vtec25

i emailed ARP and they gave me the specs for the bolts since they differ in size here are the specs:

D16Y8 Head Stud Kit 208-4305
10mm by 5.700” studs (qty10)

D16Z6 Head Stud Kit 208-4301
10mm by 6.450” studs (qty 10)


So which ones should i buy?? Someone here has to know and/or have a Y8 head on Z6 block.

Please help

vtec25

BUMP

drevinder

y8 head = y8 head bolts
z6 head = z6 head bolts

i think they might be same....bump for u

EK k kay

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drevinder &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">y8 head = y8 head bolts
z6 head = z6 head bolts

i think they might be same....bump for u </TD></TR></TABLE>

I swore your bro told me the opposite: use the bolts that correspond to the block you're using...

btw. me = chowmien if ya didn't notice the name change

dohdoh420

I am also wondering the same, but I'm gonna be using a z6 head on y8 block.. also what timeing belt, and or cam/cam gear do I use?

viskii420

bump... wondering the same... got y7 block.. with d16z6 head.. wat problem am i gona expect.. and what do i need to solve them

B18C5-EH2

Kind of off-topic since I have no clue what bolts to use, but why are you using a Y8 head instead of a Z6 head?

Y8 may raise CR, but it doesn't flow as well.

HiProfile

Z6 studs are a bit longer than Y8 studs.

I know for sure that with a Y8 BLOCK and a Z6 HEAD you need the Y8 studs plus a Z6 stud (got mine for a bit extra with a kit from lightningmotorsports). I'm assuming that the Z6 block has all threads (besides that one corner) sunk in a bit deeper than a Y8 block. If that's the case, I'd want to suggest Z6 studs (and possibly 1 short y8 stud).

<U>My advice would be to test out with old Z6 bolts (6.450" long) and if none bottom out, get the Z6 stud kit.</U>

viskii420

for high compression.. maybe.. z6 is for turbo app.. low compression

peiku

use 9 z6 studs and 1 y8 stud with that head/block combo. its the other way around fo rhte z6 head/y8 block combo (9 y8 studs and 1 z6 stud).

vtec25

"use 9 z6 studs and 1 y8 stud with that head/block combo. its the other way around fo rhte z6 head/y8 block combo (9 y8 studs and 1 z6 stud). "


Ok Do you know where to use that 1 y8 stud???

and i'm useing the y8 head but its ported and polished, 3 angle valve job, etc.

HiProfile

Its the bolt on the rear passenger or front driver corner - I can't recall offhand. When I get home I'll double check my z6 head and let you know. BTW, once my stud kit gets here, I'll have a spare y8 stud... PM if interested

peiku

its the very first hole on the top left, by the vtec solinoid. use the y8 stud on that spot. my cousin put a y7 head on his 92 dx block (all 88-95 civics use the same bolts and studs) so i know what i am talking about. you can try to use a y8 stud but it will be really short, like barely sticking out of the hole short. my cousin needed the car running so he just used the dx bolt with alot of washers. hey it worked but i wouldnt have done it though.

mike93eh

i have a y8 head on a z6 block and im using z6 studs. i just had to put an extra washer on two of the studs, no big deal.

peiku

no big deal but i would not recommend doing that on a boosted setup though.

mike93eh

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by peiku &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no big deal but i would not recommend doing that on a boosted setup though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

oh and why not?? my car is boosted, has been for awhile. no problems here. seriously what is one extra washer going to hurt. shut up.

peiku

well it will hurt when you blow your motor. i hope that washer is from arp and not one from the hardware store. different metals expand at different temps. and no need for the harsh words. we're all single cam guys here.

mike93eh

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by peiku &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well it will hurt when you blow your motor. i hope that washer is from arp and not one from the hardware store. different metals expand at different temps. and no need for the harsh words. we're all single cam guys here.</TD></TR></TABLE>

its not arp but just the same. i couldnt believe my hardware store had it. anyways i have been running just fine with the extra washer so right then and there you know it is a proven fact that it is alright and wont hurt anything.

HiProfile

ARP bolts are on a COMPLETELY different scale as any hardware bolt. First off, they aren't as brittle as grade 5 or grade 8 bolts are - yet they are much stronger. Think about it, they're bolt sets that cost ~$8-10 per stud/nut when in a kit, and that's below retail value. Hardware stores wouldn't charge $5 per bolt like that to stay competitive with other stores.

I don't think it will allow noticable head lifting, but there's a good chance that it will eventually warp the head.

mike93eh

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ARP bolts are on a COMPLETELY different scale as any hardware bolt. First off, they aren't as brittle as grade 5 or grade 8 bolts are - yet they are much stronger. Think about it, they're bolt sets that cost ~$8-10 per stud/nut when in a kit, and that's below retail value. Hardware stores wouldn't charge $5 per bolt like that to stay competitive with other stores.

I don't think it will allow noticable head lifting, but there's a good chance that it will eventually warp the head. </TD></TR></TABLE>

they have tons of expensive *** hardware and no i will not be warping my head.