I'm trying to throw my head on, I have a d16z6 block, and a d16Y8 head, in my research, i found i had to get the studs to match the head. (except 1 custon one in the corner, which i got as well)

I screwed the studs all the way down until the couldn't go any further in the block... that doesn't leave enough thread for4 the nut to sit fully threaded on the top portion. It only has maybe 2/3 of the threads on the nut. This can't be right, whats my problem, help!

 

OK, I looked up factory bolt specs. the Z6 bolts (10x140) are 19.5mm longer then the Y8 bolts (10x120.5) Sooo, I assume all the advice to get the bolts that match the head is wrong.
I'll be getting Z6 ARP's and will report back if they work, but from these specs, it should fix the problem.

Please post if you have anything to add!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Enzo Speed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So to recap:

1. z6 block + z6 head = need z6 studs; y8 studs will not be long enough.

2. z6 block + y8 head = need z6 studs + (8) extra ARP washers; y8 studs will not be long enough.

3. y8 block + y8 head = need y8 studs; z6 studs are too long. Or, to be ghetto, use the z6 studs + (40) extra ARP washers.

4. y8 block + z6 head = need z6 studs + (32) extra ARP washers. Or, what you really need, is (8) y8 studs + (2) z6 studs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

People always get confused when it comes to this. Everyone comes to me and asks what to buy, but you can figure it out based on these simple facts.


<U>Truth #1:</U>

All D-series head studs come in sets of equal length. Now I DON'T mean that the stud lengths are the same between different d-series motors; what I mean is that when you buy a stud set from ARP, every stud in the box will be the same length. There won't be any that are longer/shorter than the others.


<U>Truth #2:</U>

In a y8 block, all of the studs thread down until they are flush with each other except for the FRONT LEFT corner. That stud sits LOWER than the rest.

In a z6 block, all of the studs thread down intil they are flush with each other except for the BACK LEFT corner. That stud sits HIGHER than the rest.


<U>Truth #3:</U>

On a y8 head, the seat for the front left stud is machined lower than the seats for the other studs. This is to compensate for the fact that the corresponding stud sits lower in the block.

On a z6 head, the seat for the back left stud is machined higher than the seats for the other studs. This is to compensate for the fact that the corresponding stud sticks up higher in the block.


<U>Truth #4:</U>

Z6 studs are longer than y8 studs. This is because the z6 studs sit lower in the block and need to be longer to extend up through the head.




Modified by Enzo Speed at 1:00 AM 8/8/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Enzo Speed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2. z6 block + y8 head = need z6 studs + (8) extra ARP washers; y8 studs will not be long enough.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you can't visualize what that means, I'll break it down. You need all z6 studs because they are longer and need to rise up through the y8 head even though they thread deeply into the z6 block.

However, since the back left stud will be sticking up too high (Truth #2), you need to slide 4 ARP washers onto the stud to eat up the un-threaded portion and allow the nut to properly seat. Also, since the front left corner of the y8 head will be sitting too low (Truth #3), you need to add 4 ARP washers to this stud as well to eat up the unthreaded portion.


Modified by Enzo Speed at 1:00 AM 8/8/2006

 

Wow dude, thanks! Thats as much help as I can possibly ask for. Thanks again!!!

 

No sweat


I bought the wrong set before and was in the same shitty situation as you. I spent so much time looking over both motors I pretty much cracked the code. I hope people in the future will see this thread and not make the same mistake we did.

 

Also, the washers you need are $11.38 (per box of 10) directly through ARP.

 

I posted this info over on D-series.org, but I'm going to make a new thread once I'm done with both what I have learned and what you posted for anyone that follows, cause nobody seems to know anything concretly. I've been in the dark with the studs, the dizzy, t belt, HG, etc etc... I think I have it all figured out now though.

 

Instead of using washers on that corner, what you really need is a single Y8 head stud. So buy a set of z6 head studs, give one away, and buy a single Y8 stud. Use it on the back left.