So I have a B16 in a crx running 10 psi on a turbonetics T3/T04e .57 63ar. The motor is bone stock, stock headgasket and everything and it is untuned. For fuel it's running 310accell injectors, walbro 255, and a jackson racing fmu. Now I want to turn it up to about 14psi but want to know what I need to do. Obviously a headgasket and headstuds but what else? Maybe a block guard and some hondata? I'm fairly new to the turbo world so I need the most advice I can get. Also what kinda of numbers should this setup be running at 10psi and 14psi.

Thanks in advance.

 

i am kind of suprised it lasted at 10psi untuned, but hondata is a must other than that get a good tuner. Still at 14psi you are starting to push the envelope(not saying it can't be done because i can and has), but plan ahead in case something unforseen happens. It is hard to say what you wil make. Probly 260-300 at that level on a b16 (maybe more).

 

Just like the guy above said, thats wierd how it still help up at 10psi on stock motor. Anything more and your gonna fucken blow your **** up. You need to get it tuned and tuned RIGHT to run anything more than that.

 

It runs beautifully at 10psi and I know I've seen it open up at 11.5-12 psi. But I've had great luck with this setup. So you guys think a good tune and the headgasket and head studs would be ok? What about the block guard?

 

block guard isn't needed. I bet if strapped your car to the dyno right now you would be dissappointed (i might be wrong). the butt dyno is a misleading thing.

 

No no you don't understand, my car feels VERY slow to me. Until I started running people I thought it was a high 13second car, but that's simply because I've never ran any of my cars. But last night I pulled on a 360hp talon, and held with a B20 turbo hatch that went 12.6 @111.

 

you do drive a crx, with 250whp you could go well over 110 traps

 

Why wouldn't a block guard help me out?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99SiRacer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just like the guy above said, thats wierd how it still help up at 10psi on stock motor. </TD></TR></TABLE>

There was a time before Hondata. I'm on a bone stock motor and 10psi with stock injetors running 248whp and have been running it daily for a year and over 15k miles. Believe it or not it won't simply blow up because he doesn't have Hondata. Many people run this setup and have in the past. The fmu he has and larger injectors will run rich and safe at 10psi but yes over that it's risky.

 

Ok, first step is good. Im glad you are already planning to lower the compression w/ a headgasket. When u change the headgasket its smart to do the head studs. Hondata would be a good investment too, it would give you full control over the fuel and timing. But mainly, find a tuner who is experienced w/ big power and "high" boost on stock engines.

 

dont get a block guard instead sleeve it

 

wouldn't he need a new map sensor?

 

I was running 11.5 psi-12psi on the AFC hack for 7months on my b16(stock compression).Car felts damn good, but........ crack #3 and #4 ringlands. I would suggest some type of standalone to have a better control of timing and fuel. I will not boost without one again.Tuning seems to be the key.

 

450cc injectors on stock fuel pressure is maxed out at 10 psi so I wouldn't be suprised if you are running lean, I'm sure it feels great right now but they always feel fast before they go.

 

don't turn it up with out some bigger injectors and a fuel management and some tuning

 

if u want to turn up the boost, lose the fmu get some dsm 450 and pm me or do a search on turboedit



nuff said.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94gsr4dr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">block guard isn't needed. I bet if strapped your car to the dyno right now you would be dissappointed (i might be wrong). the butt dyno is a misleading thing.</TD></TR></TABLE>\

yeah i though my car was fast (untuned turboedit basemap) i turned 190 hp, after tunning i got 265. Tuning ownz

 

10 psi is perfect, I feel the b16a is weak when boosting stock, broke a ringland at 11 psi tuned with hondata. do a headgasket to lower comp, thats the cheap way

 

maybe you ragged your motor out....get an inline pro headgasket and ZDYNE. go for 14 psi but get it tuned professionally

 

Zdyne is completely overkill. Just get hondata, uberdata, chrome, turboedit, or whatever makes you happy, but a good tuner is key.

 

dont get block guard because that is not the weal point in your motor.... your rods will go before your block.

 

i ran 15psi on pump gas with a stock b16 (2mm headgasket) . It was tuned in oct. 03 and is still running strong.

 

My friend actually ran his motor 14.5 PSI (Boost creep) on the stock headgasket with the FMU (12:1) for a few quick bursts throughout the day but it never blew. He got the creeping problem fixed and now it runs at 7 psi very strong. I wouldn't run more than 7 PSI on the FMU.

Maybe you're running really really rich with the FMU...

 

He has 310 injectors and fmu, so he's running really rich.

 

If I were you, I'd pick up some 450cc injectors and go Uberdata. Personally, I wouldn't ever run 10psi on nothing but an FMU. 150+ fuel pressure scares me.

You can find used DSM 450's for pretty cheap (seen them go for like $60 before). If they don't send you a resistor box with it, just pick up some inline resistors (10w, 10ohm) at radio shack and solder them in, or you can just find a resistor box.

Uberdata is pretty much free. All you need is a socketed ECU. Then find someone who knows how to tune.

As far as a map sensor, it would be a good idea to get one for anything over 11psi (what the stock map sensor reads too). I'm running 16psi on a stock map sensor but yeah, I'm upgrading to 3bar soon. Basically the map sensor just stops reading boost after 11psi and will use the last two columns on the fuel/ign maps. So I have it richened/retarded on the last two columns.