MJ23FE

Which of these bushings should i not have installed?

Incase you need more info, this is what my suspension setup will consist of.

GC/Koni Combo - 450 Front/400 Rear
GC Upper Mounts
GC Soft, Progressive 10-14mm Foam Bump Stops
'99 GSR Front LCA's
Function 7 Rear LCA's***
Rota J.SPL 15x6.5 Wheels
Falken Azenis RT-615 205/50R15 Tires
Prothane Total Bushing Kit
Honda OEM Rear Trailing Arm Bushings
ASR Rear Reinforcement Brace
USDM ITR 24mm Front Sway Bar
Mugen 26mm Rear Sway Bar
Energy Suspension Front Sway Bar Bushing
Mugen Rear Sway Bar Bushing
***-came with Energy Suspension bushings installed.

Any help would be very much appreciated.
Thanks!

-Jalal

MJ23FE

Come on guys, i know someone has something to say.

-Jalal

Tyson

im not a fan of poly in any place except the shifter.

our suspension just isnt designed the way these poly bushings is supposed to be installed. stick with stock bushings. specifically the front inner LCA bushing and the rear LCA bushings.

http://www.crxsi.com/resources...rflex/

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1563815

ymmv

MJ23FE

bump!
More insight!
-Jalal

__oversea

put some gress one those, they will make *squeak* sound..

AutoXer

I'm backing up Tyson 100% on this one.

And if you're doing poly anyway, absolutely do not use the rear trailing arm bushing.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Reviews of poly in the trailing arm have shown that it causes slight binding in the suspenison as the trailing arm tries to camber inward at the top. This causes the rear end to be unpredicatable over bumps (not cool). I haven't tried them myself, so this is just "hear-say"...

SiRay13

don't use the trailing arm bushings or the poly boots for the tie rod ends and ball joints.

hayabusa160

the one for the front lca wouldnt use it. the inner one that bolts to the subframe i had the es one and changed to the orijin spherical unit. big difference the car didnt not feel as twitchy over bumps after i changed it out.

MoonScryer

Stay with the OEM or if you need stiff, get the Mugen ones. ES/Prothane is just too stiff for Honda/Acura use, unless you like a twitchy car.

Tuesday Club

I say go all out....I have loved each set I have ever put in...Twitchy? a lil......Better than stock? you bet..... The ride is simply beautiful

DavidR

Wow, didn't think my post would be referenced. I fixed the links for the photos.

FYI, return your Poly kit.

Tuesday Club

I would keepthe kit.....Every one of us (buddies ) use them for Solo, Martin, SCCA, etc. and love them them

AutoXer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MoonScryer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stay with the OEM or if you need stiff, get the Mugen ones. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The new re-designed OEM RTA bushings are the same as the Mugens for about 1/4 of the price.

slammed_93_hatch

never any experance with poly on my race car. But on a friends he has had horrible problems. So i stay away from them. OEM rubber will be fine for the street.

DougNuts

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AutoXer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The new re-designed OEM RTA bushings are the same as the Mugens for about 1/4 of the price.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Where can I get these and for sure get the re-designed pieces?

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

52385-S21-003 is the latest part number. HondaPartsDeals.com has them for $25 each. They also have a Honda-Tech coupon code that you can search on google to get $10 off (they have a $5 handling charge)...

EF8 D-UNIT

K so the big rear trailing arm bushing is bad? I went through some trouble to get the integra ones too....Why?
And the boots for the joints?
How come I'm just finding out about this now?

-Rob

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EF8 D-UNIT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">K so the big rear trailing arm bushing is bad? I went through some trouble to get the integra ones too....Why?
And the boots for the joints?
How come I'm just finding out about this now?

-Rob</TD></TR></TABLE>

Can you please phrase your questions in the form of a question? I'm not quite sure what your asking, I just see a bunch of question marks...

SiRay13

the trailing arm bushings are bad because it's just a giant peice of poly, the stock one is rubber and it attatches at 4 points allowing for play in all directions, where the poly only allows for play up and down and not side to side. With the poly bushings I have experienced the back end of the car to become very unstable over bumps at high speeds, feels like it's trying to kick out. There's a few threads on it somewhere too. The poly caps for the joints are also not to be used- they scared the hell out of me after I first put them on so I had to change it back to stock. Not only do they make your car unstable but they don't seal too well either, Some of mine allowed water to get into the joint which made it go bad.

Tyson

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiRay13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The poly caps for the joints are also not to be used- they scared the hell out of me after I first put them on so I had to change it back to stock. Not only do they make your car unstable but they don't seal too well either, Some of mine allowed water to get into the joint which made it go bad. </TD></TR></TABLE>

explain how balljoint boots make your car unstable.


poly boots have been fine for me. they dont have a positive seal, but i dont see how anything gets in. the only reason i wouldnt recommend them is because poly has a lower melting temperature than oem rubber, but only reaches extreme high temps at the track anyway. my street car has em. tougher than thin rubber boots.

SiRay13

can't explain how it becomes unstable but once i went back to the rubber ones my problems went away. I've heard of a few other people complaining about the problem also.

Tyson

suspension bushings, likely. not because of a balljoint boot.

EF8 D-UNIT

Sorry about the wording, I ws in a bit of shock about this, no one I know knows about this. I think it's pretty fu**ed up. Probably fine for solo, what about an alignment, could ou account for the angles? I dunno.
What is energy suspension doing about this, do they know?
I'm pissed, now I have enough extra poly to do another car.

-Rob


Modified by EF8 D-UNIT at 10:55 PM 5/31/2006

ED9man

I have everything poly except trailing arms, which I don't plan on doing poly and compensator arms which I haven't done yet. As far as I can tell, it's just better. I don't have any binding/twitchyness issues as far as I can tell. Just make sure they are very well lubed. I don't see how the control arm bushings would cause any binding issues, they only move in one plane and actually bind less than factory rubber because they are free unlike the stock ones that are glued. I also have no squeaking issues, supposedly the black one are impregnated with graphite which eliminates squaking. I've never tried the reds so I don't know if it's true, I just know mine don't squeak. The only poly bushings I don't like are the trailing arm ones, since they don't allow the factory range of movement, and the radius rod ones since they seem like they might cause some binding since they are not round or soft like the factory ones and look like the could cause binding since they pivot with the up and down motion of the front LCA's and aren't shaped to pivot. An aftermarket front crossmember with spherical bearings is the best for those because it allows free motion and eliminates any back and forth movement of the front LCA's. Supposedly some of them have adjustable preload too which is supposed to make it really solid. The problem with OEM for the RTA's is you have to "clock" them so there isn't any preload on them for whatever ride height you decide. The issue with this is that you have to pick a ride height and stick with it which might be fine for some people but I'd like to be able to use my height adjustable coilovers and adjust for different situations. I think the best solution is a spherical here too, allows free range of motion without binding or preload issues. JHPUSA makes one, that's what I plan to do for my RTA's. But for all the single plane control arm bushings and the swaybar/endlink bushings I don't know why you wouldn't want to do poly if you didn't want something as harsh as spherical all around. I don't think the car is really noticeably any harsher than with the rotted rubber ones, the one exception being the very stiff radius rod ones, which transmit all of the back of forth movement of the suspension into the chassis, especially when you don't shift smoothly. The rubber ones isolate it much more, but besides that I don't think they are much if any harsher. I also haven't had any issues yet with them staying lubricated, the bushing grease is very sticky and the bushings have channels for it built it. I assume you could install grease fittings if this was an issue.

Actually I don't think tegs have radius rods, so disregard that part.

edit: The people in this thread know a lot more than me. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1563815


Modified by ED9man at 7:12 PM 5/31/2006