I just bought what I think is a b16 vtec motor(from a 92 civic si) and I`m going to drop it into a civic pretty soon.What I`m wondering is what mods can I do to the motor to get extra hp+ before I swap her into a civic?? I don`t know to much about hondas cause I just starting to get into the import car scene since I`m a true sportbiker at heart....Any advice would be great..

 

basics i/h/e at first.
then........ TURBO!

 

Why spend all that money, then throw it away and turbo??????
PICK A PATH TO FOLLOW FIRST! Decide now what your goals for the motor are, either plan for NA, or turbo, but don't just start putting parts on your car without a game plan, that will waste MAJOR $$$$$$$$$$$

 

ughh nothing really unless your going to rebuild it or take it apart....basically the only thing you can do now thats easy is flywheel and clutch and pullys...

cams you can do when the engine is in the car as well as valvesprings...you can also do valvesprings when the engine is outside of the car which is a tad easier.

 

a 92 civic si came with only D series engines. (D16zy6??? i think)
that is a vtec motor, but has 33-35 LESS crank hp than a B16.

 

Hey, there Mr. slash block one whatever you call yourself get a clue hondas are Japanese, where do you think their best products go? Did you know the B16 came out in '89 in the Civic SIR? I like EF's they have lotsa room in the engine compartment and handle like a dream when set-up properly. I sure he meant SIR by the way.

 

i just wanted to make sure this guy know what he has, i have known people that bought things innocently, and got screwed over. SO, on that note if it's a d16... sorry, if it's a B16, go with high compression...it's very nice

QUOTE] Hey, there Mr. slash block one whatever you call yourself get a clue hondas are Japanese, where do you think their best products go? .[/QUOTE]

it's ones and the letter i's thank you much..., you're right, hondas are japanese!!!! i think that is a moot (irrelevant for those who dunno...)point.

 

If you truely have a B16A engine, here's some moderate upgrade suggestions you can perform before you drop the motor in:

1) Clutch.
Get a brand new OEM stock or race clutch (you choose). You don't wanna keep a used clutch in your engine (the one that came with it), who knows when it will go out. Changing clutches sucks when the motor is IN the car also.

2) Lightened Flywheel.
Getting one of these is a must!!! either get your stock f.wheel shaved down to about 13lbs or just go aftermarket one. Although getting your stock f.wheel lightened is cheaper. You can never go wrong with a lightened flywheel, you'll be suprised with the snappy throttle response you'll have with one.

3) Type-R valve springs & Titanium Retainers.
You only need these parts if you plan to rev your engine past it's stock redline. If not, the you dont need these parts.....but then again, having light engine components isn't bad either. The 'R' springs go hand in hand with 'R' cams, for the increase in lift & duration the camshafts put out. Titanium retainers help 'lighten up' the valvetrain (kinda like a lightened flywheel for your valvetrain). Things tend to work easier when weight is removed.

4) Type-R cams + adjustable camsprockets.
ITR or CTR.....whichever you can't go wrong with OEM race camshafts, either work just as good. or you can just go with some other aftermarket camshafts (toda, spoon, etc). Its good to have adj.camsprockets in case one day you'll have time to go dyno tune your car, you can get the sprockets dialed in at the perfect spot.

5) Reprogrammed ECU.
To take advantage of the bumped powerband which the camshafts provide. Raised powerband means higher redline, you'll need to the ecu programming to be changed.....btw I offer this service.

6) Type-R intake manifold + intake pipe.
Helps intake breathing espeically in the 6000rpm+ range; power is felt consistant all the way to redline with the use of this manifold + R cams. It's a good idea to get an air intake system that's a proven power maker also. Iceman and AEM make some good intake systems. Or you can just stick with teh traditional stock intake pipe + airbox and get some aftermarket drop-in filter for the stock airbox..its up to you.

7) Header + Exhaust system.
Get some kind of power proven header. I personally use the JG/Edelbrock header (had the flange modd'd to 2.5" size). If you want to stick with OEM, the JDM 95-97 or CTR 421 exh. manifold is good to use, but it's a little heavy due to the cast iron upper half. Or you can go with a JDM 98+ 4-1 header which will give you good top end power....althought your low end might feel a bit laggy with the 4-1, 421 is better (imo) for a dailydriver setup cuz of the better midrange power. You'll want to mate this header up to some kind of exhaust system of your choosing. Mandrel bent piping is the best way to go, no krinkles in the piping to interrupt exhaust flow. If you go with a header that has a 2.5" collector size, you might want to get full 2.5" sized piping all the way back to the muffler section.


....that's about it. With all that on your B16, it should be pretty enjoyable.