**********UPDATE***UPDATE***UPDATE**********IM ALMOST THERE!

Ok!!! After hours of diag, I check pin A23(-) on the Ecu to make sure there was continuity to ground since its a ground, and there was! Then I turned the key to the on position(||), and checked for voltage from terminal A23(-) on the Ecu to pin A25(+), And then Voltage from the same Pin A23(-) to B1(+). There is supposed to be battery voltage, I ONLY HAD 2 VOLTS!!!!! Basically, the 2 wires (pin A25 and B1 both are yellow with a black line) go to the main relay and come together at terminal 3 of the main relay. HERE'S THE PROBLEM. I run new wire from the main relay to Ecu, and still no start and solid CEL. BUT, I run wires from battery straight to Ecu on those 2 terminals, and THE FUEL PUMP PRIMES AND CAR STARTS RIGHT UP!!! I replaced main relay and still no luck. Maybe I have a bad connection right at the main relay connector. Because somehow, when I turn the key to position 2, it's supposed to aply power to the main relay from ignition switch, then from there to Ecu...I hooked up a Switch so u could drive my car I need it for work, but I will figure out what's going on and I'll update more soon!!!!!!!

***********************BELOW IS THE ORIGINAL POST***********************


I have a 92 civic with a 2000 type r swap. I have the famous solid CEL, and fuel pump is not priming. I have looked on forum after forum, and I can't figure this out. Car will crank but fuel pump won't turn on or even prime. I don't think I am getting any voltage at injectors either, but may need to check again because i checked it in a hurry and may not have gotten a good connection. I've done all the following and have not been able to fix it...

I replaced the main relay-nothing
**update**i replaced distributor-didn't fix it
I checked the main relay ground-ground was good
I checked continuity between the main relay harness and the Ecu- was ok
Jumpered main relay harness and was able to make fuel pump cut on.
Checked the ACG ALT S fuse under dash-fuse ok.
Checked power at the ACG ALT S fuse, battery voltage
Checked the Ecu fuse under dash-replaced blown fuse-battery voltage there now
Cleaned the grounds on the thermostat housing.
I did the k test, found 0v on all 3 wires instead of 5v.
Usually that means bad Ecu, so I changed it, trIed 3 different Ecu, nothing.

All out of ideas. Only things I haven't tried are replacing the ignition switch, replacing the engine wiring harness, replacing the Ecu harness, and replacing the whole da** car. Is there anyone that's really good with wiring??? I look up p28 Ecu pinouts, but wires don't really match all the way. And I don't have acces to alldata or something where I can print out wiring diagrams.

 

friends car had similar issues, try another distributor, I'm not recalling exactly what was wrong with it but a new dizzy turned off the cel. also make sure that your fuel pump is still working. a couple ways to do this is to just jump it off the battery with some wire, or use a test light. Fuel pumps can go bad and since it sounds like you have already checked the main relay, i dont see why else it wouldnt prime if it was wired correctly.

 

Thank your for the reply!

I actually used a wire to jumper the main relay harness and the fuel pump turns on. But even with it turned on, the car won't start so I don't have spark and I don't think I have voltage to the injectors. I have heard that the ICU ignition control unit can go bad and cause this. Thanks For your input, i. Believe my friend just bought a new dizzy for his b20 build, so I'll borrow his .

In the mean time, any other ideas?? Anyone??

 

well if you dont have spark as well then i would suggest trying to clean your cap and rotor first to see if that helps improve spark. just use a piece of sandpaper and clean the contacts inside the dizzy cap. if that doesnt work then try the new dizzy.

 

Well it may need to be cleaned, but it's hard to believe that, when the car was running just fine and I shut if off and try to restart it 3 minutes later And this happens...then again it's all sensors n stuff so it's possible.

Another thing I didn't mention. I had the car running and I disconnected the iac and the map sensor. I shut the car off, and removed the Ecu fuse to clear codes and reconnected iac back, but forgot to connec the map back. So when I started car, the map sensor was disconnected and cel came on. I turned car back off, and connected map, and then when I tried to restart, I had the solid cel and that's all she wrote. Could voltage maybe have back fed into dizzy somehow and fried the ICU(Ignition Control Unit inside the distributor)??

 

no i dont see that happening, disconnect your battery for 15 minutes and see if the cel goes away, have you tried coding it? and it just stays solid when you try to code it right?

 

yes need to reset codes

then with the cel, so when youre checking the codes, u were getting a solid cel ?

 

I tried that and it didn't help. That would clear a code but the code is in the computer, so changing it out should have fixed it but not one of the 3 computers I tried worked.

 

Yes, there are 2 plugs under the dash by the Ecu. I jumpered one at a time with key on engine off and the light didn't flash at all.

 

Thanks guys for the replies!!! I appreciate the input. Any other ideas?

 

weird. is your car obd1? are you trying other ecu's that are the same as what you are converted to right now? also are you running the right distributor (obd1 dizzy with obd1 wiring) or are you running it obd1 with a obd2 dizzy thats been rewired? if thats the case i would check all of your wiring and connections to make sure they are okay.

 

The car is obd1. I got the engine and just dropped it in. That was a few years ago. It came with the harness just plugged right in should be stock harness. Then I got a p28 Ecu on chrome and that's it. I never had a harness built so Im sure it's the stock one.

 

Bump!!!please help keep this post at the top!! I was just told that a distributor could possibly cause this. Does that make any sense?

 

Can anyone help me find a within diagram for a distributor on a 2000 inegra type r so that I can make sure the wire that goes from the ignition control unit to Ecu has continuity and not open. THANKS!

 

use the search function, your car is wired for obd2-b from the factory. so search for that homie.

 

Bump!!!!!hope u figure it out

 

checking the codes, solid cel=bad ecu. swap ecu then turn the key, still solid ecu?

 

Ill check my schematics when I get home but the igp1 and 2 usually run threw a junction connector and voltage gets distributed to your injectors iacv and the ecu from the main relay.. have you checked voltage going into your main relay and out? There's a diode inside that prevents the negative side coil from shorting to the positive side that may be the problem.. check continuity from igp1 to the injectors and iacv than to the main relay blk yellow wire.. when I get home I can post more help.. since you supplied direct battery volts and it turned on its either a bad connection or component.

 

Thanks!! Will do!

 

This is using true, except for when you have a wiring problem. Unfortunately, I have a wiring problem. I replace the Ecu and tried 3 different ones and still nothing

 

Have you checked your grounds?

G101, at the thermostat housing.
G401, driverside kick panel.
G502, under driverseat on seat rail.

Have you tried replacing the engine bay fuse box? Could be a wacky ELD, Fuse 15 in the under-dash fuse box as well which is fuse for the ELD/VSS/ALT.

 

Hey thanks for posting! Can you be more specific??? What worries me is that you mention the iac... I did disconnect that right before this problem started because I was adjusting the idle. But I reconnected it so idk. As far as that black Yellow wire, that goes from the main relay to the EcuNSAID supposed to apply battery voltage when key is on and instead of having battery voltage I get 2 volts. I re ran a new wire but it's still not working. I'm thinking it's the ignition switch harness... When I turn it to ignition position 1 it suplies voltage to one relay inside the main relay, when it goes to position 2 or the on position, it's supposed to energize the second relay inside the main relay, and that gives power to the ECM and primes the fuel pump n so on. If I apply power to the ECM with the key on, and try to start car, it won't start... But if I turn the key to the on position, THEN apply power to ecu, the feul pump will prime for 2 seconds, and the engine light will shut off and i can start my car and drive it.... What could cause this??

 

I checked g101 and it was good I cleaned it anyway., but not g104, and I've taken my seats out and never saw g502 on seat rail...And haven't tried to swap the fuse box, but if I look in my fuse box, while standing in front of my carthose fuse in the very back row towards the firewall and all the way in the right corner is melted. It's Supposed to be the rear defrost relay??

Interesting that you mention the ELD as well. I just installed 2 Rockford Fosgate t2 in my car pushing 2400 watts rms... This may be an issue lol.

 

I apologize, I was referencing off a DC2 chassis, misread your original post..thought it was in an ITR.

Either way, can you post a picture of the melted fuse? If I'm understanding your correctly, that would be your Radiator Fan. If it is MELTED, as opposed to blown, remove it and see where you get. It's not really great to have a melted fusible link still in place, lol.

 

Your misunderstanding how the PGM-FI Main Relay works and what it does.

The PGM-FI Main Relay, as you say, has two(2) relays in it, one is the fuel injector relay the other is the fuel pump relay, when you turn your ign. switch to the run position, this will happen, [or should happen] the ign switch will supply the PGM-FI Main Relay power, [12.5V or whatever batt. voltage is] that power goes to the fuel injector relays coil, [other side of coil is grounded] it also supplies power to the input, #30 of the fuel pump relay, this lead is almost always a yellow/black.

When that power is supplied to the PGM-FI main Relay there will be two(2) "clicks" from the PGM-FI Main Relay, first click is the fuel injector relay turning on and the second click is the fuel pump relay turning on, these "clicks" are very close together so they can sound/feel like one click.

At the same time, [when you turn on the ign. switch] the cluster will light up, including the CEL, the fuel pump will start priming.

After no more then a few sec. there will be a third click from the PGM-FI Main Relay, fuel pump relay turning off, at the same time the CEL will go out.

If any of the above is not happening the engine will not start, and the problem is related to the PGM-FI Main Relay, it may not be the relay itself, but related to it.

The fuel injector relay, [when on] supplies power to the fuel injectors, [obviously] internally to the fuel pump relays coil, to a few engine valve/solenoids and heated O2 sensor if you have one, last but not least and very important to IGP1 and IGP2 at ECU/ECM, both IGP1 and 2 must have batt. voltage on them or not much of anything will happen, ECU/ECM will not supply the ground for the fuel pump relays coil, ECU/ECM will not pulse the injectors, just to name two things.

The first things you should test for is...

1- Injector relays coil ground, [black] is a good groung, [full continuity to chassis ground]

2- the PGM-FI Main Relay has all three(3) of it's powers, unplug the relay and test for batt. voltage

There must be a 12V constant lead, [hot at all times] normally yellow/white, whatever the color there is only one 12V constant and it must be batt. voltage, it is the input, #30 to the injector relay.

There must be a 12V switched lead, [hot in run AND start] normally yellow/black, again fuel injector relays coil and input, [#30] to the fuel pump relay.

There must be a second 12V switched lead, [hot only when cranking to start] normally blue/white

The colors of the lead may differ from model to model/year to year but not what they are and when they are hot.

You need to confirm 12V+, [batt. voltage] at IGP1 and IGP2 when ign. switch is in run AND start.

If any of the above is not right engine will not start.

Check what I have suggested and let me know what you find. 94