Guys I have no idea what is going on. I have 96 accord and 98 h22a. No problems up until the past week.

It started out where I would put the key and turn the ignition on but once i tied to crank the car the power cuts out like i blew a fuse and nothing turns on. No blown fuses but after that when you put the key in ignition u get nothing. Not even a door light. Only way to get power back was to take out the battery negative and reconnect. But then the same thing happens, put the key in ignition, pop, no power. No blown fuses.

Now for some reason when I put in the key and turn the ignition on I dont even get any power. Lights dont turn on, absolutely NOTHING. Door lights dont even turn on with the doors open and the light around the key doesnt even light up.

Then when I try to jump my car or attach the jump starter (which I am using) I get power right away. Door lights come on when the door opens and the car starts normally. Turn off the car with the jump starter still attached and the car will start normally again. Take off the jump starter pack and I get no power again so I cant even try to start the car. This is a new battery with 12.5v tested without the car on.

No CELs. ONLY way to get power to my car right now is to connect the jump starter.

Whats the deal? Ill pay you $50 to fix this. Ive worked with cars for awhile.

 

have you checked all the grounds, especially the one from the battery to chassis?

 

Bad ground or battery. Make sure there's no paint where ur trying to ground out to. Try a couple different places if u have to

 

Definatly check the batt. to chassis and chassis to engine ground.

Make sure batt. posts and cable clamps are clean and tight.

Meter the batt. at the batt. posts, then at the clamps, then open the door or try and start the car so you loose power and retest at the batt. posts and at the clamps.



Check the batt. to fuse box connection and make sure the screws holding the main fuses in place are tight, better yet, remove the fuses and make sure contact surfaces are clean. 94

 

like they said check the ground on the batter, along with positive, check your alternator's wires and battery to make sure it's holding a charge. recheck all fuses i say all incase you have a blown one you didnt know about. Make sure there isnt corrosion on any grounds to frame, or at the battery terminals. usally there's a little bit at the terminals steel wool takes care of it. Report back

 

GROUNDS,ALTERNATOR......

 

It sounds like the battery could be low on charge. 12.5 volts on a good/new battery looks like about 75% charge on this chart. See (A).

http://www.odysseybatteries.com/file...M-006_0208.pdf

While this is an Odyssey, other SLA batteries are similar, though the curve may slightly higher or lower.

On some used batterys, the charge, similar to amperage, or CCA is very low with a voltage of 12.5. In fact, voltage is a poor indicator without knowing more about the battery. Does it accept a charge, or does it seem full when trying to charge? Friends TL battery was 12.5v when it quit turning over the TL. It would rapidly seem full to a charger and then not turn over the engine. Turn on the ignition and check the voltage, or the headlights. If not good, then the voltage will drop quickly, as no amperage behind the voltage. Of course you could also just take the battery for a check, but poor man's home check is voltage against load. A new battery fully charged should be about 12.8+ volts and not drop much against a brief headlight load.

I know batteries functionally from Radio control chargers and using SLA car batteries for voltage sources, and then charging the car batteries, not an expert. Some of the chargers will measures amps in or out while charging or discharging, as well as voltage.

 

with the car running, ensure that the alternator is charging the battery. should be 14v+ while running, if not your battery wont have enough juice to start it up again

 

Check the battery voltage while cranking. Static test isn't going to tell you much.

 

Your gonna need a new key ignition. And clean off your terminals, grounds, and check your wires going to and from your alternator.

 

poss starter contacts shorting feel the starter after you get the first click is it getting hot ? if it sticks it will suck alot of power had a toyota do this good luck

 

It seems like your wires and ground are intact - you can start the car with a booster battery. Are you adding the booster to the battery terminals without changing grounds or any wiring? If the battery is bad, then a few minutes of headlights on, will definitely drop the voltage. If the battery is good then the headlights will not drop voltage much in a several minutes. Voltage can be fairly low when trying to crank, even on a good battery, so I am not sure of a good voltage during crank. While alternator may be the cause eventually, it still sounds like a bad/low battery for the immediate symptoms.

 

sounds like corrision in the battery cables. check them if they are ate up replace them.

 

i'd have to say check the following ...

- grounds and wires that are intact, voltage can still be high on the battery but if the CCA are low on the battery it still won't have the full potential and you might experience some faulty errors starting the vehicle at some points or not get any lights at all. check the alternator on AC as well when the vehicle is charging.

 

So, what was found or is this still a problem?

 

You either have dirty battery posts/cable connectors or the cable wires going into the connectors are corroded, your jumper is on the outside of the connectors and possibly even touching the bare wire of the cables.

Do you have those 50 cent copper colored battery terminals attached to your cables or are the connectors still original, either way, you could have a weak connection.

 

good stuff, this actually started happening yesterday to my friends truck,when he goes to crank it everything shuts off like theres no power from the battery but when he backs the key off power comes right back, im checkin it out this weekend if its something besides all that ill let you know

 

checking the battery voltage should be the first thing.

 

i think the guy doenst want to give out the $50 since he has not posted again. haha well to answer the question....grounds and check alternator. the alternator my be on its way out and does not have enough crank with one battery. i had this exact problem with my old 97 accord, swapped the alternator and everything worked perfect.

 

I know what the problem is but $50 isnt gonna cover my fee...

 

Chassis grounds like to cause this