I have a beat car, I mean BEAT, and I got $400 to fix it. Its an 89 civic wagovan w/ 220k (original engine). Here's the "list":

Blue Smoke out tailpipe on accel, sparks covered in oil, grime ALL OVER the block

Rough Idle, not too bad, but erratic, makes the whole car shake

Lights dim on idle didn't used to, alternator going bad?

Suspension knocking, front dirver's side...struts already replaced, what next?


Seems to me that I would need
a.) new alternator
b.) new head gasket (PLEASE tell me something else, I don't have time for a DIY rebuild)
c.) a shitload over other stuff

on an engine that old, u guys think its worth it?
other option: new motor....where's the best place to get a used d15 B2 or maybe a D16 A6

thanks to anybody who responds, lemme know who you are so I can thank you

 

First things I would do is fix your engine problems. New plug wires, new plugs, new air filter, and change your oil. Since you are burning it, I would try some 15w-40 or something thick like that. See how your engine runs after doing those things.
As for your headlights, I would take your car down to Autozone or some other parts store and get your battery and alternator load tested. If you have access to a multimeter you can do it yourself. If your battery and alternator are ok, check your headlight grounds. As for the suspension, check your bumpstops and make sure they are still in tact. There is always the possibility you got defective struts. Good luck.

 

I'd say buy a new block.....it would probably be cheaper that way than try to fix everything that's wrong with it....call up Brian at MidAtlantic Motorsports in Baltimore, he has a few SOHC motors lyin around that i'm sure he'll hook you up with...410-918-0928
He is on this board under "LSiTurbo"

 

thx guys...I actually had the alt replaced (rebuilt) 5 yrs agoand the battery is brand new; I think its the only new thing under the hood. I have been using 10W-40 for quite some time and changing every 3k. I usually have to put 250 mL in every week cause it burns so much...I'll use the hookup in Balt for sure. 'preciate the kindness to a noob.

 

i show kindness to *****....

 

Swap it. Just a cheap motor lying around in a yard, you`ll address most of your issues there. Re-builds are costly, trust me...I know 3x`s over But it`s a Gs-r and I love it, so I continue to dick with it.

For you tho, it should`nt cost more than 300 for a new motor and install is cake...just search swap threads

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicEK.PDX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i show kindness to *****.... </TD></TR></TABLE> As long as there nice to me.

 

i have a dseries alternator if you want it. it pushes 12 volts

 

u could drop the car off at my house if u dont want it.

 

since you're on a budget, I' start with cheap options first. Get some Lucas Oil Treatement or "Restore" and see if they seal the motor up a bit. It'll take a week or 2 before you'll start to notice a change in oil consumption.

Other than that, just some basic tune up parts like, CRX PAT said. Cap, rotor, plugs, wires and put a bottle of FI cleaner in the tank. Total cost for this stuff will be under $100. If the motor is just too far gone for these things to make a difference, you've still got some money in your budget for another D series and all those tune up parts will swap right over.

 

couldnt you put either a d16z6 or a ZC in there? you can get those super cheap and if your tranny is still good no need to swap that out... id say its doable for 400 bux

 

If the plugs are covered in oil its probably the valve cover gasket

 

thx again guys...I've been trying to find advice like this from my dealer; needless to say they've been less thean cooperative.

I've been looking into the details of replacing the valve cover gasket, and I think after I replace the plugs wires, clean the fuel injectors etc (the easy stuff), I'll do it. If it STILL sucks after that, then I think I'll throw in the towel and drop it off at kyle h's house...hope you like rust on your lawn.

Any idea what the bouncy ideal could be? Vacuum leak? Faulty IACV? Something cheap to fix?

 

take off the IACV and clean it with throttle or brake cleaner.

 

too bad you in md, im always up for free cars....got one sitting in my yard right now...a 90 cavilier w/ perfect paint, tires, etc....needs&gt; a new headasget and some hg bolts all of which will cost me 80 bucks a little time and ill have a good winter beater...in you case id say swap a diffrent motor in, complete swap which you know is good...we did a dseries in a delsol last night in 6 hours w/ no engine hoist (ghetto style)...youll learn a lot that way to! good luck

 

The knocking in the suspension does it come at full lock or is it happening all of the time. You might want to check your cv boots to make sure they are intact. You might want to check your compression also. Low compression in one or more cylinders could be causing your rough idle. Motor swap is probably the most ideal. If you have to change your axles cuz the cv's are bad you'll be burning up more of your $400.

Good Luck

 

why not just buy a longblock? they're cheap

 

over 200,000 miles hummm. I bet your ball joints and wheel bearings are toast.

 

with over 200K miles, your rings are probably toast. do a comp. test.

 

Comp test? That mean check ECU codes? As for my wheel bearings and ball joints, they prob are toast like the rest of the car...but I'm not out for speed or looks (good thing, huh?), I'm out for a car that will start and run most of the time. but whenever I back up with the windows down (no AC) I get a facefull of blue smoke. Somethin's gotta give, and I think its gonna be my wallet.

 

im sorry, i meant to write it all out. do a compression test. lol. sorry bout that.

 

definately use restore... compression test or not...

are the plugs wet with oil on the insulator (wire end) or the electrode (sparking end) if it's the wire end (insulator) then it's the "spark plug tube seal" not the valve cover gasket (which don't come with a stock honda valve cover gasket unless you ask for them specifically (unless you get a felpro one then they do come with the vc gasket)

If they're wet on the spark end then I wouldn't bother doing a vc gasket it's un-needed... then its just straight oil pissing past the rings... in which case you could either rebuild it or through in some restore and hope for the best... I've seen restore work miracles and fall flat on it's face... so Good Luck.

 

Go around to the local junkyards and see if you can pull yourself a D16A6, or even another D15B2...they should be no more than 4 or 500 for the complete swap

 

not to be a d*ck but he obviously has WAY more problems with this car then just burning oil...

after a 400 swap turns into 600 with misc. crap... he's still gunna have bad ball joints and probobly countless other probs. on the way with over 200k on the chassis.e

I'd say try restore for the engine if that don't work sell it as a beater to someone else and buy something that's a little more reliable (lower miles). If the cars been neglected this long it's not gunna have much life left in anything.

 

Tune Up, and Alignment...preventative maintenence, then drive it into ground...

Suprdave