Before I chuck what I have, and go coil-on-plug for mucho dinero, if you know, please share your proven knowledge.
I'll begin with a simple question about ignitors.
Can a part like JDM Ignition Pros cover all the B series, whether vtec or not?
https://jdmignition.com/collections/...e-distributors
There are old threads where people say vtec had a different ignitor.
And retailers ask alot more for "vtec" parts
I'm getting a code 15 and have my TD-87U dizzy out about to replace stuff.
Coil is good.
I like to get OEM stuff from the yards if possible, and may need one of the other sensors in the dizzy.
I have a built, boosted LSvtec with B16 head and GSR cams.

 

As you prolly already know the part numbers on an igntion module for a vtec and non vtec distributors are different. A quick search appear like theres a mounting difference. If you really wanted to keep the distributor setup, id suggest taking your oem ignitor into say autozone and ask for the like part from a 95 integra ls. That way you would be able to confirm if itll work or not

Also, just to clarify, youre in need of an ignitor for a vtec dizzy? I may have an aftermarket one with low miles from way back before i switched to hondata COP. Ill double check later, but if interested id be willing to let it go. Doubt ill ever need it again. Was kept for other vehicles that i mite have to work on. But these cars arent popular enough to keep all those old parts like i have.

Edit...
No more ignitors.

 

Yes the numbers are different, but folks usually just remove the heatsink and remount (should use paste) and they work.
That's why I guess a company can just make one now and offer for all dizzys.

I guess I mainly wonder if we've been shafted paying for "VTEC" modules all those years?

I would like to use the OEM dizzy for a little longer, its a street car and needs money for cosmetics.
Man COP would be nice tho.

 

Yea i suppose that would work. Never noticed even wouldnt noticed they were different in the past. As ive always just got the correct one.

Having the COP feature was nice. Quick and simple upgrade. Not having to worry about the stupid rotor screw backing out again and shooting through the cap. That was my final straw. Couldve cost me my brand new built motor at the time. Besides the added insurance, the cost of not having to buy coil or ignition modules anymore was nice. Hondatas kit was 395, can only imagine it went up due to tariffs and inflation.

Went out and double checked for the ignitors. Dont have anymore or coils. Mustve gave them away when i sold the CPR COP kit. I only have some duralast rotor, wires, some unknown pickups, and my gutted distributor

 

I grabbed two Hitachi's at junkyard the other day, one is in car, I have those, and two unidentified aftermarket ones...It's hard to believe they all are bad, although I haven't tested them all... Two I think.
Still getting Code 15. I did the test in the Helms and I'm only getting 3.6 volts at A21 and A22. Says replace ignitor . Maybe I will.

 

Wiring look good inside the dizzy? Have you backprobed the voltage at the distributor plug while running? Could be 12volts there but some broken strands in the harness somewhere from the dizzy plug on its way to the ecu

 

Yeah the wiring isn't the best, but I ohm'ed from blk/yellow back to A21 and its good. Replaced icm and coil, no spark. Wish someone here had a p28 in good shape.I have no power (well 1 volt) at A21 and its said you are to have 10 volts there.
About to send ecu to AITuning on ebay for repair. I've replaced most of the caps and have q39 out now cuz Grok led me on a goosechase.
Ordered "new old stock" transistor to replace that one and waited a week ...saw on PGMFI that it was in that circuit. I don't think it was ever bad. all the tests from Helms are good so far, power to the correct pins on ecu plug, so I don't think it's main relay or ign. switch.
I'm getting code 15 and crank no start. Bummer.
Car went from starting up the new re-build, about to install a topmount, to this.
It would do a thing where it felt like key switched off for about 1.5 seconds, then recover. I reflowed the main relay, and drove about a mile and this started. tried another main relay from toolbox, nothing.
But if it was main, would I have good numbers at ecu plug?
Pump primes, no other cel.
Ohmed ground pins at ecu. ok

Also ohmed the sensors in dizzy per Helms, checked ok...is that enuff to say they're good?

One thing i remember is I drove it for maybe an hour total street tuning with the spring not in the coil tower.
Have replaced icm and coil as stated.

 

Thank you 3SGTEme, PGMFI.org
Wherever you are.

I repaired my P28 ECU after HOURS of reading posts where people didn't report the fixes, or it was something not even related, "I forgot I cut the wire" etc.

I was close to mailing it off for repair.
His mention of Q38/Q39 did it. Q38 was fine in my case.
Replaced Q39 c144 transistor with NOS part from Cameo Electronics on Ebay.
Started right up, I can't believe it.

Thank you also ls joker! For trying to help me. Good Luck to you, friend.