jdmteg1728

ive been searching a lot of different rear strut tower bars and setups and im kinda leanin towards the 4 point just didnt know if anyone had any input on this topic. i dont wanna spend an extra $120 for the 4 point if it doesnt make a difference in function compared to the 2 point

PreyStayShun

What are your current suspension mods? (IE- money can probably be spent much better elsewhere "suspension-wise") Is this a track car or daily driver?

Strut towers are highly controversial w/most saying they do little to nothing at all. After many searches and debate I decided spending any money on a bar like this is pointless. The function doesn't outweigh the cost. Its a "bling" factor for the most part.

alphalanos

Yeah make sure you have good tires (meaning good for the intended use, ie sticky summer tires for dry weather) a good suspension setup, the maintenance is up to par, etc. Then if you have money to burn go ahead and get either one. They dont make much difference in anything but the hardest track driving.

Tyson

A rear strut bar doesn't do much because there's not much gained by stiffening the rear chassis.

The front strut bar is beneficial because there's a lot going on up front that could use more chassis stiffening.

So skip the rear and get the front.

PreyStayShun

^^^I agree w/Tyson.

With that being said and you do decide to look into front strut towers read up here for some good info:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes-54/2-point-vs-3-point-front-upper-strut-bar-2704864/

GL Op!

jdmteg1728

well its my daily driver. ive got asr subframe brace and swaybar just put on skunk2 pro c coilovers today. ive got some 215/45/17 bfg g force kdw t/a's so there pretty sticky. i plan on getting a b pillar bar and rear strut tower bar and front strut bar as well. id like it as stiff as i can get it. no one has really answered my question as to how much difference the 4 point would make over the 2 point besides looks

Tyson

How exactly would you like that difference quantified?

Of course joining more parts together is going to make things stiffer. Is it worth anything? No, since its not worth stiffening the rear chassis.

jdmteg1728

that makes sense. idk im just thinking about it too much. so skip the rear strut bar and go with a front bar. thanks tyson

rayvo

iTrader: (1)

Im looking into getting one of these myself... all i can say is that passwordjdm is known for making high quality parts. Im sure that if it didn't serve purpose they wouldn't waste there time making it...

I can say from my own experience with there parts, everything is easy install, direct fit and overall just has the appearance of quality. Ive purchased several of there products for my ek and my ruckus and i dont have a complaint about any of them..

TunerN00b

FTFY.

rayvo

iTrader: (1)

im unfamiliar with you abreviations bro

TunerN00b

And Google is broken?

Fixed That For You.

Again, FTFY.

Libertariat

Just because a product exists and kiddies like to cover their car with the parts doesn't mean it's a good product.

I mean, do you need a better example than beaks bars?





Tyson is exactly right. It is not a worthwhile upgrade unless you really just have no other modifications left to do to the car and you've got money lying around.

I mean, if you were really serious about tightening up the rear end you would weld in a roll cage.

rayvo

iTrader: (1)

ok and now lower tie bars like the beaks bar does nothing??

why would cars come from the factory with strut tower bars?

And your saying spoon, mugen, skunk2, carbing, comptech, beaks.. etcetc make all these strut and lower tie bars "because little kiddies like to cover there cars in parts"

btw i have yet to see or build a car that "that has no modifications left to do".

Its all opinion in my eyes and in my opinion rear strut bars DO serve purpose to the rear suspenion

rayvo

iTrader: (1)

sorry bro i dont rely on google to get me through life... maybe you should google how SWO.... SPELL WORDS OUT.

98civdx

Beaks bars don't do a damn thing.

Libertariat

The beaks bar is ineffective at preventing sub-frame tear-out. Pairing the beaks bar with an effective part like ASR or Function7 is redundant.

No one is saying strut bars are useless. Not in the slightest. I think most of the people in here are just saying that for 99% of people the money is better spent elsewhere.

And as I said, if you're really serious about chassis stiffening you would weld in a roll cage. A roll cage is cheaper than covering the car with password: JDM stuff. Which, by the way, is very high quality stuff.

And further, Yes, companies do produce useless parts for the sole purpose of making money and the only reason being is that there is a market for it. If people didn't buy it, companies wouldn't produce it. Simple economics.

00IntegrAllmotoR

iTrader: (1)

Lol how is there no benefit to stiffening the rear of a vehicle?
Reducing understeer being one.

rayvo

iTrader: (1)

This thread was started to compare passwordjdm's 2pt strut bar vs 4pt strut bar, not about welding cages in your car. if he were going all out and tracking his car... sure chop up your interior to weld in a cage buddy! From the sounds of it, its going in his daily on 17's

JSYK a WELDED in cage would be considered permanant... not everyone wants to put a cage in there car to stiffen up the rear end in there daily

and further... im confused on how you think a cage would be cheapier than a $250 strut bar? The material alone for a cage would cost 250$... then you need a pipe bender and welder, sounds pricey. eitherway i think your looking for the fabrication section to preach to

rayvo

iTrader: (1)

bunch of know it all legendary race car builders in here.... dont believe it just ask them!

TunerN00b

And how would any stiffening provided (assuming there is any) reduce understeer?

00IntegrAllmotoR

iTrader: (1)

Rayvo I hope that isn't intended towards me, cuz I didn't mention a cage.

To Tuner:
What do u think the benefits are of a larger rear sway in the rear? Looks....And I'm talking about rear stiffening in general ie. why I quoted the line. To help not give false info to the op. now to Jdmteg, no u won't see any difference between the 2. But it's ur car do what u please.

TunerN00b

A swaybar has nothing to do with chassis stiffening. All a swaybar does is provide an addition spring tying the 2 sides of the suspension together, speeding the transfer of load and providing additional suspension stiffness in roll.

So, back to the question. How does rear chassis stiffening reduce understeer. Please explain the how the principle works, and then we can discuss if a particular implementation could achieve that.

Kozy.

A sway bar for looks? I'm not sure where you are coming from, but you do know a sway bar doesn't have the same effect as a strut brace right?

OP, buy whichever one you think looks nicest, that's all it's gonna be there for after all.

00IntegrAllmotoR

iTrader: (1)

LOWER ARM BAR:
designed to reduce the flex of the vehicle chassis where it is connected by the Lower wishbone of the suspension system, thus to lessen the distortion of the vehicle lower suspension when it is under load, especially during hard cornering.
REAR STRUT BAR & REAR UPPER BAR:
The rear strut bar is use to support the rear section of the chassis, so that the force generated during hard braking and driving can be reduced.
The Rear Strut Bar is particularly useful for an FF vehicle. The Understeer behavior can be corrected by stiffening the rear chassis by installing a Rear Bar.
Rear Upper Bars is designed for vehicles with high roof and high CG (Centre of Gravity) such as MPV's, mini MPV's, SUV's and Hatch Backs.
Initially, Rear Upper Bar is invented specially for the 5 Doors Hatch Back cars. The 5 Door Hatch Back cars have weaker rear upper body due to their wide opening rear door. Under extensive investigation and actual road proving, it corrected the shortcoming of the vehicle’s swaying rear upper body.
ANTI-ROLL BAR / SWAY BAR:
Anti Roll Bars (also known as anti-sway bars, sway bars or lower tie bars) affect the handling of the car on the lower end of the suspension. Sway bars tie the lower suspension components together across the front or back, and affect a car's over steer and under steer. Sway bars will keep your car flat in turns instead of leaning over to one side. They distribute energy from the side of the car with all the force from the turn on it to the other side of the car, bringing the whole car down flat instead of leaning to one side. Of course the car will still lean some, but not as much. Sway bars provide better cornering especially at high speeds and work very well in conjunction with strut tower bars. However, they can have an adverse affect in off-road situations by leaving one tire completely off the ground.
LOWER ARM BAR:
designed to reduce the flex of the vehicle chassis where it is connected by the Lower wishbone of the suspension system, thus to lessen the distortion of the vehicle lower suspension when it is under load, especially during hard cornering. Improving the stiffness at the area where the lower arm is connected to the vehicle chassis. Also keeps camber accurate during hard cornering.
ROOM BAR / SIDE FLOOR BAR:
It is the bar linking both the B-Pillars within the passenger compartment. The effect of room bar is particularly obvious for a four-door sedan. This is because four-door sedan has a longer body than the hatch-back or coupe, the chassis is by nature weaker than the later two.

Komodo obviously didnt take my sarcasm.

Im done here, not gona explain anymore for a street driven car. Take it to the track to see if parts work or not.