Alignment advice.
Ok just some background on my issue.
Had my car aligned and the steering wheel was not perfectly straight. I tried to ignore it for a week or two but it was pretty noticeable. Which is why i have 2 separate alignment print outs.
I had 195-65-15 tire on the 2000 civic si, and had the car aligned not knowing they were rubbing the inside of the chassis on tight turns. Well i could hear the noise but didn't realize they were starting to chew through the metal a bit. So 2 weeks after that I had my brakes done at a friends shop and that is where we discovered this. So i immediately opted to change the tires to a 195-55-15. After changing the tires the alignment specifically the "rear toe" has gone out of spec quite a bit after the tire change size.
Any ideas? Is the rear camber going to wear the tires out just as quick or quicker than the rear toe out of alignment?
What will i need to get that toe and camber back into spec?
How are those toe and camber numbers in the back way out of spec? Will it wear the tires very quickly or can i get by driving for a season or two before worrying about it?
I plan on putting lowering springs/struts, rear disc brake next summer.. Should i just wait to fix it next summer? or will the tires I have currently be shot by next summer?
pictures updated:
195/65/15 tires

195/55/15 tires

car is stock ride height and yes done by the same shop. I actually took it back a few weeks later because I couldn't stand the fact that the steering wheel was not aligned to the center 100% and was off a few degrees. They still couldn't even get it 100% centered in the end, but for some reason the front toe was off as well after the tire switch over which they were able to bring within spec during the second alignment.
Had my car aligned and the steering wheel was not perfectly straight. I tried to ignore it for a week or two but it was pretty noticeable. Which is why i have 2 separate alignment print outs.
I had 195-65-15 tire on the 2000 civic si, and had the car aligned not knowing they were rubbing the inside of the chassis on tight turns. Well i could hear the noise but didn't realize they were starting to chew through the metal a bit. So 2 weeks after that I had my brakes done at a friends shop and that is where we discovered this. So i immediately opted to change the tires to a 195-55-15. After changing the tires the alignment specifically the "rear toe" has gone out of spec quite a bit after the tire change size.
Any ideas? Is the rear camber going to wear the tires out just as quick or quicker than the rear toe out of alignment?
What will i need to get that toe and camber back into spec?
How are those toe and camber numbers in the back way out of spec? Will it wear the tires very quickly or can i get by driving for a season or two before worrying about it?
I plan on putting lowering springs/struts, rear disc brake next summer.. Should i just wait to fix it next summer? or will the tires I have currently be shot by next summer?
pictures updated:
195/65/15 tires

195/55/15 tires

car is stock ride height and yes done by the same shop. I actually took it back a few weeks later because I couldn't stand the fact that the steering wheel was not aligned to the center 100% and was off a few degrees. They still couldn't even get it 100% centered in the end, but for some reason the front toe was off as well after the tire switch over which they were able to bring within spec during the second alignment.
Find a different shop that's not so half-assed.
Poor toe settings will affect tire wear more so than negative/positive camber settings ever will. (I'm on -2* camber / 0* toe all around and tires are fine.)
Check your bushings, primarily the trailing arm bushing. That has a big impact on everything.
Poor toe settings will affect tire wear more so than negative/positive camber settings ever will. (I'm on -2* camber / 0* toe all around and tires are fine.)
Check your bushings, primarily the trailing arm bushing. That has a big impact on everything.
I will assume a competent technician evaluated the parts on the car for loose parts and bushings.
What type of head does the alignment machine use? Are they using the camera-target system or the wheel mounted manual sensor? If not set up on the car correctly, it can cause the alignment to change.
If the alignment tower is not securely mounted, the readings will vary depending on if technicians disturb the pole. The alignment rack will also need to be indexed to the machine at a particular height. Adjustments made at a different height will be invalid to varying degrees.
The most common cause for the rear toe being way off like that, or incorrectly adjusted, is the rear toe plates were not unlocked. If these plates are not unlocked (or unpinned) the tire will not be at a resting toe position, and thus inaccurate.
What type of head does the alignment machine use? Are they using the camera-target system or the wheel mounted manual sensor? If not set up on the car correctly, it can cause the alignment to change.
If the alignment tower is not securely mounted, the readings will vary depending on if technicians disturb the pole. The alignment rack will also need to be indexed to the machine at a particular height. Adjustments made at a different height will be invalid to varying degrees.
The most common cause for the rear toe being way off like that, or incorrectly adjusted, is the rear toe plates were not unlocked. If these plates are not unlocked (or unpinned) the tire will not be at a resting toe position, and thus inaccurate.
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