Hello.

I'm trying to decide between a few choices I have here...

Tein RE + EDFC
Ohlins PCV
Koni 2812 (overkill ? - streetable at all (I can choose spring rates)? (compared to previous two))

You may have noticed that the latter two setups are a bit more pricey, and the Koni 2812 is probably the 'best' performer of the bunch (but perhaps overkill). My hunch is that the Ohlins setup will be the best compromise...

Application: DC2-R, Frequent street car 5k miles/year, Track car (road-courses) and Auto-X.

I guess I'd need something suitable for both, but I can take a rough ride on the streets. I'd want something durable though...something I won't have to rebuild every year.

Do people generally run the pillowball spherical bearings on these setups? I'm a bit new to that idea...

Edit: I see that pillow mounts are generally discouraged for our double-wishbone setups; plus bone-shaking vibration might get to me...I'll investigate further, but it seems that the coilovers listed come with them anyway...and Kendall seems to think his Ohlins ride fine.

Any advice/suggestions? Any other comparable setups? (I've researched, and penske/moton might come up, but I don't know enough about them)


Modified by archmage at 4:01 PM 2/2/2005


Modified by archmage at 4:28 PM 2/2/2005


Modified by archmage at 4:46 PM 2/2/2005

 

kw suspension also seems to offer a competitive line of product, choose how much you want to spend...

http://www.kwsuspensions.com/

moton and penske are uber shocks. do you really want to spend that much on suspension?

 

is it really necessary to go that high end? what spring rates do you plan to run? what class do you run in autox? i'd think you could get as good a bang as you need for less than $1500.

 

when getting into stuff like the 2812, you really really really need to know how to tune your suspension. Because if you don't then you will spend a long time trying to figure it out and be slow. 90% of club racers are just as fast on something like a Koni yellow with SPSS valving. SO do you REALLY need that much of a shock?

Im not sure if its online but if it is go to grassrootsmotorsports.com and check out there article in there most recent issue, "Driving Diary: Going Faster by Looking Forward". It sheds some very good light from the aspect of a pro team on spending money were when how and why.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by archmage &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hello.

Do people generally run the pillowball spherical bearings on these setups? I'm a bit new to that idea...

Edit: I see that pillow mounts are generally discouraged for our double-wishbone setups; plus bone-shaking vibration might get to me...I'll investigate further, but it seems that the coilovers listed come with them anyway...and Kendall seems to think his Ohlins ride fine. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I run pillowball spherical bearings on the street, they aren't recommened for the street. But i run them combined with 600f 800r

 

I think you guys are right.

koni 2812 is definitely overkill...I'm not going to be able to utilize it anyway.
Moton and Penske are also most likely overkill, and too expensive.

Ohlins PCV (used)
Tein RE + EDFC
and now, KW susp.

I think I'd like to limit this to about $2.25k

For spring rates, I don't think I want anything super stiff, probably set 800 lbs as the limit for either F/R.

Anyone have any comments on the Front-Bias used on some Ohlins setups? Does it make any sense for our FF cars? I'm leaning toward an Ohlins PCV setup here (if I can find one used), but of course I'm still open to suggestion.

I'm going to emphasize road/track-racing more than scca auto-x here; it's just more interesting to me.

Thanks for your help.

 

really, you don't need to be spending that kind of money... is it a race car or just a track day car? if you're not a pro racer i'd stick with what i said before, anything over $1500 is just unnecessary.

 

maybe he has more money then he knows what to do with?

If you dont want to run spring rates all that high why do you need such expensive coilovers? go cheaper. You wont be able to feel the difference. Save the money and do the rest of the suspension, or spend the rest on books and track time to figure out what really makes a suspension good.

 

Well

I figure Kendall got his Ohlins PCV used for about $1350. I'm willing to spend a little more than that for the same thing (if in good condition). That falls at about your $1500 spec.

As for the Tein RE + EDFC; heh...let's just say that this is also well within your $1500 alottment (Yes, I know they cost much more than this)

I have money, but I've budgeted just this set amount for coilovers. I'll probably invest in an AspecRacing rear-sway and some traction bars; something to aid my coilovers.

I'm no pro-racer; it's not a pure race-car, but I'd like to call it my compromised FWD race car. If it were a full-race-car, it'd be RWD (probably a Lotus Exige), and then I'd definitely consider those Koni 2812's

So at that pricepoint, if I can get them, why not eh? If not, then perhaps I'll just go with a cheaper setup (GC + koni Y maybe).

 

for around 400 a corner you can get the 3011/12 (not sure which one is the cheaper, because its heavier metal), they are double adjustable and really good. If its something you are interested in contact user "andrie" he has them on his 99 civic.

 

excellent.

I messaged Andrie about the Koni 3011's.
I'm still concerned that they may be too aggressive a setup for the streets though; still might be overkill. Well, it's that, and this would easily break the $1500 barrier; it's closer to $2k after everything. I'll think about it...

Next up: research why the hell some Ohlins are rear-biased for spring-rates.

Anyone? (heh, I'll search soon)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by archmage &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">excellent.

I messaged Andrie about the Koni 3011's.
I'm still concerned that they may be too aggressive a setup for the streets though; still might be overkill. Well, it's that, and this would easily break the $1500 barrier; it's closer to $2k after everything. I'll think about it...

Next up: research why the hell some Ohlins are rear-biased for spring-rates.

Anyone? (heh, I'll search soon)</TD></TR></TABLE>

well most US FWD racers set there cars up for a rear bias. It's to counter act the FWD want to understeer.

If i were you id go with some used koni yellow's shipp them off to koni and have a re-build, re-valve and shorten if you like, for what you want, a commen off shelf valving is the SPSS3 i have it on my koni yellows i dunno how it is i haven't driven on it, but everyone else loves it.

that should cost around 600 do get it done from koni, + the cost of the used ones.

then around 330 for ground controls for the koni's with custom rates, and then add 400 for the ground control spherical mounts or 200 for the street extended travel mounts.

so 600 for the revalve job, 300 for the used koni's (about) 330 for the GC and then 400 for the spherical mounts, thats about 1900 in your suspension. YOu can knock 200 off that by useing the other GC mounts or you can just use stock mounts and knock 400 off it.

And thats my setup, only i searched long and hard and found some brand new SPSS3 valved koni's for 600.

**** i never sat down and add up the money into my suspension, wwweeffffeeee thats alot

 

After talking with Andrie and CRX Lee, and completing research of my own, I have come to a few reasonable conclusions.

Koni 8041 (new release) may be the best bet (for a Koni offering). I can start with softer spring rates, and move up from there.

I still do not know enough about Ohlins PCV to spend that kind of money. There is no shock-dyno I know of, only personal reviews...so what if a few people like them; it'll take a bit more to convince me I guess.

The Tein setups are overrated.

Let it be known that most of these uber-setups are overkill for anything but a dedicated track *****

Thanks slammed_93_hatch.
Thanks to everyone who contributed.

 

if you end up going with the 8041 let us now how you like it, and make sure you post a dyno

 

is that the "race ready" revalve koni's lee was talking about before?

 

I believe it is the race-revalve, just conveniently done for us.

Lee has stated that there is no rear part for the Type R though

We'd have to revalve the sport offering, or swap for regular Teg LCAs... (which would you think is the better option?)

Yea I'll be sure to let you guys know how I like the 8041's if I get them (but it'll be a couple weeks before they're available).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by archmage &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
We'd have to revalve the sport offering, or swap for regular Teg LCAs... (which would you think is the better option?)

Yea I'll be sure to let you guys know how I like the 8041's if I get them (but it'll be a couple weeks before they're available).</TD></TR></TABLE>

is there a real benifit to running the typeR LCA? im not sure, but i don't think it would be horrible to make the switch out to the non-ITR LCA

 

swap to regular teg lcas.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by archmage &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">II think I'd like to limit this to about $2.25k</TD></TR></TABLE>

Have you considered Koni 3011's? Also custom built, and they can do the mountings for you - about $400/corner, add springs and top hats (GC 'race' tophats would work well) and you're under budget

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleepydude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you dont want to run spring rates all that high why do you
need such expensive coilovers? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Because good dampers make a huge difference.

 

Yea I considered the Koni 3011 already.

I decided that it was possibly overkill. I can afford it; it'd be at the limits of my budget, but do I really need it? The matter isn't settled yet, I'm still deciding, but for now, I'm swayed toward a simpler setup.

I'll see about it...

 

koni is hard to beat. not only to you get a tried and proven product, but you get people like Lee Grimes who are there to help you out with whatever you need.

Koni