98 Civic Hatch DX...Help!
Alright guys, here's what I got going on....I've got a 98 Civic Hatch DX. Last week I pulled into a parking spot and it died on me, turned back over and ran for a second before dying again. After screwing with the plug wires, I got it back to my house. One of the plugs was jammed up in the boot, and it didn't want to fit so well in the cap. I replaced the cap and same thing happened yet again. I replaced the plug wires and drove it to work this morning and it made a 15 minute commute. I was letting it run after I got off work, and it ran for a solid 10 before dying again. But this time it starts up without screwing with anything. Just turn the key and it turns over, sounds strong. Drove all the way back to my house. So I guess my question is, does anyone have an idea of what this is? Maybe where to start? Thanks for your input in advance.
No cel isn't on. I just bought it about two weeks ago. Seems to idle up and down, not like when the o2 sensor is out. It's idles up and then slowly goes down and then kicks back up again. Right before it died yesterday, it felt like it backfired.
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I'd check or perform the following; ignition timing, basic tune up, check spark plugs then refer to the spark chart in the sticky to see what conditions you're they're running in. Make sure all connections are secure in the engine bay.
My 93 Integra died twice on the freeway, complete electrical failure. Engine cut off, no power, no lights, no electricity throughout the car. I found that if I shook the battery the car starts up just fine. I ruled it out as being a defective battery as all of the connections to it are not coroded, secure and tight. So check EVERYTHING in the bay.
My 93 Integra died twice on the freeway, complete electrical failure. Engine cut off, no power, no lights, no electricity throughout the car. I found that if I shook the battery the car starts up just fine. I ruled it out as being a defective battery as all of the connections to it are not coroded, secure and tight. So check EVERYTHING in the bay.
Could also be your fuel pump going bad I suppose. I'm sure you can source a fairly inexpensive FP gauge to monitor, compare against values in the service manual.
I realize I can't expect to buy a used car and not have to do a tune, I just figured I'd be able to make it to my days off which is this week without having to worry about being stranded. Not being a smartass, I am somewhat mechanically inclined and enjoy working on my cars.
I took the bolt off the fuel rail and flipped on the ign, has plenty of pressure. Ill look into a gauge and see what I'm getting into.
I'm going to replace the fuel filter and plugs today, maybe that will take care of the problem, if not I guess ill look into the timing aspect or possibly getting a refurb dizzy, or start pricing the Icm and coil.
Before I replace anything, I'm gonna let it run in my driveway until it dies, I guess see if it still has power anywhere else, lights, radio? I hadn't noticed whether or not before. If it's complete electrical, it may be deeper than ignition correct? The alternator looks fairly new, probably within the last 6-12 months, would it be worth having it tested as well, or would that just be wasting time?
Thanks again for all the help, really appreciate it.
I took the bolt off the fuel rail and flipped on the ign, has plenty of pressure. Ill look into a gauge and see what I'm getting into.
I'm going to replace the fuel filter and plugs today, maybe that will take care of the problem, if not I guess ill look into the timing aspect or possibly getting a refurb dizzy, or start pricing the Icm and coil.
Before I replace anything, I'm gonna let it run in my driveway until it dies, I guess see if it still has power anywhere else, lights, radio? I hadn't noticed whether or not before. If it's complete electrical, it may be deeper than ignition correct? The alternator looks fairly new, probably within the last 6-12 months, would it be worth having it tested as well, or would that just be wasting time?
Thanks again for all the help, really appreciate it.
If it's complete electrical as was my failure, you wouldn't have power to anything; radio, windows, lights, etc. At that point, you should start looking at any loose ground connections and make sure battery cables are all clean and tight. My issue turned out to be a dead battery cell.
You can roughly test the alternator by using a DMM connected to your battery while the engine is running, it should read 14+ volts.
You can roughly test the alternator by using a DMM connected to your battery while the engine is running, it should read 14+ volts.
You've had it for two weeks according to your first post. Doesn't take that long to do a tuneup.
Some of us don't work 9-5, Monday-Friday. I know what my first post said.
I let the car run for 15 minutes, didn't die once, I'm gonna test the battery and alternator and go from there.
I let the car run for 15 minutes, didn't die once, I'm gonna test the battery and alternator and go from there.
Nope. Some of us work, go to school full time, manage a household and still manage to take care of our vehicles.
Basic maintenance. Do it. There's no excuses.
Basic maintenance. Do it. There's no excuses.
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peteyb
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