Alternator problem
Thread Starter
Big Cat
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 909
Likes: 0
From: Portland, OR
Alternator problem
New alternator, new battery, both tested out good. When I first got the car, I was told the alternator was bad. Well I put a new battery in, and drove it for 5 months with no problems. Then it stopped charging. Put a different used alternator in it, and it worked fine for another couple of months. Then it stopped charging again.
So, after putting new alternator in, and new battery, it still wouldn't charge. The alternator just wasn't putting out any power. So, after checking out the ECU, I noticed the vtec pressure switch and vtec solenoid were NOT plugged into the ECU. So, after hooking those up, I tested the alternator with the volt meter, and it WORKED!! The alternator was putting out 14v and the battery was getting 14v.
2 days later, went out to start the car, battery was dead. Jumped it, tested alternator with volt meter, 12.4 volts Any ideas? What would the vtec pressure and solenoid have to do with the alternator? Is there any other wiring I should check? The alternator IS recieving 12v from the ignition power source.
So, after putting new alternator in, and new battery, it still wouldn't charge. The alternator just wasn't putting out any power. So, after checking out the ECU, I noticed the vtec pressure switch and vtec solenoid were NOT plugged into the ECU. So, after hooking those up, I tested the alternator with the volt meter, and it WORKED!! The alternator was putting out 14v and the battery was getting 14v.
2 days later, went out to start the car, battery was dead. Jumped it, tested alternator with volt meter, 12.4 volts Any ideas? What would the vtec pressure and solenoid have to do with the alternator? Is there any other wiring I should check? The alternator IS recieving 12v from the ignition power source.
Thread Starter
Big Cat
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 909
Likes: 0
From: Portland, OR
Re: Alternator problem
I just went out and checked the ELD, according to write up below, and it checked out good. Started the car, checked the alternator with the multimeter, and it's working again. So there has to be a loose wire somewhere or something, that is causing the alternator to cut in and out.
The ECU does talk to the ELD. Basically the ELD tells the ECU that its now going into highoutput mode and to please idle the car a lil higher (ever notice how you turn your headlights on and then the idle picks up a tad? Thats why... to compensate for the extra load on the alternator).
Electrical troubleshooting says: ELD is a code 20 (but you're not seeing any codes). Tesing proceedures for a ELD:
1. disconnet the 3 pin ELD connector on the drivers front side of the fuse box (underhood).
2. with the ignition switch ON (car not running) there should be battery voltage between the black & yellow (+) and the black (-) wire terminals.
3. if there is no voltage check for:
- an open in the black & yellow wire between the dash fuse box and under-hood fuse box.
- poor ground
* if there is voltage goto step 4.
4. Check for voltage between the green & red wire terminal and the body of the car with the ignition switch still on.. There should be approxemetly 5 volts.
* if the voltage is as specified goto step 5.
5. check the voltage between the green & red terminal and body ground same as step 4 except with the headlights (low beam) on. there should be approximately 2 volts.
- if te voltage is not as specified replace the relay/fuse box. ELD is not available seperatly.
- if the voltage is as specified ELD unit is ok.
-------------
if that check out OK its either a shot wire, bad alternator or bad ECU.
Electrical troubleshooting says: ELD is a code 20 (but you're not seeing any codes). Tesing proceedures for a ELD:
1. disconnet the 3 pin ELD connector on the drivers front side of the fuse box (underhood).
2. with the ignition switch ON (car not running) there should be battery voltage between the black & yellow (+) and the black (-) wire terminals.
3. if there is no voltage check for:
- an open in the black & yellow wire between the dash fuse box and under-hood fuse box.
- poor ground
* if there is voltage goto step 4.
4. Check for voltage between the green & red wire terminal and the body of the car with the ignition switch still on.. There should be approxemetly 5 volts.
* if the voltage is as specified goto step 5.
5. check the voltage between the green & red terminal and body ground same as step 4 except with the headlights (low beam) on. there should be approximately 2 volts.
- if te voltage is not as specified replace the relay/fuse box. ELD is not available seperatly.
- if the voltage is as specified ELD unit is ok.
-------------
if that check out OK its either a shot wire, bad alternator or bad ECU.
Old Fart
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 26,173
Likes: 18
From: kelowna, bc, canada
Re: Alternator problem
Check exciter lead, [ign. lead] to alt., probably a black/yellow, make sure it has 12V on it as long as engine is running, [ign. in run or start position].
If this is an intermittent problem, [sounds like it] there may be a break in the lead or a bad connection, just in case it is the fuse, [defective] replace with a new or known working fuse, [engine bay fuse box].
What is the MM&Y of the car? 94
If this is an intermittent problem, [sounds like it] there may be a break in the lead or a bad connection, just in case it is the fuse, [defective] replace with a new or known working fuse, [engine bay fuse box].
What is the MM&Y of the car? 94
Thread Starter
Big Cat
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 909
Likes: 0
From: Portland, OR
Re: Alternator problem
Check exciter lead, [ign. lead] to alt., probably a black/yellow, make sure it has 12V on it as long as engine is running, [ign. in run or start position].
If this is an intermittent problem, [sounds like it] there may be a break in the lead or a bad connection, just in case it is the fuse, [defective] replace with a new or known working fuse, [engine bay fuse box].
What is the MM&Y of the car? 94
If this is an intermittent problem, [sounds like it] there may be a break in the lead or a bad connection, just in case it is the fuse, [defective] replace with a new or known working fuse, [engine bay fuse box].
What is the MM&Y of the car? 94
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,845
Likes: 37
From: Looking for SloMofo....
Re: Alternator problem
The 12v power from the ignition was one of the first things I checked. It is getting the 12v. All fuses are good. ELD is good. Battery ground is good. 1990 Accord. The alternator works sometimes, then other times it doesn't. I guess I should just start replacing wires one by one until I find the problem.
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,845
Likes: 37
From: Looking for SloMofo....
Re: Alternator problem
yeah buy my FD for $650 LOL. Seriuosly I would start looking into the wiring. do the "wiggle test" while checking the charging sytem. I had this problem with my old H22 cb7 but my prob turned out to be the AEM pulley i had on the alt was to big and wasnt allowing proper charging.
Thread Starter
Big Cat
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 909
Likes: 0
From: Portland, OR
Re: Alternator problem
$500. It has a H22 crank pully, H22 alternator, and a f22 AC pully. So the belt is a 5 ribbed, not a 6. But everything spins fine and looks good so I don't see how that would be a problem. Belt doesn't slip and everything spins how it should. I'm redoing the t-stat ground now. I'm running out of ideas.
Thread Starter
Big Cat
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 909
Likes: 0
From: Portland, OR
Re: Alternator problem
Went through a lot of the wiring, checked it all out, looked fine to me. Added a few more grounds, checked battery, 11.1 volts. Started car, 12.5 volts, no matter what the rpm's were at.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 432
Likes: 0
From: barrie, canada
Re: Alternator problem
its a simple system to trouble shoot, maybe the problem is the ecu it sends the signal to the alt to make it charge swap it for another one and if that fails download the manual from spoonertuner.com
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,975
Likes: 0
From: Lorton, VA
Re: Alternator problem
you have 4 wires and a battery cable going to the alternator. the battery cable goes from the alt to the + battery. the 4 signal wires, 2 go to ecu 2 goes to i forget, lol. i would check the battery cable. you're probably gonna have to unwrap the whole bundle that goes over the valve cover and ****. good luck!
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Re: Alternator problem
Hey man im having exact same problems.. replaced everything you have, but i have done the grounds and still same problem..
but i do have some aem pulleys which after reading what dcfiver said im fixing to throw out the window...
but i do have some aem pulleys which after reading what dcfiver said im fixing to throw out the window...
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