Ok here goes. I had a 98 GSR with some internals, but mostly bolt-ons. I had the MSD 6AL box, MSD Blaster SS, MSD cap, and some cheap ACCEL wires that I got free from work.
I drove the car for about 10k with no problems, but then I noticed the coil wire was getting hard and upon closer inspection it crumbled in my hands. I had no idea what caused it to burn through, but I blamed it on the cheap wires.

Now on my friends car, a 92 HB with B18C1, he has every bolt on, along with JDM ITR pistons, ITR cams, and valve train. He is running the 6A box and Blaster 3 coil. He is having the same problem. His coil wire burned through, but he only put probably 3k on his engine before it happened. Also when he gets to over 7,000RPM his tach jumps around like its going crazy. This time he has MSD wires so I dont know what to blame it on.

I called MSD expecting them to be a great help, as they have been in the past, but they said they had never seen or heard of the problem before. They told me to check the resistance in my wires which I did and there OK. They also said they don't recommend using Platnium plugs, but thats what the GSRs use stock. We went ahead and replaced the 3K mile old coil, but the tach is still jumping around over 7K RPM. The coil wire hasn't burned through, but its only been about 500 miles since it happened.

Has anyone seen this problem before. Don't say something like "maybe you wired it up wrong", cause it is wired up correctly. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. I would like to figure this out before I do my swap and put my MSD on. If we can't figure it out by then I might have some MSD products for sale.

Thanks


-Ace

 

sounds like a manufacturing problem if you ask me

 

The car died on him last night when he stopped at a light. We've noticed that when he gets in the car after working all day, it usually doesn't mess up, but when he has driven it for a little while and it heats up thats when the problem starts.
We figure it can't really be the hondata since thats in the drivers compartment with him. So the only thing left is the MSD. He's going to put my stock distributor on, withought the MSD, and see if the problem totally goes away. Hopefully it will.
The box has less than 4K miles on it, and its already messin up?!?! Maybe there is a manufactoring defect with it, I just hope MSD will repair it. My box was fine, I sold it to my buddy in TN who put it on his Pontiac Drag car and its worked great for him.


-Ace

 

Use the Msd but run it to the stock coil!! Try this b4 you remove the entire ignition..

 

Liek above, get rid of that external coil. Honda has one of the best factory ignitions going. You can find factory ignition parts on 11 second all motor cars... If you are going to use an ignition box, you cant or should not use platinum plugs. If you want to keep the ignition, go with a stock coil,..I would use new factory wires too

 

My friend took the box and coil off, used my dist, and the car runs fine.
It would make sense to use the stock coil, then maybe the MSD coil wouldn't burn the wire right? The thing is, his tach is also jumping around when he gets over 7K. The coil wouldn't do that. Only the box. Were going to send the box back and ask them to check it out. When it returns, maybe we'll just use the box and stock coil.

-Ace

 

So when you checked the resistance and it was "ok"
What exactly was it.

MSD might have sold him solid core wire which technically is better if you're set up for it but usually worse. First off it's Illegal. because it puts out an extremely strong magnetic pulse which will damage electrical components like ecu's, radios, or equipment in the police car next to you
That would also explain why your tach is going crazy, because it's energizing the magnet inside of it. Also that MSD blaster pack is not made for solid core, and has a warning right on it that says not for use w/ solid core, thats probably why it's frying his wires, or yours....

I'd check your resistance again... If it isn't somewhat high.... take them out and get some new wires...

 

Ignition systems can burn out ignitors and casue misfires that could create a jumpy tach.

 

I don't remember what the resistance was. I called MSD and they told me to check it, and gave me the specs over the phone. The wires purchased were from Summit Racing. They are just regular MSD wires.
I see what your saying about the solid core, but I'm pretty sure they not. How could I check since I dont have the box?
Do you also think the stock platnium plugs could cause it? What kind would you recommend? Would stock LS plugs which are not platnium work?

-Ace

 

The best way to check to se if the wire is solid core is with a ohmmeter.
If it's solid core, you should get a "OFL" or "infinity" or something to the effect of
having no resistance at all or very little.

But if you don't think think the wires are solid core, here is something else to try.
Get a volt meter. Then, with the car on, put the posative on the posative battery lead, and scrape the negative all around the base of the coil pack.
You shouldn't get any voltage in theory, you probably get a little, if you're getting
a lot you have a problem.
If the insulation of the wire, coming off your secondary coil goes bad or if someone removes it, while the engines running, Coil packs can do a lot of damage, because they send 60Kv straight to ground. That could cause some of the problems your describing.

As for the plugs, Platnium isn't your problem, but that doesn't necessarily mean your plugs aren't. Find out the manufactured spec gap, and heat rating and stick with it. They made it that way for a reason. Other than that use whatever kind of spark you want, I use NGK platniums. I wouldn't use irradium, they are a waste of money, and their only real advantage is they will last 80,000 miles, and if you wait that long to change your plugs, you'll be changing your head too.


[Modified by Speed_Ricer99, 4:56 PM 7/19/2002]

 

Make sure that the coil is not mounted anywhere near the box. That coil puts out alot of electromagnetic interferance which will **** up the electronics in the ignition control module. Also make sure the coil is not mounted near any direct heat sources, ie. exhaust manifold, head, etc...