Arp head studs worth it? or just hype?
hey guys i'm daily driving a 97 civic dx and i will be boosted this spring. i've got almost everything now but i'm gonna wait for winter to pass. i picked up a y8 long block but am just gonna swap the head pending it does good on leak down and surface tests. if i do this i figured i should get a new headgasket and everyone recommends arp head studs when boosted.
so: is it just hype or will i run into issues when i'm boosted?
ill be doing a basic hmt setup with a cx mani, 13g turbo, 450's, uber, 5" jrc fmic etc. nothin big but quick and peppy for sure.
thanks i appreciate it,
Luke
so: is it just hype or will i run into issues when i'm boosted?
ill be doing a basic hmt setup with a cx mani, 13g turbo, 450's, uber, 5" jrc fmic etc. nothin big but quick and peppy for sure.
thanks i appreciate it,
Luke
well just asking if its worth it. theres no sense in wasting 80-100 bucks on them if they don't do anything.
but i've heard that boosted d's are notorious for headlift and the arp head studs supposedly will never allow that to happen.
any other opinions?
but i've heard that boosted d's are notorious for headlift and the arp head studs supposedly will never allow that to happen.
any other opinions?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 5thgen »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its also not a bad idea to replace the head bolts anyway....and through honda they are around $8 a piece. A little more money and you have arp head studs.
like someone else said, why not?.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Honda head bolts don't stretch so why would you need to buy new ones from the dealer??? I reused mine in my b16a2 and I've boost up to 18psi with no problems! I say you should be fine without them, I was going to get them but they were back ordered for a month and I needed my car out of my shop so I used my stock head bolts.... It's extra insurance, but if you not going to boost more then 8-10psi I wouldn't spend the extra money just my 2 cents
like someone else said, why not?.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Honda head bolts don't stretch so why would you need to buy new ones from the dealer??? I reused mine in my b16a2 and I've boost up to 18psi with no problems! I say you should be fine without them, I was going to get them but they were back ordered for a month and I needed my car out of my shop so I used my stock head bolts.... It's extra insurance, but if you not going to boost more then 8-10psi I wouldn't spend the extra money just my 2 cents
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i'd think he would be cool as long as he don't put alot of boost on it wouldn't you? I mean at 7-8 psi stock should do you fine. but if you start throwin on more boost yeah the would be the way to go.
Ok if you go stock and then wanna turn up the boost then your going to say I should have spent the extra money and bought arp or aebs studs.Then your buying a new head gasket ect.
Do it wright the first time it will save you money in the long run.
Do it wright the first time it will save you money in the long run.
ok, if the head turns out good. i will get the arp tuds ontop of a new gasket.
if i don't do the headswap..i will try to get my *** to do it but it seems like a pain if i don't already have the head off.
thanks for the comments
-Luke
if i don't do the headswap..i will try to get my *** to do it but it seems like a pain if i don't already have the head off.
thanks for the comments
-Luke
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 9psiTurboSI »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Honda head bolts don't stretch </TD></TR></TABLE>
I thought torque-to-yield meant they stretched?
Also, local Honda wants $15/per for headbolts. ARP are cheaper.
Honda head bolts don't stretch </TD></TR></TABLE>
I thought torque-to-yield meant they stretched?
Also, local Honda wants $15/per for headbolts. ARP are cheaper.
One of the reasons i went with arp headstuds, is the fact that they stay in the block.
The block IS aluminum after all, and fixing stripped or otherwise damaged
threads in my block is something i would rather avoid.
The block IS aluminum after all, and fixing stripped or otherwise damaged
threads in my block is something i would rather avoid.
its better to be safe than sorry spend a couple more dollars here an there and ull save money in the long run. this goes for every car part i buy.
I would buy them because I seen a case when A guy was unbolting his head to replace a blown headgasket and one of the threads stripped so he couldnt bolt the head back on. If he would have had arps then he wouldn't have had to bother with the threads just loosen the nuts. 100 bucks is nothing compared to having to get another block because of a stripped thread
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lkailburn »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it just hype?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
arp bolts are good for what they are made for. you can reuse them, used them twice already.. good product
</TD></TR></TABLE>
arp bolts are good for what they are made for. you can reuse them, used them twice already.. good product
if you have the money and time to put down some arp, go for it. I wouldnt worry too much other than that since those d-series rods are most likely going to first since they're twigs!
Yes D-series are notorious for lifting under boost. A FEW people get away with 8+psi on stock headbolts, but that is the exception.
I have had the head lift on the last 6 D-series I've dealt with.
With the ARP's, never had one lift again. I will never, ever boost a D without putting ARP's in.
Do yourself a HUGE favor and put them in now since the head is off.
I have had the head lift on the last 6 D-series I've dealt with.
With the ARP's, never had one lift again. I will never, ever boost a D without putting ARP's in.
Do yourself a HUGE favor and put them in now since the head is off.



