Originally Posted by grumblemarc

Not really. You never seem to post in any thread that has the need for any real tech information and I've never seen you demonstrate any of your so called expertise. Any thread with any real difficulty to it and you're nowhere to be found. Ever. When you do post all I've ever seen you do is post up other people research in attempt to make yourself look more intelligent and knowledgeable than you are in order to make others look stupid-failing at it miserably. You choose instead to attack instead of educate. You have miserable customer service skills as demonstrated by your self-important overblown ego that has you comparing yourself to the likes of doctors and lawyers. Your customers must be extremely put off having to deal with you for any length of time. Lord help anyone that actually listens to anything you say on this forum.

Just like this thread. It was all semantics and word play but the end result was the same. Vibration because of rotors-replace them. Especially since they aren't that expensive. Warped rotors are not a myth, they are a misnomer.

Originally Posted by DCFIVER

Let me guess, you think all oil,coolant, and trans fluids are thae same as well dont you? You still do parasitic draw testing with a test light right? Ignorance like yours is what spread the" rotors warp" falsehood. These guys frequenting this forum can be forgiven for not knowing the reality, because most, if not all of them ,are DIY'er. But you claim to be a professional, yet continue to stick to antiquated beliefs despite the training and information that is available to us, and not available to them. You are the type of "mechanic" that make our industry look bad...

Originally Posted by grumblemarc

Substantial like this? Yeah right. FCM can give me advice all day. You? Not so much.

Originally Posted by DCFIVER

Rotors do not warp and even if the TV of the rotor were out of spec,it would not make the vehicle vibrate if the brakes are not applied. That model year CRV has issues with the axles. 1 or both of the axle inner CV joints is possibly bad. There does not need to be any tears or rips in the boots for them to be bad.

Originally Posted by Hondaguy83

DcFiver I met people like you and worked with people like you. People like u r punks that think they know everything. I can tell the way you talk with out meeting you. Your friends don't like you and your the type that would laugh at your co workers when they **** up.
I work with a guy like you that though he knew more than me and would always get smart with me. He walks around with his chest out with a million dollar look on his face
Like he's a master mechanic. I figured out when he didn't know **** when I told him to ground the test light and he hooked up the clip to his tool cart.
Btw I got one of them badges too. " Advanced level specialist "

Originally Posted by DCFIVER

Wrong.

Wrong.



I find it amusing that no one would argue with a doctor about medical advice, no one would argue with a lawyer about legal advice, yet because any back yard bob weekend hack can buy a craftsman tool set he thinks he's a mechanic. So they feel they can argue with a professional mechanic, like myself. Shame. You really look like idiots from my perspective...

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths

A good article from: The Tire Rack.com:
What causes brake rotors to overheat and warp?

Overheating brake pads beyond their designed temperature range releases large amounts of gas and uneven, sticky deposits of melted binders/fillers that coat the rotor surface. Every time the brake system heats up, those uneven deposits will grip the pad more aggressively than the areas without the deposits. The brake pad will slip over the non-coated areas because it can’t grip as well on those bare areas. These heavy concentrations of compound material are called hot spots because they cause uneven overheating on the rotor surface. This can actually alter the molecular structure of the cast iron rotors forming hard spots. Severe overheating forms a compound within the cast iron structure called cementite which is harder and more abrasive than the surrounding iron. It’s also not as effective as a heat sink as the surrounding cast iron. The compound cannot wear down these hard spots and the result is more heat building up in those areas and a thumping you can feel whenever you apply the brakes. Continued use of the rotors will expand these areas of cementite and uneven heat distribution. Once cementite forms in the rotor, it cannot be removed. The rotor needs to be replaced.


OEM and aftermarket brake manufactures chased down and eliminated the warped rotor myth years before StopTechs article. For more information regarding the falsehood of "warped" rotors you can purchase white papers here on the subject:


http://www.sae.org/search?searchfield=brake%20rotors

These papers are the result of real world testing and design.


Rotors dont warp kids.

Originally Posted by EKhatch

My mom's 97 CRV has a slight to mild vibration above 60mph. It gets worse until about 75 when it subsides a little but doesn't ever go away. I told her to get the tires checked and maybe have them balanced. She ended up needing new tires anyway but the problem still persists. The best way I cab describe it is like driving over washboards on a dirt road. The steering wheel and dash shake. The car has 104K miles and to my knowledge has never had the wheel bearings or struts replaced but I have no idea if that would have anything to do with it.

Does anyone know of anything that would cause this that I can check into before she takes it in to the dealer? It's an auto with AWD and ABS (I think) if that has matters at all.

Thanks