i finished rebuilding my B18C few nights ago. i replaced all the bearings, plastic gauged them (they are all in spec), checked my end clearences they are also within spec.

I also replaced my pistons with P30. I checked piston to wall clearence. the ring end gaps are all within spec. so all in all i think my bottom end is pretty solid, i torqued down the head.

I finished the engine completely 2 nights ago. and i am about to drop it in my EG, but i have a fear of starting it up, is there anything that i my not have done that can cuz the engine to malfunction on start up ?
Every thing i did and did over, what could i have done wrong?

Any advice before i start it up?

 

this may sound funny but I've seen it happen:
- don't forget oil-
double check timing belt marks and tension
watch for fuel leaks.
good luck and enjoy!!!

 

i think i just found a problem. the pistons ( P30 ) i got were genuine honda. and they came with wrist pins but the wrist pins fit loosly in the piston. i took them to the machine shop to get them fit onto the GSR rods. and they did a good job. the pin now fit snug onto the rods but they had still float in the pistons. Is that a problem? i think it is. i was reading here on honda-tech and they say that some floating pin come with snap ring to fit in the pistons. mine didnt.
is it correct to fit snug in the rod and loose in the piston?
with the pin "walk" and slap the cylinder wall?

 

oem rods use press fit pins, the piston pins will slide in the pistons with little drag. you are good to go

 

ok, that is what they are doin. but then i got the pistons and i put in the pin and turned them on a side they would slide right out.
well cool, once i didnt need to install any snap rings or "stoppers" to keep the pins in.
Well i will try to start her up tonight or tomorrow. see how it goes.

 

Make sure you have oil in the engine...Disconnect the fuel pump and ignition system and crank the engine until your oil light turns off before you actually fire it up for the first time. After the oil pressure light turns off, you can reconnect the ignition system and fuel pump and fire her up. Don't let it "sit" at a set RPM during the first several minutes. Also, don't put load on the engine by using the engine to slow the car down in gear.

 

should the engine be fairly to turn by hand using 19mm socket on crank pulley? or should the engine be stiff?
My friend was telling me that mine is a bit loose but it may be that way since they are new rings and i may have lubed up the cylinders a bit too much.

 

Eh...if your spark plugs aren't in, it'll be fairly easy to turn...
If they are in, then there will be a little more resistance.

 

yeh they are in, but it is still a bit easy .....head is torqued to spec and all.

It was pretty tight at first but then i added a bit more oil to the cylinder walls and they freed up quite a bit. normal?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -=Zeqs=- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't let it "sit" at a set RPM during the first several minutes. Also, don't put load on the engine by using the engine to slow the car down in gear.</TD></TR></TABLE>

pull the plugs and ecu fuse and crank the motor for 10 seconds 3 times for oil pressure.

reinstall plugs and ecu fuse and start it.

check timing, fuel pressure, oil leaks and coolant leaks

warm up for 5 to 10 minutes.

change oil and filter.

break in the engine by doing hard acceleration and deceleration (USING THE ENGINE TO SLOW DOWN).

 

EXACTLY. accelerate steadily and then let off throttle till i t slows down using engine. You will get a much better ring seat this way than "babying" it.

 

ok i did all and tried firing it up, but the car wouldnt start. The engine just turns over, oil light goes out every thing sounds good but it just wouldnt start.

I checked the distributor and it doesnt seem to get spark. i changed the coil and nothing. the check engine light is on but very very dim and all the other lights in the dash are on bright. anyone have any idea what would cause this motor not to start?

 

I dont know what it is man.
I hope everything works out. All could say is to check. Spark Fuel and Compression

 

did it start yet?

 

it starts once and a while. i have to advance the distributor to get it started. but when i set it back to around 16 degrees and turn it off it wouldnt start back.

when i let it cool for a while and go back to start it i hear like a fast tapping. my friend told me that i would hear that if the fuel line has in air. but once i swing a few times it goes away. but i dont understand how the fuel pump can go bad when i drove the car daily b4 the sway, drove it in the garage, swapped motors and tried to start. it sound like it is coming from down by the main relay or around the driver side of the engine bay (my car is RHD and the motor is a JDM B18C with JDM B18C harness)

If my O2 sensor is not connected would it cause this ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by averyvm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did it start yet?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yo dude. got it started it seems as if it was a fuel pressure problem. i swapped the regulator out and got a new one and when i checked the vacuum line on top of the regulator it was cut .... i replace and started and it idled fine.

thr regulator was bleeding off the pressure too quickly. if i started and had it runnin then switched off, in less than 5 mins the pressure was back to 0 psi.

do you have any idea which wires from the O2 sensor goes to which on the other end of the connector.