Alrighty, so I dropped an SOHC VTEC head onto my 96 Civic DX motor. I'm getting rid of the V-AFC I've been using and swapping in an EX ECU from 1996. Here's what I need to add from the ECU to the motor:

1. VTS (VTEC solenoid valve)
2. IACV (there are two wires for EX, 3 wires for DX)
3. VTM (VTEC pressure switch)
4. 2WBS (Evap bypass solenoid valve)
5. VSV (Evap control canister vent shut valve)
6. KS (knock sensor) -- do I need this hooked up? Looks like it does nothing unless it "detects knock"...
7. PTANK (fuel tank pressure sensor) - what do I do with this?

So, #1 is no biggie, goes from ECU to single connector on VTEC solenoid.

#2, I swapped the wires around so that I have the wires coming from the ECU and going to the IACV. That leaves me with one extra wire...

#3 I believe must go to the VTEC solenoid 2 pin connector, but to which pin? And where does the other pin on the VTEC solenoid connector go? Chassis ground?

I have no idea what #4 or #5 are and apparently my car does not have anything like these? Any ideas?

Finally, where in the hell can I buy all these ECU plug pins and harness connectors for things like the IACV and VTEC solenoid?


[Modified by mplex2000, 3:05 PM 10/31/2001]

 

Some info:

#6 will need to be hooked up, you'll throw a code for that one.
#2 I'm assuming your still using the DX intake/iacv, in which case you might have to get an EX style iacv. I wouldnt know what else to suggest...

 

Also, just plug it up and see what happens. That way, you can see what codes get thrown and go from there.

 

I swapped a 98 GSR into my friends 96 hatch the only wires i messed with were the IAC, VTEC, VTEC press, KS, and since he had a Skunk 2 manifold no IAB sol. For the IAC i moved the pin from A13 to A12 and rewired the extra A14 into A8 for the VTEC sol. On the other end i swapped the connector rotary style 3 pin IAC connector for a linear 2 pin one. I put the negative IAC to the junction connector and i was done. For the VTEC pressure sensor you'll need to run a wire from pin C15 to the blue wire with a black stripe and ground the solid black wire to the thermostat housing or any other good grounding point. You got ur VTEC wire from A8 so just connect that to the VTEC sol. I had to add the single wire for the KS from pin D6 but you shouldn't have to do so if you're doin a single cam EX motor. The only other thing you may have to do if you haven't already is rework your wires so that you can plug in your secondary O2 sensor. And as for the EVAP stuff, i never mess with it. The only time you may have a prob as when you do emissions tests on ur car. Oh well, good luck!!
P.S. i get my OBD2 pins from the junkyard, it's a lot easier if you find an integra or prelude because there interior wiring harness is separate from the engine harness. Where i get my pins they only want to sell them if the harness is already messed up, otherwise they rather sell you the whole thing for like $150. When i find them i just cut them off about a foot above the plugs and they charge me $45 for the whole pig tale.

 

Well....if your car didn't have one of these, you will get a code all the time. It won't cause a decrease in performance, you will just have an annoying orange light in your face all the time. To fix it you could run a constant voltage to the ECU with a capacitor...or hook up the sensor, which will be a real PITA.

The fuel tank pressure sensor is in almost every honda model...except Hx's and some Dx's.

 

Here's where we are at. After the head swap, I was running the DX ECU and V-AFC. I got a check engine light which I assumed was from the IACV not being hooked up (when I installed the EX head I also went with an EX intake and BBK 62mm TB). I had to lean it out with the AFC, but it still ran VERY rich.

When I got the EX ECU last night, I plugged it in and drove it around the block. I was like magic at first...I still had a check engine light which I knew I would, but the lean condition was gone. Then I punched it, and I hit the rev limiter, but it was at a very low RPM (didn't notice what RPM exactly) but then I assumed it must be in limp mode.

Also, don't I need one of those little thinga-majiggies to read what code the ECU is giving? What's the best place to get one?

I'm getting the feeling I should just say screw it and go get the Haltech..


[Modified by mplex2000, 3:03 PM 10/31/2001]

 

Well, I got the VTEC pressure sensor hooked up, which took me out of limp mode. It does run MUCH better with the EX ECU, although the V-AFC is still being used to activate VTEC until I get some more ECU pins. I did connect the IACV, but the car goes CRAZY with it. It won't idle below 2000 RPMs, and sails all over the place when it starts.




[Modified by mplex2000, 5:36 AM 11/2/2001]

 

Any more ideas? Particularly on this IACV issue?