Bert209

Hello everyone, i got a major question to impose on yall and would like some feedback or a kick in the right direction. As title says i have 97 se with rear drums no ABS (yeah its that kind of thread lol) and i want to do a rear disk swap but i also whant to upgrade the front also. I currently have the entire ex rear end prep and ready to install, also i have T25 brackets and 2 front caliper options, the Legend GS 2 piston and the V6 Accord caliper. Ive must of read and re read every single post here and every other site about what needs to be done, so here goes. Will i need the 40/40 prop valve from a 92 integra or should i go with the one from an EX Accord or even the V6 model? and will my master cylinder be good enought or will i need the EX Version or the V6.Any advice and feedback (good or bad) will be greatly appreciated thank you all.

1996accordlx

Run the DA 40/40 prop valve. The EX prop valve would work, but then you'd need the brake booster, and to redo all of the lines since they are different. With the 40/40 valve it is a direct fit, you just need to steal the bracket off your stock Accord valve to mount it.

And your stock MC is fine as long as it's functioning properly. It's not much if a size difference between the LX/EX. You could swap, but again, you have to convert EVERYTHING to an EX and run custom lines.

I'm running an Acura RL 4-piston brake setup, and still have my stock LX booster and Master cylinder. I could swap, but I already replaced those when I did the brakes initially. The brakes are a bit softer than stock, due to the larger fluid capacity in the calipers, but it's not much. Adding SS braided lines really helped as well, and I have had 0 issues in the 4 years ive had the brakes now. Ive gotten quite used to it too, and it helps in emergency braking since I don't have ABS. Having a bit more travel before the brakes bite, makes it easier to modulate under heavy braking, and if you jab the pedal when someone cuts you off, I'm much less likely to lock up the brakes initially (my OEM brakes were very grabby, and easy to lock up).

Bert209

Thank you good sir, now i can finaly install it, and be done suspension wise, ive already rebuilt the front suspension and just pickd up some st sway bars with all hardware and they came with some whiteline locks for 200$, im so happy that now i can move onto the engine swaping ive holding off for years. Thank you again.

1996accordlx

Nice. Those sway bars will be a great upgrade since the SE didn't have a rear sway bar setup (since its basically an LX with the EX interior options). I have Tanabe sway bars myself, and they are one of the best upgrades I've done. Do you have any other suspension work done? Springs/shocks, or coilovers, etc?

And what swap are you leaning towards? H22?

Bert209

For the front i have a strut bar no name, all new upper control arms with spc ajustable upper ball joint, energy suspension master set, replaced inner and outer tie rods, lower ball joint, the rear is stock but the new rear has the spc ajustable upper arm, prothane rear control arm bushings, hardrace trailing arm bushings new wheel bearings, brembo blanks, already installd the Goodridge SS up front also, and just replaced with all new koni oranges with pro kit springs, I had tokico illuminas with the ground control set with 380f/280r.I swear i love the tokicos but im having more fun with the konis, i paid 800+ for them, only paid 180 for the oranges and 60 for used pro kits. For the swap im torn between the jdm h22a and a jdm f22b n/a. I love handling over power but its still nice to have fun here and there, i know the accords arent power houses so i aint trying to be all that, just enough power like 200- 220 hp, all motor preferably. as soon as work gets slow ill start posting my lol build thread, also i just got the 40/40 valve.