bright. Little blue or pink "lightning bolts" indicate a weak ignition. Check all four wires. If the sparks at all of the wires are weak, try holding the threads of the plug against the battery negative post to see if the better ground makes a stronger spark. This will test your entire ignition.

You can make sure the injectors are firing by either holding a stethescope to each and listen for clicks (it can be difficult to hear the clicks when cranking the motor) or borrow a noid light set from a parts store. I will say that it's unlikely that the injectors are the problem but they are easily checked. Once you've checked your spark, the next likely cause is the distributor sensors. You can test them by checking the resistance of each but it's not a 100% accurate test- just because the resistance value is within spec doesn't necessarily mean they are good. If one tests out of spec, however, then it is definately bad.

If your dizzy is bad, I apologize for making you go through all the tests when that was your first guess. More often than not, telling people to just start replacing parts until they find the problem is a bad idea.

 

Hope you get it going man. Good luck!