1. I have a '96 USDM GSR engine swapped into my '93 Civic hatch (DX). I'm experiencing unusually long start-up times EVEN when I let my 255lph high-pressure pump prime. The engine cranks over for far longer then it should. When it finally does fire up, it doesn't come to life nicely; instead, it kinda sputters up to idle. The weird thing is that it doesn't do this all of the time but it does most of the time. When it fires right up, it seems to run better (more about this in a sec., read on) The engine has great compression and has recently had the following brand new tune-up/other parts installed: Walbro fuel pump, fuel filter, air filter (CAI), distributor rotor, plugs, and PCV valve. I have NOT replaced the wires or distributor cap, which are both original with about 100, 000km. I've switched the ECU so I know it has nothing to do with that.

2. I'm also experiencing a lack of power. Some days the engine pulls hard like it should and other days it feels like ****, especially below 4000 rpm. It feels like there's no torque and almost as though the car jerks back and forth upon acceleration under normal driving conditions. This is much more noticeable when the engine is HOT or when its warm out. I know temp affects how an engine operates, however this is much more than that.

I would imagine that I have fuel and I have air, so I'm thinking its an ignition problem?? It seems as though start-up and engine performance are related when it comes to this problem b/c the car runs well when it fires up properly. This is one of those intermittent, pain-in-the-*** problems!

 

Are you running an adjustable fuel pressure regulator? If so what's it set at? Similar starting problems can be experienced if the car is running rich or even to lean. Lack of power in the low end is a good indication of this as well. I would recomend you change your distributor cap as 100,000km is a lot of mileage for any cap and honda caps aren't known for their longevity. Damp rainy weather usually exposes a bad cap and wires pretty quick.

 

I'm NOT running an adjustable FPR, but I was wondering if that could have something to do with my problem(s). I didn't think that a faulty FPR would cause start-up trouble. btw, my car doesn't seem to run any worst in the rain or when its damp. Like I said, it gets bad when the engine is hot. Thanks for the help, it is much appreciated. PLEASE HELP ME GUYS!!

 

Have you checked your ignition timing lately? That would be another good place to look and can cause similar problems to what you said.

 

When the rotor button was replaced was the retaining screw put back in it? I had very similar symptoms and that is what it turned out to be. Running the walbro pump without an adjustable fpr will cause high fuel pressure which causes the car to run rich. It could be a combination of a couple of things that are compounding your problem.

 

what is your fuel pressure at?

when i had my walbro fuel pump put in, the fuel pressure at idle went up to almost 60psi.

you could be running very rich.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaeg8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what is your fuel pressure at?

when i had my walbro fuel pump put in, the fuel pressure at idle went up to almost 60psi.

you could be running very rich.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It shouldn't be fuel pressure because he still has the stock regulator on it and that just means it'll divert more fuel back to the tank to keep the pressure at the stock setting. If you changed your pump and the psi went up that much with a stock regulator I would say there was something wrong with it.

 

I had this problem with my GSR fuel pump too, so it has nothing to do with the new Walbro. I'm wondering if my problem is a malfunctioning FPR?? btw, when I replaced the distributor rotor I was sure to put the retaining screw back in and tighten it. I'll double check just to be safe. Again, seems like the problem is worst and the engine lacks (more) power when it is HOT, which could be the result of a lean operating condition. When an engine is running lean, it creates more heat and the ECU responds accordingly so I don't know if this is a problem in itself or something to do with the unknown cause of my long start-ups. I don't even know if its running lean for sure. It seems to pull harder up top, relatively speaking, then below 4000rpm when its acting up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00Red_SiR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have you checked your ignition timing lately? That would be another good place to look and can cause similar problems to what you said.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I'm gonna check the ignition timing, but I don't think thats what's causing my problems. Remember, SOMETIMES my car starts and runs properly. Although it does act up more often than not, I don't think it could be adavanced/ retarded ignition timing because that would affect the engine ALL the time. Thanks again for the help guys! Sooner or later we'll figure this out.

p.s. It seems like the engine starts and runs properly ONLY when it has been sitting for a period of time prior to use. eg.-&gt; Usually, a good start will only occur after the car has sat overnight in cool, dry weather. Good starts are hardly ever observed after extended periods of driving or when the engine is warmed up to anywhere near/at operating temperature.

 

Re: rich a/f mixture: I have an 'open' exhaust system and have seen absolutely NO black or grey smoke whatsoever. It burns very clean whether I'm at high rpms, WOT, in-between shifts, etc. If I was running extremely rich, I think I'd at least smell it but it seems normal. My friend watched me make numerous passes at the track and never once saw any smoke.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00Red_SiR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you running an adjustable fuel pressure regulator? If so what's it set at? Similar starting problems can be experienced if the car is running rich or even to lean. Lack of power in the low end is a good indication of this as well. I would recomend you change your distributor cap as 100,000km is a lot of mileage for any cap and honda caps aren't known for their longevity. Damp rainy weather usually exposes a bad cap and wires pretty quick.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

bump

 

Just wanted to add the following info:

My problem (lack of power, hesitation(NO misfiring)/surging) seems to be more noticeable when I drive around town and keep my shifts relatively low (rpm and throttle). After I drive around like this for a while and then punch it, it is slower than normal, however, immediately after I start driving it hard, it seems to be better. Although, this could just be because the problem isn't as noticeable up top. It doesn't pull as hard as it should up top (high RPM, WOT) but this isn't as bad as the lack of power driving around town. Feels like I have no torque and I know I have plenty with a GSR swap in a light hatch! Again, any help would be much appreciated.

 

Could this have something to do with a bad ground?

 

You might have some sort of electrical component that starts acting flaky when it gets hot. Sounds like you might be getting lower intensity spark when your car is hot.... Can you get/borrow a known good distributor to check that?

You don't have a Check Engine Light (CEL) do you?

 

Nope, no CEL.

 

I'm wondering if it could be a faulty distributor cap or coil?? I'm planning on installing an msd cap and external coil so we'll see what happens.