B-Series Identity Crisis
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B-Series Identity Crisis
Good morning, I have an turboed LS Vtec B18 EG Hatch with bad rings, tons of blow by, motor is pretty toast by now. It has some great parts on it and the chassis is in great condition overall. I recently picked up a EK coupe with a turboed B20 Vtec, completely gutted chassis, not going to try to save it. The B20 is in fantastic shape, looks like a fresh build on a sleeved block. My intention was to use the best parts from both cars, make a great engine, and put in the EG. Here's the problem, it feels like the Frankenstein engine I'm about to put together doesn't know what it's doing.
Putting the parts together from both cars, It's going to be a sleeved B20 with 85.5 mm bore Wiseco 13:1 dome pistons. Build GSR head with Supertech valvetrain and retainers. Fuel supporting mods, flex fuel, rails, injectors, pump, etc. 3 Inch exhaust. All the supporting mods are there, but the compression ratio is making me nervous about running this car with a turbo, even though the previous owner of the B20 Vtec ran it with a turbo. I'm looking for advice on where to go with this engine. My intentions and goals were to have a weekend street seldom track car, not daily, no A/C, but might run P/S. I was shooting for 350-400 reliable HP boosted. I hadn't done much research in N/A but based on what I've seen 250 HP would be a good goal. Open to answering any questions!
Putting the parts together from both cars, It's going to be a sleeved B20 with 85.5 mm bore Wiseco 13:1 dome pistons. Build GSR head with Supertech valvetrain and retainers. Fuel supporting mods, flex fuel, rails, injectors, pump, etc. 3 Inch exhaust. All the supporting mods are there, but the compression ratio is making me nervous about running this car with a turbo, even though the previous owner of the B20 Vtec ran it with a turbo. I'm looking for advice on where to go with this engine. My intentions and goals were to have a weekend street seldom track car, not daily, no A/C, but might run P/S. I was shooting for 350-400 reliable HP boosted. I hadn't done much research in N/A but based on what I've seen 250 HP would be a good goal. Open to answering any questions!
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From: Texas
Re: B-Series Identity Crisis
I'm guessing you don't have pictures of the B20 sleeves. The B20 blocks have a different, weaker saddle design than other B series engines which makes them more susceptible to sleeve failure, even if aftermarket ones are installed. I know some machine shops will actually refuse to sleeve B20 engines due to failure risk. 85.5mm is also a huge bore and is going to leave you with paper thin walls, and 13:1 is very high compression for a turbo engine... you will need good fuel E85 or 93 with water/meth at a minimum - and your tuning will need to be very good.
If the B20 currently makes good compression and doesn't have leakdown then I'd #SendIt and make sure you get a good tune, it could still hold up well if it has actually been sleeved. Save your LSVTEC engine and get it rebuilt when you have time/money, if anything happens to the B20 block on the B20V you'll have a backup.
If you have a full list of the parts in each engine, please list the full builds for both. I'm curious what cams you're working with too.
If the B20 currently makes good compression and doesn't have leakdown then I'd #SendIt and make sure you get a good tune, it could still hold up well if it has actually been sleeved. Save your LSVTEC engine and get it rebuilt when you have time/money, if anything happens to the B20 block on the B20V you'll have a backup.
If you have a full list of the parts in each engine, please list the full builds for both. I'm curious what cams you're working with too.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 13
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Re: B-Series Identity Crisis
I'm guessing you don't have pictures of the B20 sleeves. The B20 blocks have a different, weaker saddle design than other B series engines which makes them more susceptible to sleeve failure, even if aftermarket ones are installed. I know some machine shops will actually refuse to sleeve B20 engines due to failure risk. 85.5mm is also a huge bore and is going to leave you with paper thin walls, and 13:1 is very high compression for a turbo engine... you will need good fuel E85 or 93 with water/meth at a minimum - and your tuning will need to be very good.
If the B20 currently makes good compression and doesn't have leakdown then I'd #SendIt and make sure you get a good tune, it could still hold up well if it has actually been sleeved. Save your LSVTEC engine and get it rebuilt when you have time/money, if anything happens to the B20 block on the B20V you'll have a backup.
If you have a full list of the parts in each engine, please list the full builds for both. I'm curious what cams you're working with too.
If the B20 currently makes good compression and doesn't have leakdown then I'd #SendIt and make sure you get a good tune, it could still hold up well if it has actually been sleeved. Save your LSVTEC engine and get it rebuilt when you have time/money, if anything happens to the B20 block on the B20V you'll have a backup.
If you have a full list of the parts in each engine, please list the full builds for both. I'm curious what cams you're working with too.
Here are the parts...
LS/Vtec Engine
B18B1 Stock Shortblock
GSR ported head
Supertech valves and retainers
Skunk2 Pro Intake Manifold Clone
Go Autoworks 3 inch downpipe
Go Autoworks Exhaust Manifold
Ebay Intercooler
Ebay GT3076R Turbo
1320 3 Inch Exhaust
GSR Cams
Injector Dynamic ID1050X Injectors
AEM Fuel Rail
AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator
Hondata S300
B20 Vtec
Sleeved B20Z2
Wiseco 85.5 mm 13:1 pistons
Unknown rods, bearing, crank
Morose Oil Pan
B16 head
Supertech Valves and Retainers
Unknown Cams
Skunk2 Pro Intake Manifold
Side exit exhaust
Ebay Turbo
Golden Eagle Fuel Rail
K Tuned Fuel Pressure Regulator
Unknown injectors
ARP Headstuds
Both cars had some kind of breather catch can set up.
If there's anything missig it probably slipped my mind I typed this mobile on a hurry haha so sending it on the turbo is your suggestion?
Last edited by Avrenary; Jun 14, 2023 at 12:15 PM.
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Re: B-Series Identity Crisis
Did a good amount of research, I think I'm leaning towards building out the B20 Vtec all motor mainly in the name of reliability. I'd have to scrap the fabbed up exhaust for the turbo setup and probably purchase headers and cams... not sure what else I'm missing. I'd probably do Skunk2 Pro2 cams and PLM big tube headers. I only had turbo'ed cars in the past so I'm afraid of the car not being as fast as I'm hoping to achieve. I'm still looking for input if anyone has any, I appreciate Chance EG for pointing me in the right direction!
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 3,816
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From: Texas
Re: B-Series Identity Crisis
Pro2 cams are a good option to go with. I think going all motor with that engine will still yield a very quick and enjoyable car, and will certainly help keep things a little more simple.
Pairing with a close ratio transmission like a B16 or ITR gearing will make a big difference, I'd avoid LS or GSR gear ratios. If you can get something similar to a B16 or ITR trans, even ideally one with a 4.7 final drive, that car will be delightfully responsive on the street.
Good luck!
Pairing with a close ratio transmission like a B16 or ITR gearing will make a big difference, I'd avoid LS or GSR gear ratios. If you can get something similar to a B16 or ITR trans, even ideally one with a 4.7 final drive, that car will be delightfully responsive on the street.
Good luck!
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