CROWER CAMS install, car shuts off.
hey whats up. well today i finally started my LS after installing cams, springs and retainers. the cams were the CROWER stage 2 for the non-vtec motors and the valve springs and retainers were also CROWER.
the car started right up. i let it idle for a bit. the idle was a little rough at first but then it got a little better after i added some more coolant and adjusted the timing a bit. i didnt touch the gas during this process. so i decided to give it a little gas by opening the throttle slightly. car reved up normal but when i let off the throttle, the car dropped rpms and stalled out. i started it back up and did the same thing. but this time i slowly lowered the throttle and it sounded like it wanted to die but it didnt. it's usually when i hit the throttle quick and let off, the rpms drop alot and it will want to shut off. i took it for a short drive to the paint shop to get the car pianted and it didnt shut off once. it did drop the rpms low like around 400-500 when i let off the gas pretty quick. im gonna pick up my car on monday from the paint shop so i will need to tune it.
what should i do. if i can remember, i was told to raise the fuel pressure a bit and tune it with my safc. also should i raise my idle. the idle is around 650-700 rpms. should i bring it up to around 800?
the car started right up. i let it idle for a bit. the idle was a little rough at first but then it got a little better after i added some more coolant and adjusted the timing a bit. i didnt touch the gas during this process. so i decided to give it a little gas by opening the throttle slightly. car reved up normal but when i let off the throttle, the car dropped rpms and stalled out. i started it back up and did the same thing. but this time i slowly lowered the throttle and it sounded like it wanted to die but it didnt. it's usually when i hit the throttle quick and let off, the rpms drop alot and it will want to shut off. i took it for a short drive to the paint shop to get the car pianted and it didnt shut off once. it did drop the rpms low like around 400-500 when i let off the gas pretty quick. im gonna pick up my car on monday from the paint shop so i will need to tune it.
what should i do. if i can remember, i was told to raise the fuel pressure a bit and tune it with my safc. also should i raise my idle. the idle is around 650-700 rpms. should i bring it up to around 800?
you need to raise the fpr to around 43, this is exactly what happend to my car too.. while putting on my crower cams,,etc. and running it.. and then i advance the ignition timming and it ran fine without ever dieing on me, (i got 404's) idles pretty good, set my idle at around 900rpms. weeks later I finnally got it tunned and im not sure where they set the ignition but yea, it's prolly near retard and it's happening all to me again.. so it's going down to the shop again.. you might want ot advance the timing just a bit so it wont die on you.. raise the fpr.. hope i helped a lil bit.. but good luck on it
PS..
u also got to break in the cams, let it idle for a good 20-25mins...
PS..
u also got to break in the cams, let it idle for a good 20-25mins...
thanks alot man. i appreciate the info. when i started the car up i let it idle for a good 15-20 minutes. as soon as i started the car up u could hear the difference between the stock cams and the crower cams. sounded pretty aggressive. i cant wait to floor the car....but i gotta wait a coupe hundred miles. im gonna break in the cams for about 200 miles driving it under 3k rpms then i'll open it up.
but i have a question about the fuel pressure. do i raise the fuel pressure with the vacuum still attached to the fpr or do i take it out? is ur 43 psi with the vacuum hose attached or with it removed. right now my fuel pressure is set at 42 psi with the vacuum off. it's at about 34psi with the vacuum on.
my timing is at 16 degrees right now. i think i need to advance it a little more, maybe about 18 degrees.
i need to go get me a B&M fpr now. thanks again bro
but i have a question about the fuel pressure. do i raise the fuel pressure with the vacuum still attached to the fpr or do i take it out? is ur 43 psi with the vacuum hose attached or with it removed. right now my fuel pressure is set at 42 psi with the vacuum off. it's at about 34psi with the vacuum on.
my timing is at 16 degrees right now. i think i need to advance it a little more, maybe about 18 degrees.
i need to go get me a B&M fpr now. thanks again bro
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted k20 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but i gotta wait a coupe hundred miles. im gonna break in the cams for about 200 miles driving it under 3k rpms then i'll open it up.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
No need to "break-in" cams.
1. Install cams.
2. Idle car at 1500-2000 RPM for 15-20 minutes.
3. Beat on accordingly.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
No need to "break-in" cams.
1. Install cams.
2. Idle car at 1500-2000 RPM for 15-20 minutes.
3. Beat on accordingly.
well i placed all the rockers in the same place that i removed them from. i checked the valve lash on the first cylinder and they were within specs. i didnt get a chance to do the other cylinders. i'll probably do it on friday. i had to rush my car to the paint shop because the car was late for the appointment. i just baught a B&M fpr and will be tuning the car with it on friday. i'll do a valve lash adjustment on all cylinders too.
so i dont need to break the cams in???? i thought u need to break em in for a good 100 miles?
so i dont need to break the cams in???? i thought u need to break em in for a good 100 miles?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted k20 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
so i dont need to break the cams in???? i thought u need to break em in for a good 100 miles?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No need to do this, but if it makes you feel better, by all means go for it. Either way, you aren't going to hurt a thing.
Cams aren't like piston rings, or a clutch. There is nothing to be broken in.
so i dont need to break the cams in???? i thought u need to break em in for a good 100 miles?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No need to do this, but if it makes you feel better, by all means go for it. Either way, you aren't going to hurt a thing.
Cams aren't like piston rings, or a clutch. There is nothing to be broken in.
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My setup:
AEM cold air intake
TSUDO 4-1 header
TSUDO full catback (a little less that 2 1/2" piping)
MSD 6A ignition, Blaster 2 coil, NGK plugs and wires
APEX-i SAFC (untuned)
CROWER 62403 cams with CROWER valvsprings/retainers
SKUNK2 adj. cam gears (set to 0 degrees on Intake and exhaust)
ignition timing is set at 16 degrees, no p/s A/C belts
AEM cold air intake
TSUDO 4-1 header
TSUDO full catback (a little less that 2 1/2" piping)
MSD 6A ignition, Blaster 2 coil, NGK plugs and wires
APEX-i SAFC (untuned)
CROWER 62403 cams with CROWER valvsprings/retainers
SKUNK2 adj. cam gears (set to 0 degrees on Intake and exhaust)
ignition timing is set at 16 degrees, no p/s A/C belts
yeah wihtout tunning my car, when i first got it out the street i was disapointed flooring it. after tunning and getting everything fixxx... it was AWSOME, crower 404's kicks in hard at around 4-5 rpms!!
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