14.7 ?
take a step back. this is a board for sharing info and helping one another.
your comments dont match that criteria.
personally, I would do an allpoints inspection on the car motor. considering you are running nitrous, you may be experiencing some component wear. perhaps things arent completely set up properly. I wouldnt spray for a while unless I knew the compression and internals were sound on the motor.
your comments dont match that criteria.
personally, I would do an allpoints inspection on the car motor. considering you are running nitrous, you may be experiencing some component wear. perhaps things arent completely set up properly. I wouldnt spray for a while unless I knew the compression and internals were sound on the motor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by speedypeite »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">naw the 2000 civic si has a b16a2 witch is 160 chp withc i was told is about 138 whp usually. most of the stock si were running anywhere from a 16.5 to about a 16.2</TD></TR></TABLE> WTF... dude i am pretty sure that 99-00 Si's run nywhere from 15.7 and lower depending on driver, and conditions. Mid 16s are pretty damn slow for even a stock Si. The EP3 may run times like that i dont know.. but EM1's are quicker than that. A 14.7 would sond great, if it werent for the nitrous.
But nevertheless, good time
But nevertheless, good time
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stevel »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'll say what I want when I want so F$@# U!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ahh, the words of an intelligent person.
Ahh, the words of an intelligent person.
When i had a d16 I/h/e, tuned i ran a 15.9. That thing smoked si's all day with the same setup, those things are total poop, the only reason to buy one is the lower insurance than a gsr. . . . Thats the only reason. The fastest one ive seen run was a 15.2 on slicks with a 50 shot. That is reason enough to not buy it, might as well buy a cavalier z24
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by likaciv »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When i had a d16 I/h/e, tuned i ran a 15.9. That thing smoked si's all day with the same setup, those things are total poop, the only reason to buy one is the lower insurance than a gsr. . . . Thats the only reason. The fastest one ive seen run was a 15.2 on slicks with a 50 shot. That is reason enough to not buy it, might as well buy a cavalier z24
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Go noob powar!
</TD></TR></TABLE>Go noob powar!
LOL the import wannabe? Those are some harsh words. I think the reason that civic si's were turning out times like 15.7 was because it was a professional driving the car and the civic si was obviously targeting younger buyers. So who knows what Honda did to those cars before they sent them to Road and Track. It does make you wonder because I have heard of the old CRX Si (which is supposed to run 16.5) running 15.2 stock. My friend's CRX si beat my 90 Integra last night and he beat my friend's 2001 Eclipse GT. Some cars are just freaks and they are probably sent to car magazines for road tests first.
i have a feeling its a tunning problem and i have a stock bottom and head of the motor minus the cams i still reline at 8200 just like all the other si. and i raced a bone stock one when i hit my 14.7 and he ran a 16.2
I think the most overlooked point in tuning on these boards is proper maintainence of the total machine in general. If you have a true baseline understanding of what they car or machine does well, and what it does marginally or poor, you can direct your efforts toward the weaknesses. modifying a car is an art/skill especially where gains are concerned. sometimes a very well maintained stock car is faster than some modded cars just because the owner of the machine knows how to keep it and the subsequent systems running optimally. Tuning and proper operation run hand in hand. Most drivers of modified cars also beat the living, ever loving snot out of their/our cars. In most cases, dont have the knowledge and/or resources/network to keep things running optimally. Honda Tech and places like it has been a great help to me in the past 1.5 years or so
I dont know, just making a point.
I dont know, just making a point.
it still sounds rightish to me. but i think it might be slow due to a large combination of things. first off the track in Fontana sux, it was wet and not that great for traction, his tires were"bald", he probably doesn't know how to drive, improper tuning is the main prob i think.
so now going with IMO the main problem tuning. what nitrous system are you running? do you have a purge valve? if not do you manually purge it? what pressure was the bottle at? what was your fuel pressure? do you have a nitrous heater? how is nitrous activated? what gears a you squeezing in? and not really a tuning question but what rpm do you launch at? and do you burn out?
if the bottle is not kept at proper psi it will give a significantly different shot, too low and you will get less, too high and you will get more, heater helps keep it at 950psi. if you do not purge (manually or with valve) then you will have air in the line and it will mess up the whole thing. if your system uses a fuel pressure safety switch throw it away they all do not work, if that is the problem then you will not even squeeze anything.
so now going with IMO the main problem tuning. what nitrous system are you running? do you have a purge valve? if not do you manually purge it? what pressure was the bottle at? what was your fuel pressure? do you have a nitrous heater? how is nitrous activated? what gears a you squeezing in? and not really a tuning question but what rpm do you launch at? and do you burn out?
if the bottle is not kept at proper psi it will give a significantly different shot, too low and you will get less, too high and you will get more, heater helps keep it at 950psi. if you do not purge (manually or with valve) then you will have air in the line and it will mess up the whole thing. if your system uses a fuel pressure safety switch throw it away they all do not work, if that is the problem then you will not even squeeze anything.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by speedypeite »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a feeling its a tunning problem and i have a stock bottom and head of the motor minus the cams i still reline at 8200 just like all the other si. and i raced a bone stock one when i hit my 14.7 and he ran a 16.2 </TD></TR></TABLE>
Could you be more specific on what parts are on your car? List brand name, model, etc. for example:
Skunk2 Stage1 Cams
JDM DC 4-1 Header
etc. etc.
That'll help determine what you could improve on also.
Could you be more specific on what parts are on your car? List brand name, model, etc. for example:
Skunk2 Stage1 Cams
JDM DC 4-1 Header
etc. etc.
That'll help determine what you could improve on also.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Unsung EM1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Go noob powar!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup, not bad...
Go noob powar!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup, not bad...
skunk 2 manifold, skunk2 stage 1 cams, skunk 2 cam gears, aem fuel rail, b&m fuel press reg, dc 4-1 header, aem intake (i was told was too small its for a ex)apexi n1 ehaust, apexi vafc, nos dry 50 shot, i also heated my tires and launch at 5000 rpms, and if i dont then i bog off the line. ie no torque
All you need is a lil more experience, that`s all. It`ll come in time. Learn your track, shift points, etc. Nothing a few good runs and a helpful, experienced driver can`t provide you with...
Good luck
My first run(with a 180LB pasenger and at Plamdale) I had a stock GS-r in a hatch on street tires and full interior. I pulled a 14.4 w/ poor 60`s. So it`s got to do with your learning curve
Good luck
My first run(with a 180LB pasenger and at Plamdale) I had a stock GS-r in a hatch on street tires and full interior. I pulled a 14.4 w/ poor 60`s. So it`s got to do with your learning curve
Another thing that noone has mentioned- did you modify your fuel/air/VTEC at all with the VAFC? Those things are tricky, and if not done properly can/will do more harm than good. If your car is not getting the proper mixture at the proper time, it will respond very poorly. If you did at all, I suggest bringing those back to stock levels and try again. Get a good baseline, then tune from there. the only way to 'successfully' tune a VAFC is with some dyno time and someone who REALLY knows how to tune one, IMO.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by speedypeite »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where is a good place to tune my car???
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Have you tried searching? I know socal and norcal tuners have been covered many times on this board. And BTW> I hit 14.5@95mph yesterday. Good luck with the tuning
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Have you tried searching? I know socal and norcal tuners have been covered many times on this board. And BTW> I hit 14.5@95mph yesterday. Good luck with the tuning
I think you can do way better than that maan at least get it down to 14.5, cause over here in alaska someone is running a b16 on an eg coupe with gude cams, intake , header , with no exhaust and a pair of drag radials hitting 14.2 all day.
But nice times though on an Civic si.
But nice times though on an Civic si.
If you don't have it tuned then those cams and gears are not going to do **** for you. I am also wondering why you didn't upgrade the clutch. The stock clutch in Si's is pretty shitty. I have heard this from many Si owners. Get a CM stage 3 or 4 and that will solve your problems
. Mark my words!!!!
. Mark my words!!!!
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danimaltron
Honda Civic (2006 - 2015)
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Apr 23, 2007 05:48 PM




