I was not paying attention as closely as I should and shifted 3rd to 4th at 9000-9100 RPM's the other day. Did not hit a rev-limiter. What are the adverse affects of me doing that on accident, and what is the rev-limiter set at on the Type-R? My previous LS would hit the rev-limit the absolute second it dipped into the red on the tach.

thanks

 

You are fine, the tach doesnt keep up real well at high RPMS, in my friends Rs, usually they shift at 9k indicated.

 

RPM kill motor there no reason to shift at 9grand you will make power only to 8200 RPM

 

see thats the whole thing. honda tachs are not accurate much past 7100. so his tach showing 9,000 would really be 8400-8700 (est).

 

Indicated 9000K to 9100K on the ITR tach is really a true 8500K to 8600K. The tach is innacurate as much as 400 RPM on the indicated Tachometer.

How do I know for sure you may ask?

Well the revlimiter kicks in at 8600K and when I Dynoed a few months back, the guys doing the monitering on the computer kept telling me to push it more as I was almost letting off at the indicated redline of 8500K...

I saw that as the needle hit 9100K then the revlimiter just went Bang... I let off and got a great run that topped at a 8600 true RPM.

Don't go trying to find the revlimiter too often but, it's good to know that it's there.

Now if you misshift and over rev you can actually override the mechanical Revlimiter and do some major damage to your car and motor.

So the indicated redline on your Tach is 9000K but, in reality is 8500K and the revlimiter will kick in at the indicated 9100 or the true 8600RPM.

Good luck,

A.


[Modified by 1GreyTeg, 9:44 PM 4/4/2002]

 

I bounce my car off the rev limiter often...I've heard the stock ITR valvetrain is good to 9200 rpm....your fine

 

how can that be a good idea to "bounce" your car off of rev limiter. I know the valve train is good to 9200 or whatever but that doesn't mean it is good to 9200 a thousand times. It just seems like pushing your luck to me.

 

Thanks for all the info guys - good to know!!

 

Some JUN 3's in there with the proper tuning will easily make power up at 9000rpm, but if you do that you probably want to upgrade the whole valvetrain.

 

If ITR's don't make power past 8200 RPM, then why did my B16a with ITR cams and intake manifold keep making power up past 8400 til it reached valve float?

 

The stock ITR/CTR cams do make power up there but, under stock conditions they do NOT continue to gain power up there. They develop a plateau unless they are tuned for gains further up top.

When I look at my plot I see a steady climb from bottom to top with the traditional Vtec X-over at 5,700RPM. They start to plateau between 8K and 8200 RPM. Not that they don't make power, they just stop producing that climb and then as you stated, you begin to experience valve float.

A.

 

don't hurt anything...It's a ******' car, not an egg or baby or any **** like that..It's tough.

 

Just because it is tough doesn't mean that it can take repeated abuse like that. Its amazing that honda makes it possible to ever revv that high at all. Would you rally your car every day? No? Why's that? Just because it is a car doesn't mean its unbreakable. I think its a respect thing as well. Abusing a stock engine like that just seems like you have no respect for your car, and with a fine car like a type R I think thats a sin or something.

 

The Realtime ITRs rev to 9k on stock valvesprings....for a 50 minute race.

 

I rev'd well over 10000 rpms during a mis-shift in my ITR w/stock valvetrain and after a slight scare turned out fine.

I am not saying you can do it every day i guess i got lucky.

By the way my V-AFC peak rpm recall read 9999....so who knows how far after that.

 

hitting the revlimiter dont hurt anything.

thats like saying hitting anti-lock is bad for you brakes

And if it was bad to hit those higher rpms, then honda wouldn't let you get that high to begin with.

 

yeah there is a b16 with CTR cams makes power REALLY high


http://www.dh-racing.com <!~ guy who did the headwork... i found his site interesting
this is a stock pr3 block b16a ...pretty damn impressive if you ask me

 

wow

 

It is bad to hit the rev limiter and it is bad to hit anti lock because it means that you are pushing the mechanical limits of the device and that is never good for it. Sure its not the worst thing you can do but it is certainly not the best either. Tell me, which engine will last longer and have less things wear out on it, the one that is pushed to red line all the time or the one that is driven with more care and not taken to red line every day? You can not tell me that it isn't bad to hit the rev limiter. Maybe you don't see the effects this year but 30000 miles down the line you will see the effects of abusing your engine and that is all that I am saying.

 

OK, i have 90k miles on my GSR and i take it to redline EVERY day. Not every other day, every day, and several times a day at that. The compression is good, it doesnt burn any oil, and makes good power. So how can you say that you will see the adverse effects of reving high in 30k miles? During a 30 minute track session, i am at 8k+ and in and out of the ABS all the time. My car seems to be fine. Its not a crystal glass, its a CAR. It is made to rev to 8k RPMs all day long. Theres nothing wrong with revving your car that high, as long as its designed for it. It all boils down to maintenance. All im trying to say is, its a car, stop babying it and drive it like it was meant to be driven.

 

I guess I stand corrected, it just seems so abusive to me.