I pulled the head off my LS/VTEC last week and a couple of the studs made a metallic binding type noise, and werent "smooth" as I was loosening.

Going back together I had basically the same type of noise and clunkiness while torquing.

I checked all of the studs were bottomed out in the block.

Any ideas? Advice?

did you make sure the thread holes were cleaned out? flip the block over and spray some break clean in the holes and clean them out and/or us air to blow them out

The block is still in the car, I have the correct tap so I'll pull them back out and chase all of the threads to be sure.

yea, might be a goof idea, after your done, I would still spray some clean down there and blow it out, and go in with an OEM bolt to make sure they are good, so the ARP bolt doesn't get messed up if something is wrong

they made noise loosening right? that's not necessarily a problem esp. on an engine that's got some mileage on it. i would certainly clean and re-lube everything per ARP recommendations to be sure you don't have any noise or binding when re-torquing.

do NOT tap the threads. taps are for CUTTING new threads ONLY. get a rethead kit if your going to do that. they look just like a tap hiwever the thread edges are "rounder" and ment to straighten threads out.

btw ihave had 3 sets if arp's "squeek" like your saying and they still running today

these tools also go by the name "thread chasers." and i'll second that. chasing threads with a tap in a critical spot like that is not a good idea, especially in soft aluminum.

what I've done in the past is take an old, spare head bolt and cut grooves length-wise on the threads with an angle grinder. the grooves give somewhere for the crud in the tapped hole to go. I thread it all the way in and then back out by hand. i repeat this until the grooves come out clean.

well sorry but they are not called thread chasers.


not trying to have a pissing contest just making sure ppl know correct tech name for them

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools...e=snapon-store

The cracking sound when the fasteners are being broken loose is nothing to worry about. When the fasteners make a cracking sound while torquing them down you can get inaccurate torque measurements. Ideally, you don't want that to happen. ARP makes a lube specifically for their fasteners to get accurate torque measurements, it helps prevent what you describe. You might consider looking into it or try some assembly lube on your fastener threads.

the guys at snapon may not use the term but that is another common name for that tool. I thought it might be more helpful to tell the op what the guy at the tool counter in Smalltown, USA is likely to call it.

Like at Sears.

its common to have them crack loud when you first break them loose, and maybe have some weird squealing when taking them out.

when you re assemble, motor oil on the threads going into the block i would tighten them to between 8 and 12 ftlbs into the block. the threads the nut goes on gets the moly lube and on a b series i recommend doing 3 steps at 25/50/80 ftlbs. its been doing the trick for me for half a decade

i have never lubed the threads going into the block, i dont think thats a good idea.

Youre supposed to lube the threads on the bolts/studs.
Also that metallic noise is normal. Youll hear a few metallic pops and creaks, I think its from the nuts/bolts rubbing on the washers.