Any special tips when replacing stock rods and pistons with aftermarket forged ones? Is there a "unique" way the pistons and rods are to be installed compared to OEM parts? What bearings will I have to get for Crower rods (I hear that they are #3's)?

Will probably be using Crower rods and JE 9.8:1 pistons in 99 GS-R motor. Cylinder walls should be fine so they will be left as is. Crank is slightly bent and will be replaced.

TIA

 

Remember that the bearing tangs of the rod go on the exhaust side. This is easy to miss.

Carefully read the instructions on the ring install especially the installation of the oil ring. And use the gap spacing specified in the helms manual.

 

Thanks for the tips.

What do the "tangs" look like?

Is the oil ring one of the rings on the pistons or is that the one on the block?

TIA

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iiilgsrlll &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the tips.

What do the "tangs" look like?

Is the oil ring one of the rings on the pistons or is that the one on the block?

TIA </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I am talking about the oil rings for the piston.

Here is a pic of the grooves for the bearing tangs

 

Thanks for clarifying by providing the picture. I never knew that the tangs had to face a specific way. Learn something new everyday.

Anyone else have something to add?

TIA

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iiilgsrlll &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for clarifying by providing the picture. I never knew that the tangs had to face a specific way. Learn something new everyday.

Anyone else have something to add?

TIA</TD></TR></TABLE>

They are on the exhaust side because this is the minor thrust side. It has to do with the direction of rotation the Honda motor and the power stroke. The other side of the rod bears the load during the power stroke.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Remember that the bearing tangs of the rod go on the exhaust side. This is easy to miss.

Carefully read the instructions on the ring install especially the installation of the oil ring. And use the gap spacing specified in the helms manual.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Rocket,If he is going to use forged pistons,shouldnt he use the ring end gap specs that je recommends???

And also,you should at least try to do a light hone job to the sleeves,just to make sure the rings seal.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aeolus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If he is going to use forged pistons,shouldnt he use the ring manufactures end gap specs???</TD></TR></TABLE>

Correct. I should clarify myself and say gap orientation.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Correct. I should clarify myself and say gap orientation.</TD></TR></TABLE>

With that being said...If the cylinder walls are not bored out and stock bore is retained how tight of a seal can be obtained with aftermarket pistons/rings? The car will still be a daily driver so reliability is a must and would like to minimize blow-by. Thanks.

 

You can do like 0.012 on the top ring and 0.014 on the second with 81mm bore and you should be coo.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can do like 0.012 on the top ring and 0.014 on the second with 81mm bore and you should be coo.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Cool. Thanks.

 

And also make sure your piston to cylinder wall clearance is where it should be. Forged pistons expand alot and can seize up the engine if they expand to much and there is not enough clearance for them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aeolus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And also make sure your piston to cylinder wall clearance is where it should be. Forged pistons expand alot and can seize up the engine if they expand to much and there is not enough clearance for them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

How much clearance should exist between the wall and the piston itself? Sorry for all of the questions but just want to make sure everything is done correctly.

 

This is good info, I wanna know too

 

i don't know off hand for any b series motor.But i kno the http://www.jepistons.com site has that info.

 

With a 2618-T6 Forged piston with most skirt designs 0.003 is the recommend piston to wall clearance for 81mm bore.