My car has been acting up strange lately and I need you guys to help me pinpoint the possible cause of it.

Recently, my car has been acting up strange at low RPMs, the car, when I first picked it up, never had the type of torque most other ITR has but I never really notice it until I drove other ITRs.

The car bogs easily without a good amount of throttle, the torque before 4000rpm has gotten really bad and sometimes, the car hesitates. This is how Bluer describes it: "You sure you don't have a B16 cams in this thing?"
Anyway, the torque didn't really help much at low end even with full SMSP setup. I will attend a tunning session to check my A/F.

Idle is also inconsistent as it will deep low enough to shut off the radio and turn it back on <without stalling> and there are times that the car simply die but fires up right back....especially with AC on.

Here are the clues:

- OEM spark plugs <10k miles>
-Spoon plug wires <20k miles>
- New all-weather battery replaced last winter
- Toda Cam Gear Gen II at 0,0 on an otherwise stock engine.
- Carburator cleaned last year
- Fuel filter, rotor changed 15k before. Valve Adjustment done 3000 miles ago.
- There is a loud click noise from the engine from time to time...especially when the car is idle and rev up by itself.


Incident History:

- The car wasn't running right and was stalling before. After some inspections, the connection of the Fields VTEC controller that came with the car isn't that great. So the controller was ripped out and ECU reset and car was fine after that <still tq less>

- Just last month before the car starts acting up, I misshifted to 2nd instead of 4th. RPM surged to 10k and I immediately went back on the clutch as I almost completly released it. The car was fine afterwards, no ticking sound and drives normal since then.

I did some research and this could be a problem with the ignitor, any other suggestions or methods to truely test out things? I'm ordering new OEM plugs and plug wires from Len today.

Plz reply.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nEoMuGen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
- Carburator cleaned last year
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there is your problem, your R has a carburetor

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nEoMuGen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">- Just last month before the car starts acting up, I misshifted to 2nd instead of 4th. RPM surged to 10k and I immediately went back on the clutch as I almost completly released it. The car was fine afterwards, no ticking sound and drives normal since then.
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Did j00 check the compression?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

there is your problem, your R has a carburetor </TD></TR></TABLE>

Dope!

I meant TB and intake manifold...you did it remember


Compression was good last summer. Car drives good above 5k rpm...you think the misshift has to do with it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nEoMuGen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Compression was good last summer. Car drives good above 5k rpm...you think the misshift has to do with it?
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Did j00 check the compression after the missed shift?

 

nope, but wouldn't the problem be more obvious if the valve or piston is damaged?

The stalling only occurs from time to time. Actually, come to think of it, the low-idle/stall thingy also happened before the misshift.

I'll check the compression this weekend.

 

WOW!

Mine last night sitting in traffic for more then an hour did almost what you said (first time ever) <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nEoMuGen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> low enough to shut off the radio and turn it back on &lt;without stalling&gt; and there are times that the car simply die but fires up right back</TD></TR></TABLE>

I also say time to ck the compression first. then ck out the ing system to make sure your grounds are 100%.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nEoMuGen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nope, but wouldn't the problem be more obvious if the valve or piston is damaged?

The stalling only occurs from time to time.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can guess, or you can take the 30 mins to check...

*shrug*

 

Pop off the distributor and check the insides. Make sure everything is clean and in good wokring order.

 

hmm the idle problem sounds like mine i had.

check the iac valve.
put in one you know its workin for test.... if the idle is better order a new one. in europe just 5 weeks delivery time .... pah....

the torque thing i dunno about....

 

i would also like to know what makes ur car run like sh*t.

Your car feels like it:
1) wants to die at low rpms
2)power and the torque just isnt there. it gets better at high rpms although i still feel like the top end should have more specially with ur MILLION DOLLAR header.
3) Turns off whenever the hell it wants to.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nEoMuGen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
- Just last month before the car starts acting up, I misshifted to 2nd instead of 4th. RPM surged to 10k and I immediately went back on the clutch as I almost completly released it. The car was fine afterwards, no ticking sound and drives normal since then.

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you never told me about this...

i would definately check compression b4 jumping to further conclusions...

 

Since Len is hooking you up with some parts....why don't you sell me those spoon plug wires?

 

Check compression asap...I can almost guarantee bent valve ( or a couple ).....also inspect dist. insides like stated above. Rotor, cap.........how many miles on the caR?