AUTO ECU in a MANUAL
Will a auto ecu from a 95 Integra LS, work in my 94 Intergra LS. My ecu got jacked, and I can get this one for $50. Is it worth it, or should I jest wait until a manual ecu comes around. Will using this ecu throw me a check engine light, and any possible problems you can think of would be great. ie a/f, redline, rev, etc. Also will a radiator from an auto work in my manual. They just jack the wierdest things. Thanks in advance
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HardLowrdRanger »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That ecu will work fine and it's very easy to convert to manual if you want to get rid of your check engine light...</TD></TR></TABLE>
What ? Where did you get that info from ? No an automatic ecu will not work fine. Your car will throw a check engine light and the rev limiter might be set early. Wait and get the manual ecu. As far as the radiator goes, yes it will work.
What ? Where did you get that info from ? No an automatic ecu will not work fine. Your car will throw a check engine light and the rev limiter might be set early. Wait and get the manual ecu. As far as the radiator goes, yes it will work.
yes the auto radiator will work just dont connect the oil cooler on the bottom of the radiator. As for ecu it will throw a code for auto lock up solenoid. try using a dx ecu as it will work for you
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What ? Where did you get that info from ? No an automatic ecu will not work fine. Your car will throw a check engine light and the rev limiter might be set early. Wait and get the manual ecu. As far as the radiator goes, yes it will work.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No... somebody needs to some homework or some real world testing... As I stated... You can easily convert it to manual to get rid of the check engine light... The ecu setup for auto or manual will run the car just fine... Also, I see that you have a 90 crx... You may be under the impression that the ECU needs new software to be converted to manual... That is true for OBD0, but not OBD1... OBD1 is converted to manual via jumpers on the board... So... Do your homework next time before posting incorrect info and claiming someone doesn't know what they're talking about...
James
What ? Where did you get that info from ? No an automatic ecu will not work fine. Your car will throw a check engine light and the rev limiter might be set early. Wait and get the manual ecu. As far as the radiator goes, yes it will work.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No... somebody needs to some homework or some real world testing... As I stated... You can easily convert it to manual to get rid of the check engine light... The ecu setup for auto or manual will run the car just fine... Also, I see that you have a 90 crx... You may be under the impression that the ECU needs new software to be converted to manual... That is true for OBD0, but not OBD1... OBD1 is converted to manual via jumpers on the board... So... Do your homework next time before posting incorrect info and claiming someone doesn't know what they're talking about...
James
He did not ask how if it needed to be converted, he asked would an auto ecu work in his manual teg. Which if you just slap the ecu in won't work correctly. If he said could you modify a auto ecu to work perfect with a manual, the answer would be yes.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He did not ask how if it needed to be converted, he asked would an auto ecu work in his manual teg. Which if you just slap the ecu in won't. If he said could you modify a auto ecu to work perfect with a manual, the answer would be yes. But he did not ask that. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually it will run the car just fine... It will throw a check engine light... It will not put it in limp mode or cause any problems... And whether he converts it or not, it WILL run the car just fine... which IS what he asked... Thanks...
James
Actually it will run the car just fine... It will throw a check engine light... It will not put it in limp mode or cause any problems... And whether he converts it or not, it WILL run the car just fine... which IS what he asked... Thanks...

James
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HardLowrdRanger »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Actually it will run the car just fine... It will throw a check engine light... It will not put it in limp mode or cause any problems... And whether he converts it or not, it WILL run the car just fine... which IS what he asked... Thanks...
James</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok man, no one is gonna win. But he asked if it would throw a check engine light, which it will. And if the engine light is on, the car will go in limp mode.
Actually it will run the car just fine... It will throw a check engine light... It will not put it in limp mode or cause any problems... And whether he converts it or not, it WILL run the car just fine... which IS what he asked... Thanks...

James</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok man, no one is gonna win. But he asked if it would throw a check engine light, which it will. And if the engine light is on, the car will go in limp mode.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Ok man, no one is gonna win. But he asked if it would throw a check engine light, which it will. And if the engine light is on, the car will go in limp mode.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Now you're just being ridiculous... That is completely incorrect... I chip, tune, and work with ECUs all day long... This shouldn't be an argument... Please check your facts...
Ok man, no one is gonna win. But he asked if it would throw a check engine light, which it will. And if the engine light is on, the car will go in limp mode.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Now you're just being ridiculous... That is completely incorrect... I chip, tune, and work with ECUs all day long... This shouldn't be an argument... Please check your facts...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HardLowrdRanger »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Now you're just being ridiculous... That is completely incorrect... I chip, tune, and work with ECUs all day long... This shouldn't be an argument... Please check your facts...</TD></TR></TABLE>
So your saying if the check engine light is on your car don't go into safe mode ? I know there are a few codes that will not send your car into safe mode, but most of them do. And if you pull a lock up code you car does go into limp mode.
Now you're just being ridiculous... That is completely incorrect... I chip, tune, and work with ECUs all day long... This shouldn't be an argument... Please check your facts...</TD></TR></TABLE>
So your saying if the check engine light is on your car don't go into safe mode ? I know there are a few codes that will not send your car into safe mode, but most of them do. And if you pull a lock up code you car does go into limp mode.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
So your saying if the check engine light is on your car don't go into safe mode ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
When you are in limp mode the check engine light is on... But just because the check engine light is on doesn't mean you're in limp mode... Limp mode is Code 0... You're saying throwing a code for auto tranny sol puts you in limp mode? If you care for more info I don't mind explaining it to you, but please let the guy have his thread back...
So your saying if the check engine light is on your car don't go into safe mode ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
When you are in limp mode the check engine light is on... But just because the check engine light is on doesn't mean you're in limp mode... Limp mode is Code 0... You're saying throwing a code for auto tranny sol puts you in limp mode? If you care for more info I don't mind explaining it to you, but please let the guy have his thread back...
There are certain CELs that will make your car go limp (like a dead ECU, or a squirrel stuck in the throttle body...) and wont even let you rev past 3K-4K rpm. There are other problems that will trigger a CEL, but the car will run fine.
Bottom line, an auto ecu will run a manual car fine even without the conversion. It will trigger a CEL but it will not render your car useless.
Bottom line, an auto ecu will run a manual car fine even without the conversion. It will trigger a CEL but it will not render your car useless.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rtzcom »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Bottom line, an auto ecu will run a manual car fine even without the conversion. It will trigger a CEL but it will not render your car useless.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats all I was trying to get across. But I am pretty sure the fuel cut off will be set early.
Bottom line, an auto ecu will run a manual car fine even without the conversion. It will trigger a CEL but it will not render your car useless.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats all I was trying to get across. But I am pretty sure the fuel cut off will be set early.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Thats all I was trying to get across.</TD></TR></TABLE>
And I'm pretty sure I already did..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HardLowrdRanger »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> That ecu will work fine and it's very easy to convert to manual if you want to get rid of your check engine light...</TD></TR></TABLE>
So that whole thing was useless, but at least you have some new facts on the subject... Take it easy man...
Thats all I was trying to get across.</TD></TR></TABLE>
And I'm pretty sure I already did..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HardLowrdRanger »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> That ecu will work fine and it's very easy to convert to manual if you want to get rid of your check engine light...</TD></TR></TABLE>
So that whole thing was useless, but at least you have some new facts on the subject... Take it easy man...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HardLowrdRanger »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And I'm pretty sure I already did..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You never said it would throw a check engine light in your first post, and you never said the fuel cut off would be set sooner.
And I'm pretty sure I already did..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You never said it would throw a check engine light in your first post, and you never said the fuel cut off would be set sooner.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You never said it would throw a check engine light in your first post, and you never said the fuel cut off would be set sooner.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, since I stated that you could convert it to get rid of the check engine light that would mean it'd have to be on... And the rev limit won't be lower... Anyway... as I stated, please take this to IM... Thanks
You never said it would throw a check engine light in your first post, and you never said the fuel cut off would be set sooner.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, since I stated that you could convert it to get rid of the check engine light that would mean it'd have to be on... And the rev limit won't be lower... Anyway... as I stated, please take this to IM... Thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
So your saying if the check engine light is on your car don't go into safe mode ? I know there are a few codes that will not send your car into safe mode, but most of them do. And if you pull a lock up code you car does go into limp mode.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not all the time.
When using an A/T ecu in a M/T vehicle the ecu doesn't go into LIMP mode. Yes, you get CODE 19 (lock solenoid for auto trans), but the car will run normal (won't run rich ala LIMP mode).
Early redline is just that.....early redline, because most A/T ecu's are set with an earlier redline from the factory. The powerband dies off earlier than an M/T engine cuz A/T engines are designed like that from the factory....mainly due A/T gearbox and weaker camshaft profile.
why is there bickering on this subject? we're all here to learn & let live, right ?
So your saying if the check engine light is on your car don't go into safe mode ? I know there are a few codes that will not send your car into safe mode, but most of them do. And if you pull a lock up code you car does go into limp mode.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not all the time.
When using an A/T ecu in a M/T vehicle the ecu doesn't go into LIMP mode. Yes, you get CODE 19 (lock solenoid for auto trans), but the car will run normal (won't run rich ala LIMP mode).
Early redline is just that.....early redline, because most A/T ecu's are set with an earlier redline from the factory. The powerband dies off earlier than an M/T engine cuz A/T engines are designed like that from the factory....mainly due A/T gearbox and weaker camshaft profile.
why is there bickering on this subject? we're all here to learn & let live, right ?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Katman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Not all the time.
When using an A/T ecu in a M/T vehicle the ecu doesn't go into LIMP mode. Yes, you get CODE 19 (lock solenoid for auto trans), but the car will run normal (won't run rich ala LIMP mode).
Early redline is just that.....early redline, because most A/T ecu's are set with an earlier redline from the factory. The powerband dies off earlier than an M/T engine cuz A/T engines are designed like that from the factory....mainly due A/T gearbox and weaker camshaft profile.
why is there bickering on this subject? we're all here to learn & let live, right ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
True, but if you do get that code in a vtec equipped car, vtec will not engage, so thats not running normal. Either way the guy got his answered, I just wanted to make sure if you do use an a/t ecu, you will throw a code.
Not all the time.
When using an A/T ecu in a M/T vehicle the ecu doesn't go into LIMP mode. Yes, you get CODE 19 (lock solenoid for auto trans), but the car will run normal (won't run rich ala LIMP mode).
Early redline is just that.....early redline, because most A/T ecu's are set with an earlier redline from the factory. The powerband dies off earlier than an M/T engine cuz A/T engines are designed like that from the factory....mainly due A/T gearbox and weaker camshaft profile.
why is there bickering on this subject? we're all here to learn & let live, right ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
True, but if you do get that code in a vtec equipped car, vtec will not engage, so thats not running normal. Either way the guy got his answered, I just wanted to make sure if you do use an a/t ecu, you will throw a code.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
but if you do get that code in a vtec equipped car, vtec will not engage, so thats not running normal. Either way the guy got his answered, I just wanted to make sure if you do use an a/t ecu, you will throw a code. </TD></TR></TABLE>
wrong.
VTEC will work.
I chip ecu's myself + test them out all the time in my personal car.
This is how I know.
Right.
about the guy getting his answer.
So, accord2fix
You CAN use an AT ecu in your car to get around. You will have a check engine light for lock solenoid (Code 19) & an ealier redline though, but it will not hurt your car's engine in any way and will allow you to get around town. Its up to you if you wanna wait for an MT ecu or not.
but if you do get that code in a vtec equipped car, vtec will not engage, so thats not running normal. Either way the guy got his answered, I just wanted to make sure if you do use an a/t ecu, you will throw a code. </TD></TR></TABLE>
wrong.
VTEC will work.
I chip ecu's myself + test them out all the time in my personal car.
This is how I know.
Right.
about the guy getting his answer.
So, accord2fix
You CAN use an AT ecu in your car to get around. You will have a check engine light for lock solenoid (Code 19) & an ealier redline though, but it will not hurt your car's engine in any way and will allow you to get around town. Its up to you if you wanna wait for an MT ecu or not.
I do the Auto to manual conversion with a pair of needle nose pliers and some excess agression.
It takes about 60 seconds including the time to remove the cover on the ECU.
GRAB RP17. TWIST. CRACK. Done.
put screws back in.
The existence of ignorance like that displayed in this thread is exactly why I am not a regular at honda tech. After their first swap, everybody is a genius. 90 Black CRX, go paint some valve covers for riceboys and leave the ECU work to people who have 3/4 of a brain.
Step to that.
Edit: yes I know I'm an ******* and no I don't give a **** what you have to say. Don't bother posting a reply to this thread because *I* won't be reading it. I'm not interested in kissing *** or pleasing people. I'm interested in genuinely advancing DIY ECU modification, and I'll **** on your face and your post if it means that more people will learn the truth. If you actually feel like learning, come over to PGMFI.ORG, read, ask questions, and try to help others with accurate information.
Modified by blundar at 5:27 PM 7/15/2003
Modified by blundar at 5:29 PM 7/15/2003
It takes about 60 seconds including the time to remove the cover on the ECU.
GRAB RP17. TWIST. CRACK. Done.
put screws back in.
The existence of ignorance like that displayed in this thread is exactly why I am not a regular at honda tech. After their first swap, everybody is a genius. 90 Black CRX, go paint some valve covers for riceboys and leave the ECU work to people who have 3/4 of a brain.
Step to that.

Edit: yes I know I'm an ******* and no I don't give a **** what you have to say. Don't bother posting a reply to this thread because *I* won't be reading it. I'm not interested in kissing *** or pleasing people. I'm interested in genuinely advancing DIY ECU modification, and I'll **** on your face and your post if it means that more people will learn the truth. If you actually feel like learning, come over to PGMFI.ORG, read, ask questions, and try to help others with accurate information.
Modified by blundar at 5:27 PM 7/15/2003
Modified by blundar at 5:29 PM 7/15/2003
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rtzcom »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There are certain CELs that will make your car go limp (like a dead ECU, or a squirrel stuck in the throttle body...) and wont even let you rev past 3K-4K rpm. There are other problems that will trigger a CEL, but the car will run fine.
Bottom line, an auto ecu will run a manual car fine even without the conversion. It will trigger a CEL but it will not render your car useless.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep what he said. it will give you 1 code and that's it. it will drive fine.
i personally would wait a bit and get the right ECU (Manual LS), but if you need to drive the car right away then pick up the Auto LS ECU and it will drive fine.
conversion on the OBD1 ECU from Auto to Manual is very easy, just 1 jumper needs to be switched as was already mentioned.
Bottom line, an auto ecu will run a manual car fine even without the conversion. It will trigger a CEL but it will not render your car useless.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep what he said. it will give you 1 code and that's it. it will drive fine.
i personally would wait a bit and get the right ECU (Manual LS), but if you need to drive the car right away then pick up the Auto LS ECU and it will drive fine.
conversion on the OBD1 ECU from Auto to Manual is very easy, just 1 jumper needs to be switched as was already mentioned.
I had the auto/manaul conversion and I was running my old auto P75 ECU on my new manual and the car drove perfect other than the Check engine light, I brought it at least up to 7k , my auto readline was 6800k.
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