function form type 2 extended top hats
or like how the other guys may have already said; if there is no slack in the spring, there is no need for a tophat.
i cant complain about my function and forms, they're doing a way better job than a stock shock and coilover sleeves will ever do. But function and forms dont go as low as you would wish without messing with the preload and spring postition
i cant complain about my function and forms, they're doing a way better job than a stock shock and coilover sleeves will ever do. But function and forms dont go as low as you would wish without messing with the preload and spring postition
also did you make sure when you put the top hats on that you preloaded the springs back to the rate set at by f2, because it says right on the shocks do not mess with the factory preload on the springs or you will mess with the shocks function and ride quality, ide say set it to the stock preload then shorten the lower mount and that should help if you havnt already done so
also did you make sure when you put the top hats on that you preloaded the springs back to the rate set at by f2, because it says right on the shocks do not mess with the factory preload on the springs or you will mess with the shocks function and ride quality, ide say set it to the stock preload then shorten the lower mount and that should help if you havnt already done so
*the car was really really low(rim was at fender almost layed frame)an the ride was **** UNTIL we took off the front sway bar(22mm or 24mm cant remember) so those of you having bounce problems should try it because his car was bouncy a.f thanx to the sway bar
the concept is the same (to extened the shock travel) i dont think it matters if its on a full coilover or shocks/springs of the brand suspension
hello guys could someone tell me if this works? I have a crv RD1 with the same problem muchi bounces I wanted to know if putting them top hats will fix that problem?
please help me
please help me
I ran into the same problem with a set of BC Racing Coilovers, with the recommended spring rate they sent with the package I believe it was 8k front and 6k rear. Around town, they felt fine but on the highway at 55+ you noticed this weird bouncing motion almost like being on a boat is the best I can describe it. I took it to my friend's shop and he said I need to run higher spring rates, but It was a daily and the ride was already harsh due to running low pro tires. After much research on forms, I found that the car was rake wrong. My brother had just lowered the tube all the way down causing the front to set higher than the rear. I corrected this and made the car rake towards the front by a few mm. Then I spend many weeks adjusting the damper settings to my liking and always using the same sets of roads to test it. I settle on 8 clicks from soft to hard in the rear and 12 clicks the same direction in front. Now, this does not eliminate all of the bounce but does stop it 95% of the time on the highway. I learned that the bounce is caused by your spring compressing to fast and releasing it with nothing slowing it down. The damper settings should help to reduce the up and down motion you feel after hitting a bump. Or you might have blown seals in your shocks, like how OEM shock tubes go bad you feel a bounce to them.
Hoped I made some sense.
Hoped I made some sense.
So I have functional form type two on three of my cars one of my cars has the type ones and I have a total of nine Hondas and by far function informs are my favourite I have tien z, bc, yonakas, skunk2 pro c , anf ff type 2 on my ekdc26 abd ej6 and my bb6 all currently I must just be getting really good sets or like they know that I’m picky so they send me good ones. I don’t know it’s conspiracy.
So I have functional form type two on three of my cars one of my cars has the type ones and I have a total of nine Hondas and by far function informs are my favourite I have tien z, bc, yonakas, skunk2 pro c , anf ff type 2 on my ekdc26 abd ej6 and my bb6 all currently I must just be getting really good sets or like they know that I’m picky so they send me good ones. I don’t know it’s conspiracy.
I don’t know why people say function and forms have crappy shocks. I will say that the older models and the type ones have crappy shocks, but the type twos are freaking awesome and I’ve had the older type twos and they were a little bit softer and more prone to bounce than the new type twos and I will say that these things are the smoothest coil overs had for under $1000 and although I did have them professionally. Tuned and I can hit speed bumps without going sideways and my fenders are passed my wheel. I have 15 inch wheels and 205 50 R 15 and my fender is about an inch past my wheel and I don’t have to go sideways on speed bumps. Every once in a while my exhaust will tap something but or scrape on someone’s driveway but overall all these people the reason that function and forms and any suspension sucks for you is because you didn’t have your suspension Tuned and of course, if something’s not tuned correct correctly yeah you’re dampers aren’t gonna perform at their optimum performance level. I know that people don’t normally do that for Honda Civic‘s most shops that tune suspension do it for high-end cars only because people with Honda Civic don’t have the money normally to do that. You just gotta go to a shop that does high-end cars and s2000’s kind of open the door for us to get in there if you’re from California there’s a shop called infinite motions. That tune suspension and he’s a hondaphile like us
You don't really seem to understand how this works.
I fail to see the purpose of using a part intended to sacrifice droop travel for increased compression travel on a fixed-stroke damper. The entire point of using a fixed-stroke damper is to have the ability to adjust ride height without affecting the compression:droop travel balance.
You're probably topping out the shock over every bump, which is why it rides like crap.
Put the correct upper mounts back on.
I fail to see the purpose of using a part intended to sacrifice droop travel for increased compression travel on a fixed-stroke damper. The entire point of using a fixed-stroke damper is to have the ability to adjust ride height without affecting the compression:droop travel balance.
You're probably topping out the shock over every bump, which is why it rides like crap.
Put the correct upper mounts back on.
thas not wat i want. i want something where i can sit as low as i am, and have a lil better ride. slammed is not comfortable....i understand that 110%, there is no doubt inn my mind that slammed can be in any way shape or form comfortable, but at the same time, i see people ride as slammed as i am, and im sure they dun have the same problem as me. i drive down the street and it literally feels like the car comes off the ground every time it bounces. im bouncing all over the place. dont want that. forget my theory....jus help me find a setup that can support my needs.
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