crazybeanery0

Today I installed my ASR subframe brace w/24mm sway bar. The install went pretty smoothly. At first I had the instructions from the ASR website for the EG chassis (http://www.asrparts.com/instru...e.pdf) but they were for the "old version" of the sub frame brace. So I searched for instructions on the "newer version" of the brace and used this https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/how-install-asr-subframe-brace-itr-sway-bar-dc2-integra-2729517/.
Anyways, my question was regarding the adjustable endlinks. I am not sure if I installed them correctly. Any input on this would be greatly appreciated. Here is what it looks like right now:



Note: The lock nut pointed above did not thread all the way through. I am planning on buying some longer bolts for it to tightened down further... I tightened down these endlink bolts to 16 ft/lbs.

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

Have you tried contacting ASR about this? I'm actually more concerned with the upper bolt through the sway bar end. What's that big round "chunk" of a piece between the bolt head and the sway bar end?

<-- really wishes someone would make adjustable end links with a "fork" style connection on top that captures both sides of the sway bar, similar to OEM Integra end links. At least that way the forces from the sway bar end and the end link would be centered over one another instead of off to the side like that. IMHO that just looks like a weak connection. And yes I know that is similar to the ball joint-style end links used on newer Civics, etc.

1.5Slowmatic

my blox links are like this BUT the big piece you have on the top i have on my LCAs. it acts as a spacer. i think you have the spacer pieces flipped around.

phunhaus

Bottom is installed correctly but the top in the second pic is not.

The tapered pieces go on either side of the spherical so it can rotate through its entire axis.

98civdx

This.

This is exactly how I have my blox endlinks installed..

Patrick, the chunk your talking about is one of the tapered peices.
The last picture is how both sides, top and bottom should look.

crazybeanery0

I went ahead a switched my "cone spacers" around as phunhaus had mentioned. I had set them up that way after reading through this thread http://www.clubintegra.com/board/showthread.php?t=31508. I'm guessing the OP set-up his endlinks incorrectly as well... I am going to e-mail ASR to clarify any confusion on this matter;I will be sure to keep you all posted! Here is how it is set up now:


And this is a copy of the paper that came with my endlink kit:

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

That sheet says the 13mm cone spacer goes on the bottom by the LCA, and the top bolt should have 2 8mm spacers.

Sooo it's still not right.

crazybeanery0

If I were to put the 13mm cone spacer at the bottom, there would not be enough threads left on the bolt for me to tighten everything down. It barely had enough thread to tighten down with the two 5mm spacers down there I have sent the e-mail to ASR so hopefully I hear back from the in the next few days...

crazybeanery0

However, on the TIP section it states to "manipulate the 13mm cone spacer location to achieve vertical endlink position at ride height." Also, the LCA they have pictured has the endlink hole in the center of the lca like the BLOX one does and not on top like the Function 7s...

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

ohhh I know why the bottom nut wouldn't go on - F7 sway bar end link holes are deeper than those on most other arms. Slightly longer bolts should do the trick.

You need to get that bottom nut all the way on because right now the nylon locking portion isn't on the threads, so the nut is not locked in place.

98civdx

I had to run extra washers with my blox endlinks to get them straight. You might need to, however you might not

1.5Slowmatic

my blox fit fine on my F7 arms with an EM1 sway

98civdx

Hmm maybe I have them in wrong, im runing si sway bar and oem lca's. I didn't get directions for them, but ill give them a second look.

crazybeanery0

So here is my conclusion to my situation. I went out and bought some longer "endlink-to-lower arm" bolts. The original ones were M10X50mm and the ones I bought were M10-1.50X70mm. Here is what it looks like after the change.

1.) Used the original bolt + lock nut up top utilizing two 5mm cone spacers.


2.) Used new long bolt + lock nut utilizing one 5mm cone spacer and one 13mm cone spacer.


3.) An overview


ASR has yet to respond to my e-mail but I am going to leave my endlinks set up this way regardless of what they say I'm positive this is the correct way to install these endlinks.

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

NOW I think you got it

crazybeanery0

Thanks for the help man! Really appreciate it. Hopefully someone can benefit from this thread in the future.

98civdx

Looks right to me.

Kswap_It

You have the wrong grade/class of steel. yours you have there are class 8.8, their suppose to be a class 10.9 steel grade.

Anyway, I ended up buying an extra set of M10x70mm (10.9) hex bolts too and they dont fit through the holes of my F7 LCAs... I have the newer F7's I guess because on yours I only see 3 holes, mine has 4.

I was wondering if there is any difference between M10x1.50x70mm and M10x1.25x70mm? and could that cause an issue when inserting them through the holes, apparently the ones I bought are too thick but they go through the End links and spacers just fine.... Help...

Linh.

The m10x1.25 should go through if you said the m10x1.50 went threw. There isn't much of a difference in the diameter.

M10=OD of thread
1.50= Coarse thread
1.25= Fine Thread

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Both of them WILL NOT thread through the LCAs if they have a 1.25 thread pitch. He said they both fit through the endlinks because they aren't threaded. Just get the proper sized bolts. Otherwise square peg round hole.

Kswap_It

Thanks Grumble... may not be the nicest way to answer a question but hey... I'll take it. lol

kyden

the holes on function7 control arms aren't threaded. at least the ones for my 99 civic aren't.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Then apparently a difference of .25 in the thread pitch makes the bolts wide enough to not fit? I'm going to go check because I have both.

Andy@AMR

Curious, but what is wrong with stock endlinks? I've never liked sphericals in swaybars, even the best brands will start to make noise eventually. There is some that will last long, but the cost for them is quite high, and most won't pay the price.

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

I don't know, I use OEM end links with my ITR 22mm rear sway. I don't like adjustable/spherical for those same reasons.